Question:

I know that nobody listens to AM radio anymore, but when I try to tune in AM to listen to a baseball game, all of the stations have horrible static, interference.  Didn’t always have this problem but now I do. Anybody out there experienced the same thing and have an idea as how to fix? FM & CD are perfectly clear.  This is the standard AM/FM/CD unit that came in the 2000 323i sedan.

Response:

Unfortunately, AM radios pick up all kinds of interference from you engine. The two main culprits are the ignition system and the charging system. The alternator will cause a whine and the ignition will produce a rapid ticking sound. Both increase with engine speed. When did the problem first occur? Had you done any maintenance right before the problem started? If so, things like spark plugs & ignition wires may be causing your noise. Most European cars use ignition wires with resistors built into the ends. Check resistance with an Ohm meter and compare to the spec on the wire end. Old wires may have degraded resistors or even new low quality wires can cause a noise problem. If your problem is truly just static, the problem may be with the radio/antenna system. Make sure the antenna is fully extended and securely connected and the head unit is properly grounded. Good luck R. Scott McKernon Store Manager Olympic Auto Parts 9136 Gaither Rd Gaithersburg, MD 20874 1-800-472-9360 www.olyparts.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I know that nobody listens to AM radio anymore, but when I try to tune in AM > to listen to a baseball game, all of the stations have horrible static, > interference.  Didn’t always have this problem but now I do. > Anybody out there experienced the same thing and have an idea as how to fix? > FM & CD are perfectly clear.  This is the standard AM/FM/CD unit that came > in the 2000 323i sedan.

Response:

I’m taking me new M5 in for service with the same complaint. The reception of the"All News" AM station that I like to listen to is soooooooo bad that it fades and crackles when I drive down into a small valley in the road. It was way better on my 87 325, and in any of the 4 other cars I have. I think the problem is the crappy imbedded antenna – hopefully there is something wrong with it and not something that can’t be fixed. I’ll post again when I get some results.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I know that nobody listens to AM radio anymore, but when I try to tune in AM > to listen to a baseball game, all of the stations have horrible static, > interference.  Didn’t always have this problem but now I do. > Anybody out there experienced the same thing and have an idea as how to fix? > FM & CD are perfectly clear.  This is the standard AM/FM/CD unit that came > in the 2000 323i sedan.

Response:

All true but not likely in this case. Engine RFI is very different from reception quality, and any vehicle built in the last 10-15 years will have this problem under control (unless something was changed). Failure is unlikely, as resistor failure will fail on the side of safety, meaning that there would be NO signal (or power or RF) if the resistor failed. The most common problem is with the nature of the in-glass antennae and the related signal path/amps/etc.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Unfortunately, AM radios pick up all kinds of interference from you engine. > The two > main culprits are the ignition system and the charging system. The > alternator will cause > a whine and the ignition will produce a rapid ticking sound. Both increase > with engine > speed. > When did the problem first occur? Had you done any maintenance right before > the > problem started? If so, things like spark plugs & ignition wires may be > causing your noise. > Most European cars use ignition wires with resistors built into the ends. > Check resistance > with an Ohm meter and compare to the spec on the wire end. Old wires may > have degraded > resistors or even new low quality wires can cause a noise problem. > If your problem is truly just static, the problem may be with the > radio/antenna system. > Make sure the antenna is fully extended and securely connected and the head > unit is properly > grounded. > Good luck > R. Scott McKernon > Store Manager > Olympic Auto Parts > 9136 Gaither Rd > Gaithersburg, MD 20874 > 1-800-472-9360 > www.olyparts.com > I know that nobody listens to AM radio anymore, but when I try to tune in > AM > to listen to a baseball game, all of the stations have horrible static, > interference.  Didn’t always have this problem but now I do. > Anybody out there experienced the same thing and have an idea as how to > fix? > FM & CD are perfectly clear.  This is the standard AM/FM/CD unit that came > in the 2000 323i sedan.

Response:

> I know that nobody listens to AM radio anymore, but when I try to tune in AM > to listen to a baseball game, all of the stations have horrible static, > interference.  Didn’t always have this problem but now I do. > Anybody out there experienced the same thing and have an idea as how to fix? > FM & CD are perfectly clear.  This is the standard AM/FM/CD unit that came > in the 2000 323i sedan.

Antenna Pre-Amp.  Or, a crack in the diversity antenna.  I unfortunately had a similar problem with my ‘01 330xi’s am/fm/cd; fix was a new unit (under warranty, thank goodness.) This is a very common problem with BMW’s radio. BTW, have you ever noticed that the AST/DSC interferes with the AM? This won’t change even if you get your problem fixed. Floyd

Response:

> I know that nobody listens to AM radio anymore, but when I try to tune in AM > to listen to a baseball game, all of the stations have horrible static, > interference.  Didn’t always have this problem but now I do. > Anybody out there experienced the same thing and have an idea as how to fix? > FM & CD are perfectly clear.  This is the standard AM/FM/CD unit that came > in the 2000 323i sedan.

I had a problem with the antenna connector at the radio.  The center conductor wasn’t connected, just close.  Enough for FM to couple across, but not AM. I just had to put a new connector on.     John

Response:

> I know that nobody listens to AM radio anymore, but when I try to tune in AM > to listen to a baseball game, all of the stations have horrible static, > interference.  Didn’t always have this problem but now I do. > Anybody out there experienced the same thing and have an idea as how to fix? > FM & CD are perfectly clear.  This is the standard AM/FM/CD unit that came > in the 2000 323i sedan.

RFI interference was apparently a common problem on early E46 models.  The fix for my ‘99 328i was a warranty replacement of the antenna amp.  However, my problem was moderate interference – a rev related whine which was noticeable only at low engine speeds as when idling at a stoplight.  Good luck! Tom

Response:

I learned the hard way that tinting a window that contains the antenna can seriously limit the antenna’s performance. Most commercial films are metallic, and will affect AM radio. I switched from metallic to non-metallic and the results were improved reception. I live in a rural area and our AM reception is poor to begin with, but with the metallic film is was next to nothing.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I know that nobody listens to AM radio anymore, but when I try to tune in AM > to listen to a baseball game, all of the stations have horrible static, > interference.  Didn’t always have this problem but now I do. > Anybody out there experienced the same thing and have an idea as how to fix? > FM & CD are perfectly clear.  This is the standard AM/FM/CD unit that came > in the 2000 323i sedan.

Response:

> I know that nobody listens to AM radio anymore, but when I try to tune > in AM to listen to a baseball game, all of the stations have horrible > static, interference.  Didn’t always have this problem but now I do. > Anybody out there experienced the same thing and have an idea as how > to fix? > FM & CD are perfectly clear.  This is the standard AM/FM/CD unit that > came in the 2000 323i sedan.

If you’re still having this problem, I had similar problem on my 99 323i,   and apparently it’s quite common for our cars. The noise is sensitive to speed; If you’re going slowly through a low reception area, you’ll hear click-click-click sound through the radio, the faster you go, the quicker the clicks become. if you’re going >30mph, the clicks become a constant whine. If that’s the problem you’re getting, the fix is really simple. There’s an antenna signal amplifier behind the panel of the driver-side, rear column. just pop out that cover, check all the connections to make sure they are TIGHT. Use pliers to screw in the coax cable if you have to. There’s a nice HOW-TO page on the web describing this problem with pictures and everything. I don’t have the link, but you can search for it. Good luck.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I know that nobody listens to AM radio anymore, but when I try to tune > in AM to listen to a baseball game, all of the stations have horrible > static, interference.  Didn’t always have this problem but now I do. > Anybody out there experienced the same thing and have an idea as how > to fix? > FM & CD are perfectly clear.  This is the standard AM/FM/CD unit that > came in the 2000 323i sedan. > If you’re still having this problem, I had similar problem on my 99 323i, > and apparently it’s quite common for our cars. > The noise is sensitive to speed; If you’re going slowly through a low > reception area, you’ll hear click-click-click sound through the radio, > the faster you go, the quicker the clicks become. if you’re going >30mph, > the clicks become a constant whine. > If that’s the problem you’re getting, the fix is really simple. > There’s an antenna signal amplifier behind the panel of the driver-side, > rear column. just pop out that cover, check all the connections to make > sure they are TIGHT. Use pliers to screw in the coax cable if you have > to. > There’s a nice HOW-TO page on the web describing this problem with > pictures and everything. I don’t have the link, but you can search for > it. Good luck.

Same problem here with a new 03′ M5. Exactly your situation. Problem is with window tinting. If you have a tint, that’s the cause. Only cure is to put on an outside mounted antenna (yuk). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> I know that nobody listens to AM radio anymore, but when I try to tune >> in AM to listen to a baseball game, all of the stations have horrible >> static, interference.  Didn’t always have this problem but now I do. >> Anybody out there experienced the same thing and have an idea as how >> to fix? >> FM & CD are perfectly clear.  This is the standard AM/FM/CD unit that >> came in the 2000 323i sedan. > If you’re still having this problem, I had similar problem on my 99 > 323i, and apparently it’s quite common for our cars. > The noise is sensitive to speed; If you’re going slowly through a low > reception area, you’ll hear click-click-click sound through the radio, > the faster you go, the quicker the clicks become. if you’re going > >30mph, the clicks become a constant whine. > If that’s the problem you’re getting, the fix is really simple. > There’s an antenna signal amplifier behind the panel of the > driver-side, rear column. just pop out that cover, check all the > connections to make sure they are TIGHT. Use pliers to screw in the > coax cable if you have to. > There’s a nice HOW-TO page on the web describing this problem with > pictures and everything. I don’t have the link, but you can search for > it. Good luck. > Same problem here with a new 03′ M5. Exactly your situation. Problem is > with window tinting. If you have a tint, that’s the cause. Only cure is > to put on an outside mounted antenna (yuk).

Could also be cause by a bad sprk plug wire or a faulty spark plug. THe nosie you describe sppears to be ingnition noise. — Panzer

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>I know that nobody listens to AM radio anymore, but when I try to tune >>>in AM to listen to a baseball game, all of the stations have horrible >>>static, interference.  Didn’t always have this problem but now I do. >>>Anybody out there experienced the same thing and have an idea as how >>>to fix? >>>FM & CD are perfectly clear.  This is the standard AM/FM/CD unit that >>>came in the 2000 323i sedan. >>If you’re still having this problem, I had similar problem on my 99 >>323i, and apparently it’s quite common for our cars. >>The noise is sensitive to speed; If you’re going slowly through a low >>reception area, you’ll hear click-click-click sound through the radio, >>the faster you go, the quicker the clicks become. if you’re going >>>30mph, the clicks become a constant whine. >>If that’s the problem you’re getting, the fix is really simple. >>There’s an antenna signal amplifier behind the panel of the >>driver-side, rear column. just pop out that cover, check all the >>connections to make sure they are TIGHT. Use pliers to screw in the >>coax cable if you have to. >>There’s a nice HOW-TO page on the web describing this problem with >>pictures and everything. I don’t have the link, but you can search for >>it. Good luck. >Same problem here with a new 03′ M5. Exactly your situation. Problem is >with window tinting. If you have a tint, that’s the cause. Only cure is >to put on an outside mounted antenna (yuk). > Could also be cause by a bad sprk plug wire or a faulty spark plug. THe > nosie you describe sppears to be ingnition noise.

None of the cars being discussed in this thread have spark plug wires. -Fred W

Response:

Ditto in my ‘95 540 The interference seems directly related to electrical interference. For example, if I have and data showing in my OBC display, the interference is worse. And the interference changes with engine RPM. My guess is that something in the radio or antenna system is not grounded properly, but I’ve yet to go looking for it. Suggestions or alternate theories welcomed… –Mike (remove the teeth to send me a reply.)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>>I know that nobody listens to AM radio anymore, but when I try to tune >>>>in AM to listen to a baseball game, all of the stations have horrible >>>>static, interference.  Didn’t always have this problem but now I do. >>>>Anybody out there experienced the same thing and have an idea as how >>>>to fix? >>>>FM & CD are perfectly clear.  This is the standard AM/FM/CD unit that >>>>came in the 2000 323i sedan. >>>If you’re still having this problem, I had similar problem on my 99 >>>323i, and apparently it’s quite common for our cars. >>>The noise is sensitive to speed; If you’re going slowly through a low >>>reception area, you’ll hear click-click-click sound through the radio, >>>the faster you go, the quicker the clicks become. if you’re going >>>>30mph, the clicks become a constant whine. >>>If that’s the problem you’re getting, the fix is really simple. >>>There’s an antenna signal amplifier behind the panel of the >>>driver-side, rear column. just pop out that cover, check all the >>>connections to make sure they are TIGHT. Use pliers to screw in the >>>coax cable if you have to. >>>There’s a nice HOW-TO page on the web describing this problem with >>>pictures and everything. I don’t have the link, but you can search for >>>it. Good luck. >>Same problem here with a new 03′ M5. Exactly your situation. Problem is >>with window tinting. If you have a tint, that’s the cause. Only cure is >>to put on an outside mounted antenna (yuk). > Could also be cause by a bad sprk plug wire or a faulty spark plug. THe > nosie you describe sppears to be ingnition noise. > None of the cars being discussed in this thread have spark plug wires. > -Fred W

Response:

> None of the cars being discussed in this thread have spark plug wires. > -Fred W

I see, then these are diesels and therefore no spark plugs ?? Just checking I assume if they have spark plugs they must connect to the ignition in some manner. Could you enlighten me as to how it is done ? I have never seen the engine in anything later than an E30. — Panzer

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->None of the cars being discussed in this thread have spark plug wires. >-Fred W > I see, then these are diesels and therefore no spark plugs ?? Just checking > I assume if they have spark plugs they must connect to the ignition in > some manner. Could you enlighten me as to how it is done ? I have never seen > the engine in anything later than an E30.

I said that hey do not have spark plug *wires*. They have the "coil on plug" configuration found in (almost) every *modern* gasoline engine design. <http://autorepair.about.com/library/glossary/bldef-110a.htm> -Fred W

Response:

> I said that hey do not have spark plug *wires*. > They have the "coil on plug" configuration found in (almost) every > *modern* gasoline engine design. ><http://autorepair.about.com/library/glossary/bldef-110a.htm> > -Fred W

Well well interesting.  Thanks for the links However it could I suppose be a faulty COP or plug itself. Remember the first radio transmitters were nithing more than a spark plug !! Any was just a suggestion trying to be helpful. — Panzer

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I said that hey do not have spark plug *wires*. >They have the "coil on plug" configuration found in (almost) every >*modern* gasoline engine design. ><http://autorepair.about.com/library/glossary/bldef-110a.htm> >-Fred W > Well well interesting.  Thanks for the links However it could I suppose be > a faulty COP or plug itself. Remember the first radio transmitters were > nithing more than a spark plug !!

I agree. > Any was just a suggestion trying to be helpful.

Ditto here.  I would hate for the OP to go into his mechanic and suggest he replace the spark plug wires.  He would surely appear mechanically inept and a likely target to be ripped off. -Fred W

Response:

Yeah, and it could be a tumor……AM reception on BMW’s has allways been horrible.  Some are better than others, but none are great.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>I said that hey do not have spark plug *wires*. >>They have the "coil on plug" configuration found in (almost) every >>*modern* gasoline engine design. >><http://autorepair.about.com/library/glossary/bldef-110a.htm> >>-Fred W > Well well interesting.  Thanks for the links However it could I suppose be > a faulty COP or plug itself. Remember the first radio transmitters were > nithing more than a spark plug !! > I agree. > Any was just a suggestion trying to be helpful. > Ditto here.  I would hate for the OP to go into his mechanic and suggest > he replace the spark plug wires.  He would surely appear mechanically > inept and a likely target to be ripped off. > -Fred W

Response:

[posted and mailed] > Yeah, and it could be a tumor……AM reception on BMW’s has allways been > horrible.  Some are better than others, but none are great.

 I have never found that to be the case, at least in the models I have been fortunate to drive. But it would hardly count as vast experience, because BMW’s are not what you might call popular around here. Nearest dealer is 260 miles away. — Panzer

Response:

> [posted and mailed]

> Yeah, and it could be a tumor……AM reception on BMW’s has allways been > horrible.  Some are better than others, but none are great. >  I have never found that to be the case, at least in the models I have been > fortunate to drive. But it would hardly count as vast experience, because > BMW’s are not what you might call popular around here. Nearest dealer is 260 > miles away.

I have owned numerous BMW’s and to my experience it is a fact that AM reception has been atrocious for about the last 15 years. Prior to that I don’t remember the same problems. The new cars, E60 and E65 both have superb AM reception though.

Response:

Question:

If you suffer from the squeaky rear window on your S10 Blazer/Jimmy (I’ve been using the tape the striker method for the past several years but that wears out quick.) then check out this old post I found on S10Forum.com: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-38848.html I just ordered the $6 part to fix it. I might hug someone if it works. Just a FYI for you guys. John 1989 S10 Blazer 4.3 210K

Response:

some paved roads and all back roads…91S-10. Thought I "fixed" it by adjusting the rubber stop inside the latch, but all that did was make it harder to close (it did reduce the amount of I’ve now split the metal on the rear hatch….it’s only a 1/2 inch crack, but just give a few more years  D’Oh

Response:

My final solution for that was to remove the tire to the cargo area. Then I removed the tire hanger. I had rust damage to repair and bolt holes to fill, but it wasn’t too bad. If you don’t want to do that, I once wrapped electrical tape around the tube that contacts the latch. It helped and it didn’t wear out of as fast as the tape I used on the window striker.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > some paved roads and all back roads…91S-10. > Thought I "fixed" it by adjusting the rubber stop inside the latch, but > all that did was make it harder to close (it did reduce the amount of > I’ve now split the metal on the rear hatch….it’s only a 1/2 inch > crack, but just give a few more years  D’Oh

Response:

Never had any problems with the window larch, although I’ve put foam weatherstriping around the window and tailgate to keep off-road dust out Have already absconded with a replacement spare tire latch from the local junkyard, one that doesn’t have a groove beaten into it yet……I’ll probably end up replacing the tail gate if the crack gets more than a few inches long

Response:

I put tape on it and stuff a napkin or cleanex in the opening where the latch is.  I don’t hear anything from it fro at least 6-8 months at a time.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If you suffer from the squeaky rear window on your S10 Blazer/Jimmy (I’ve > been using the tape the striker method for the past several years but that > wears out quick.) then check out this old post I found on S10Forum.com: > http://www.s10forum.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-38848.html > I just ordered the $6 part to fix it. I might hug someone if it works. Just > a FYI for you guys. > John > 1989 S10 Blazer 4.3 > 210K

Response:

Question:

>The Horn Works fine.

My guess is still the clockspring.

Response:

> >The Horn Works fine. > My guess is still the clockspring.

Mine too.  I’m not familiar with the minivans, but on most Chrysler vehicles, there are at least two separate circuits (pairs of wires) in the clockspring. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

recall?? check with your local dealer it might be covered – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

possible clockspring unit in the steering wheel. some are covered by a recall. check with chrysler.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> recall?? check with your local dealer it might be covered > My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

You were right it was the F%$*&$$$ Clock Spring.  What the heck is a clockspring anyways?  I would expect for $200 it is pretty nice little gizmo.  And no it was not under the recall – that was only for up to 1998 models (I see how well they fixed it though …). Now I just need to figure out what the loud noise is when I first lower the drivers window. Karl

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

The clockspring allows steering wheel mounted controls to maintain their electrical connection while turning the steering wheel.  The clockspring is around $80, but the labor is probably about 1.5 hours.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You were right it was the F%$*&$$$ Clock Spring.  What the heck is a > clockspring anyways?  I would expect for $200 it is pretty nice little > gizmo.  And no it was not under the recall – that was only for up to 1998 > models (I see how well they fixed it though …). > Now I just need to figure out what the loud noise is when I first lower the > drivers window. > Karl > My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

> You were right it was the F%$*&$$$ Clock Spring.  What the heck is a > clockspring anyways?

It’s the device that allows the steering wheel to rotate through its full travel while maintaining constant and *reliable* integrity of the power, ground and signal wires for all electrical devices contained within the steering wheel: The horn switches, the cruise control switches, the airbag.

Response:

My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any ideas? Karl

Response:

>My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise >control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and >re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any >ideas?

Does your horn work? Sounds like your clockspring on which there may be a recall. I say may as 2000 model year may not. You can check with your dealer or go to "www. chrysler.com" or "www.dodge.com", click the "For Owners" on the menu, then follow directions by adding your VIN. from that you will learn which recalls have not been performed on your vehicle. RP

Response:

The Horn Works fine.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise >control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and >re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any >ideas? > Does your horn work? Sounds like your clockspring on which there may be a > recall. I say may as 2000 model year may not. You can check with your dealer or > go to "www. chrysler.com" or "www.dodge.com", click the "For Owners" on the > menu, then follow directions by adding your VIN. from that you will learn which > recalls have not been performed on your vehicle. > RP

Response:

My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any ideas? Karl

Response:

>My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise >control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and >re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any >ideas?

Does your horn work? Sounds like your clockspring on which there may be a recall. I say may as 2000 model year may not. You can check with your dealer or go to "www. chrysler.com" or "www.dodge.com", click the "For Owners" on the menu, then follow directions by adding your VIN. from that you will learn which recalls have not been performed on your vehicle. RP

Response:

The Horn Works fine.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise >control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and >re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any >ideas? > Does your horn work? Sounds like your clockspring on which there may be a > recall. I say may as 2000 model year may not. You can check with your dealer or > go to "www. chrysler.com" or "www.dodge.com", click the "For Owners" on the > menu, then follow directions by adding your VIN. from that you will learn which > recalls have not been performed on your vehicle. > RP

Response:

>The Horn Works fine.

My guess is still the clockspring.

Response:

> >The Horn Works fine. > My guess is still the clockspring.

Mine too.  I’m not familiar with the minivans, but on most Chrysler vehicles, there are at least two separate circuits (pairs of wires) in the clockspring. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

recall?? check with your local dealer it might be covered – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

possible clockspring unit in the steering wheel. some are covered by a recall. check with chrysler.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> recall?? check with your local dealer it might be covered > My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

You were right it was the F%$*&$$$ Clock Spring.  What the heck is a clockspring anyways?  I would expect for $200 it is pretty nice little gizmo.  And no it was not under the recall – that was only for up to 1998 models (I see how well they fixed it though …). Now I just need to figure out what the loud noise is when I first lower the drivers window. Karl

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

The clockspring allows steering wheel mounted controls to maintain their electrical connection while turning the steering wheel.  The clockspring is around $80, but the labor is probably about 1.5 hours.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You were right it was the F%$*&$$$ Clock Spring.  What the heck is a > clockspring anyways?  I would expect for $200 it is pretty nice little > gizmo.  And no it was not under the recall – that was only for up to 1998 > models (I see how well they fixed it though …). > Now I just need to figure out what the loud noise is when I first lower the > drivers window. > Karl > My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

> You were right it was the F%$*&$$$ Clock Spring.  What the heck is a > clockspring anyways?

It’s the device that allows the steering wheel to rotate through its full travel while maintaining constant and *reliable* integrity of the power, ground and signal wires for all electrical devices contained within the steering wheel: The horn switches, the cruise control switches, the airbag.

Response:

Question:

Hi all, 1. I was wondering if any benefit could be had if you heated between double pane glass( when needed say at night) with a small nichrom wire? Maybe 20 watts? or so? Would it help the r-value any? if so what kind of btu at say 5500 degree days? Or would it be a waste of energy?. What would the effective r value through it? 2.  Also wondering say a custom made window with a 4" space sides and bottom black, 1 gallon of water anti freeze mix at the bottom(no air exchanges of course) 2"or so what would be the btu loss through it ? (window say 3 sq feetx4" thick for 1 cubic foot inside?) Looking for formula and ideas Thanks in advance ! Ed

Response:

> Hi all, > 1. I was wondering if any benefit could be had if you heated between double > pane glass( when needed say at night) with a small nichrom wire? Maybe 20 > watts? or so? > Would it help the r-value any? if so what kind of btu at say 5500 degree days? > Or would it be a waste of energy?. What would the effective r value through it?

It would be a waste of energy. The laws of thermodynamic say you want the heat where you actually want to stay warm. The heat generated by the nichrome wire would more quickly be lost to the outside environment than if it were placed fully inside your dwelling. > 2.  Also wondering say a custom made window with a 4" space sides and bottom > black, 1 gallon of water anti freeze mix at the bottom(no air exchanges of > course) > 2"or so what would be the btu loss through it ? (window say 3 sq feetx4" thick > for 1 cubic foot inside?) > Looking for formula and ideas > Thanks in advance !

Also not a good idea. A vacuum has zero conductivity. Air has a little more. Liquids have a lot more. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Ed

Response:

>…A vacuum has zero conductivity.

Not really. The radiation conductance is about R1 at 70 F, with ordinary materials. Linearized, Gr = 4sT^3, where s is the Stefan-Boltzman constant and T is the absolute mean temp. For instance, 70 F indoors and 30 F outdoors makes T = 460+50 = 510 R, so Gr = 4×0.1714×10^-8×510^3 = 0.91 Btu/h-F-ft^2. Nick

Response:

>…A vacuum has zero conductivity. > Not really. The radiation conductance is about R1 at 70 F, > with ordinary materials. Linearized, Gr = 4sT^3, where s is > the Stefan-Boltzman constant and T is the absolute mean temp. > For instance, 70 F indoors and 30 F outdoors makes T = 460+50 > = 510 R, so Gr = 4×0.1714×10^-8×510^3 = 0.91 Btu/h-F-ft^2. > Nick

Absolutely true. I was referring to conductivity through thermal diffusion.

Response:

I guess what i’m really looking for is the btu through a window that is heated on its interior.   Would’nt it block the interior btu’s through it? While loosing a smaller amount?. One configuration would be with a small (hopefully) electric heater. The other would be passive with black surfaces(4"?) on the bottom and sides with say 1 gallon of water/antifreeze under the bottom black surface. ? If interior temp and inner side of unit is 70f then no btu loss right? Looking forward to the classic btu formulas of this group Thanks in advance!!!!! Ed – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >1. I was wondering if any benefit could be had if you heated between double >pane glass( when needed say at night) with a small nichrom wire? Maybe 20 >watts? or so? >Would it help the r-value any? if so what kind of btu at say 5500 degree >days? >Or would it be a waste of energy?. What would the effective r value through >it? >2.  Also wondering say a custom made window with a 4" space sides and bottom >black, 1 gallon of water anti freeze mix at the bottom(no air exchanges of >course) >2"or so what would be the btu loss through it ? (window say 3 sq feetx4" >thick >for 1 cubic foot inside?) >Looking for formula and ideas >Thanks in advance ! >Ed

Response:

> I guess what i’m really looking for is the btu through a window that is heated > on its interior.   Would’nt it block the interior btu’s > through it? While loosing a smaller amount?.

Just putting a heater inside the window won’t block the heat loss through the window. It just introduces another source of heat. You would do better to try to make the window less able to let heat flow through it. One method is to add insulation in the form of a thermal drape or insulation panels in the form of shutters. Another method would be to add something that reflects IR light such as aluminum foil. Many thermal drapes combine the two ideas and have an insulating layer and reflective layer(s). Anthony

Response:

But if the inside of the glass is silvered you cut the radiation figure dramatically. I don’t know if there is any practical way to put a partial silvering (or aluminizing) on the inside glass face and remove it when you want to see out more clearly. Sounds something like an internal window shade.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->…A vacuum has zero conductivity. > Not really. The radiation conductance is about R1 at 70 F, > with ordinary materials. Linearized, Gr = 4sT^3, where s is > the Stefan-Boltzman constant and T is the absolute mean temp. > For instance, 70 F indoors and 30 F outdoors makes T = 460+50 > = 510 R, so Gr = 4×0.1714×10^-8×510^3 = 0.91 Btu/h-F-ft^2. > Nick

Response:

If a window (in this case really a clear passive greenhouse) is say 70f  and the house temp is 70f then what heat loss? 70F through 70F ? isnt it 0 heat loss/transfer? How about 1"pvc( black) tubing as integral thermal store/black serface/frame itself? Looking for the btus calculations from the interior of the house through the (greenhouse) "window" to the exterior say 5500 hdd? hmmmm anyone? (assuming a square foot of btu collecting surface IN the"window")? Tia Ed – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I guess what i’m really looking for is the btu through a window that is >heated > on its interior.   Would’nt it block the interior btu’s > through it? While loosing a smaller amount?. >Just putting a heater inside the window won’t block the heat loss >through the window. It just introduces another source of heat. >You would do better to try to make the window less able to let >heat flow through it. One method is to add insulation in the >form of a thermal drape or insulation panels in the form of >shutters. Another method would be to add something that reflects >IR light such as aluminum foil. Many thermal drapes combine >the two ideas and have an insulating layer and reflective >layer(s). >Anthony

Response:

>2.  Also wondering say a custom made window with a 4" space sides and bottom >black, 1 gallon of water anti freeze mix at the bottom(no air exchanges of >course) >2"or so what would be the btu loss through it ? (window say 3 sq feetx4" thick >for 1 cubic foot inside?)

The hippies made "bead walls" during the 70s … using a vaccuum cleaner or somesuch to fill up / remove the space between the glass with styrofoam beads. I’ve never seen one, but they sound kind of fun as long as all the beads will suck out when desired.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->2.  Also wondering say a custom made window with a 4" space sides and bottom >black, 1 gallon of water anti freeze mix at the bottom(no air exchanges of >course) >2"or so what would be the btu loss through it ? (window say 3 sq feetx4" >thick >for 1 cubic foot inside?) > The hippies made "bead walls" during the 70s … using a vaccuum cleaner > or somesuch to fill up / remove the space between the glass with > styrofoam beads. I’ve never seen one, but they sound kind of fun as long > as all the beads will suck out when desired.

try zomeworks.com. I think they still have them there

Response:

says… > You would do better to try to make the window less able to let > heat flow through it. One method is to add insulation in the > form of a thermal drape or insulation panels in the form of > shutters. Another method would be to add something that reflects > IR light such as aluminum foil. Many thermal drapes combine > the two ideas and have an insulating layer and reflective > layer(s).

If one is on a low budget, perhaps it would help to just hang a cheap, camping-type "space blanket" over the inside of the regular curtains/drapes with the shiny side facing in(?) — Guide To DIY Living http://www.self-reliance.co.nz (Work in progress)

Response:

>…A vacuum has zero conductivity. > Not really. The radiation conductance is about R1 at 70 F, > with ordinary materials. Linearized, Gr = 4sT^3, where s is > the Stefan-Boltzman constant and T is the absolute mean temp. > For instance, 70 F indoors and 30 F outdoors makes T = 460+50 > = 510 R, so Gr = 4×0.1714×10^-8×510^3 = 0.91 Btu/h-F-ft^2.

BZZZT.  Nice start, but the heat lost by radiation is: Q = sigma * A * epsilon (T1^4  - T2^4) The fourth power, not third. And for your example, Q = 0.1714e-8 * A * emissivity * ((460+70)^4 – (460+30)^4) (if one object is completely enclosed in the second, otherwise you must include a modulus to account for the geometry) So for ‘black’ bodies, the radiant heat transfer would be 36.4 BTU/hr-ft^2 You cannot take the delta temperature and add 460 to convert it to Rankine. The difference between 70 F and 30 F is 50 F and is also equal to 50 R. (the ‘+460′ on each cancel out). daestrom

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If a window (in this case really a clear passive greenhouse) is say 70f and > the house temp is 70f then what heat loss? > 70F through 70F ? isnt it 0 heat loss/transfer? > How about 1"pvc( black) tubing as integral thermal store/black serface/frame > itself? > Looking for the btus calculations from the interior of the house through the > (greenhouse) "window" to the exterior say 5500 hdd? hmmmm anyone? > (assuming a square foot of btu collecting surface IN the"window")?

Well, you have part of it right.  If the space between the two pieces of glass is at the same temperature as the inside, there will not be any temperature difference across the inside pane, so the heat loss from the room through that pane will be zero.  But, you will have raised the temperature drop across the outside pane.  So, it will take quite a bit of energy from your heater to maintain the temperature in the space between the panes.  More than you will save across the inside pane.  The energy will just have to come from your ‘heater’ between the panes instead of from the room. Now, if the energy used to heat between the panes is cheaper/free (such as sunshine on some dark webbing or sun clothe), than what you use to heat the home, you win.  If you pay more for the energy used between the panes than what you pay for general heating (say, grid electric vs. NG), then you lose. Does this help? daestrom

Response:

>> The radiation conductance is about R1 at 70 F, with ordinary materials. > Linearized, Gr = 4sT^3, where s is the Stefan-Boltzman constant and T > is the absolute mean temp. For instance, 70 F indoors and 30 F outdoors > makes T = 460+50 = 510 R, so Gr = 4×0.1714×10^-8×510^3 = 0.91 Btu/h-F-ft^2. >BZZZT.  Nice start, but the heat lost by radiation is: >Q = sigma * A * epsilon (T1^4  - T2^4) >The fourth power, not third.

Agreed. >And for your example, >Q = 0.1714e-8 * A * emissivity * ((460+70)^4 – (460+30)^4) >(if one object is completely enclosed in the second, otherwise you must >include a modulus to account for the geometry) >So for ‘black’ bodies, the radiant heat transfer would be 36.4 BTU/hr-ft^2

Would that be different from 0.91(70-30) = 36.4 Btu/h-ft^2? You might read more carefully. Nick

Response:

> I guess what i’m really looking for is the btu through a window that is heated > on its interior.   Would’nt it block the interior btu’s > through it?

yes, if the window gap is the same temp as the room, there will be no heat flow across the interior pane of glass. > While loosing a smaller amount?.

Since the window gap is now at a higher temp than before, the heat loss to outside will obviously be greater. Regards, NT

Response:

Yup that helps, So, no loss on one side of the thicker window,  but loss on the cold side, How much water,thermal store to have this window/sunspace keep just itself warm till the next sunny day (free) solar charge? If it can keep itself heated and let solar gain through it(cuase then frame surfaces collect the heat not a screen) then could you add the gain through it + the btu loss prevented to say the window gains both ? If a square foot stops say 100 btus of its own isolated doings then is its R value = R 100? Nice window. Tia Ed – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If a window (in this case really a clear passive greenhouse) is say 70f >and > the house temp is 70f then what heat loss? > 70F through 70F ? isnt it 0 heat loss/transfer? > How about 1"pvc( black) tubing as integral thermal store/black >serface/frame > itself? > Looking for the btus calculations from the interior of the house through >the > (greenhouse) "window" to the exterior say 5500 hdd? hmmmm anyone? > (assuming a square foot of btu collecting surface IN the"window")? >Well, you have part of it right.  If the space between the two pieces of >glass is at the same temperature as the inside, there will not be any >temperature difference across the inside pane, so the heat loss from the >room through that pane will be zero.  But, you will have raised the >temperature drop across the outside pane.  So, it will take quite a bit of >energy from your heater to maintain the temperature in the space between the >panes.  More than you will save across the inside pane.  The energy will >just have to come from your ‘heater’ between the panes instead of from the >room. >Now, if the energy used to heat between the panes is cheaper/free (such as >sunshine on some dark webbing or sun clothe), than what you use to heat the >home, you win.  If you pay more for the energy used between the panes than >what you pay for general heating (say, grid electric vs. NG), then you lose. >Does this help? >daestrom

Response:

> Now, if the energy used to heat between the panes is cheaper/free (such as > sunshine on some dark webbing or sun clothe), than what you use to heat the > home, you win.

If you let that heat shine straight into the room like normal you’d lose less of it. So no win. Regards, NT

Response:

> Hi all, > 1. I was wondering if any benefit could be had if you heated between double > pane glass( when needed say at night) with a small nichrom wire? Maybe 20 > watts? or so?

Waste of energy, heat would go outside. > Would it help the r-value any?

I would think it would actually harm the R-value, as metal conducts heat quite well. I’ve heard they put argon gas in double pane windows and wonder what would happen if you had some type of gas in them that would glow when electricically charged? Kind of interesting lighting I guess. Wonder if it would prevent someone from seeing through it when charged, could be an interesting marketing gimmick. Jamie

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > 1. I was wondering if any benefit could be had if you heated between double > pane glass( when needed say at night) with a small nichrom wire? Maybe 20 > watts? or so? > Waste of energy, heat would go outside. > Would it help the r-value any? > I would think it would actually harm the R-value, as metal conducts heat > quite well. > I’ve heard they put argon gas in double pane windows and wonder what > would happen if you had some type of gas in them that would glow when > electricically charged? Kind of interesting lighting I guess. > Wonder if it would prevent someone from seeing through it when charged, > could be an interesting marketing gimmick.

Argon glows bright green when ionized.  Just look (from a safe distance) at a MIG welder at work.

Response:

Question:

> Why do you think that is?  My Acura CL has a rear window antenna and I am in > the Los Anegles area.  Many times I can get San Diego and Santa Barbara area > FM stations.    What  about audio frequency response?  Some folks here > commented about the poor sub woofer performance.

My 1996 328 convertible has a black flexible antenna that is about 15" long mounted on the passenger side rear fender (obviously the older soft top with plastic rear window cannot use rear window antenna.) I am one that was not satisfied with the amount of base response, although the midrange and treble sound great. The 10 speaker HK setup has 4 tweeters (each door), and 6 lower frequency speakers (each door and the kick panels). The largest speaker is between 5 and 6 inch diameter. There is no way to get really good low frequency bass (I play electric bass, and used to service church organs – I want a clean sound down to below 30 or at least 40Hz) from such small speakers – even the B&W speakers in my home system, which have 6-1/2" "woofers" don’t go down that low. So – I added a subwoofer (car and home, although the home has a 15"). A lot of people go for a large trunk mounted subwoofer (I had a 15" sub in the full size van that I had), but the BMW trunk is acoustically isolated from the passenger compartment. The largest space I found for an install allowed mounting an 8" speaker. I chose the square subwoofer made by Kicker, since the surface area is similar to that of a 10" round speaker. This has resulted in a well balanced system with good response as  set up by use of a sine wave audio test CD. Also, I don’t want just a loud popping noise for bass, I want something that sounds like a good bass guitar through a Fender amp into the dual 15" speaker cabinet – smooth sounding. My other vehicle is a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, it also had 5 to 6" speakers. I added a subwoofer in it (well I have two – the 15" when I don’t want to carry a lot of stuff, and a 10" smaller cabinet for when I need the room for other things). The 330 series speaker system may have been changed. I know that there is a separate subwoofer in the Z3 (and presumably the Z4), and some of the 5 and 7 series have subs. They may well have added a sub in the 330, I’m not sure. Jim

Response:

> Worth mentioning are loses and interference – signal from the aerial is > amplified and it’s level increased hundred of times > As is the interference since it’s a wideband device.

Not *that* interference – all modern RF amps have some sort of front end filter. Idea is to pick up low level aerial signal, amplify it and increase it’s level – high level signal over low impendance won’t pick up any other radio signals that may be generated by car electronics etc. > – it is easy to route it into a receiver which can be positioned > anywhere in the vehicle, length of the coax is not a factor any more. > A better solution would involve mounting the tuner close to the aerial, > and controlling it remotely – you can already via the steering wheel for > most functions.

Can be done, but it’s more complicated. Hybrid amplifier module is small, cheap, does not require power supply lines (it’s fed via aerial cable with RF coil). > The actual FM RF performance on my E39 is rather worse than my other car > with a much older radio but an ordinary telescopic aerial – and more so on > AM. The only thing to be said for screen aerials are they’re vandal proof.

E60 is not much better on FM, but AM (not that I listen any but tried as a comparison) is way better. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> — > *Always borrow money from pessimists – they don’t expect it back * >      RIP Acorn

Response:

I have read in several posts here about the BMW HK radio having a pre amplifier in the antenna line.  Why does it need one?  Is there a problem with  the inherent design that it needs it?  Also some posts about the sub woofer having less than great performance.  My current Acura Cl has no such problem.  I am considering a 330 CI and these questions have me wondering. Thanks. S

Response:

> I have read in several posts here about the BMW HK radio having a pre > amplifier in the antenna line.  Why does it need one?

All radios that use the rear screen heater element have an RF amp – it’s not the best of aerials. But the BMW system uses diversity reception – it selects the better of IIRC two different aerials. — *Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm *      RIP Acorn  

Response:

> I have read in several posts here about the BMW HK radio having a pre > amplifier in the antenna line.  Why does it need one? > All radios that use the rear screen heater element have an RF amp – it’s > not the best of aerials. But the BMW system uses diversity reception – it > selects the better of IIRC two different aerials. > — > *Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm * >      RIP Acorn

Worth mentioning are loses and interference – signal from the aerial is amplified and it’s level increased hundred of times – it is easy to route it into a receiver which can be positioned anywhere in the vehicle, length of the coax is not a factor any more. Alex

Response:

> Worth mentioning are loses and interference – signal from the aerial is > amplified and it’s level increased hundred of times

As is the interference since it’s a wideband device. > – it is easy to route it into a receiver which can be positioned > anywhere in the vehicle, length of the coax is not a factor any more.

A better solution would involve mounting the tuner close to the aerial, and controlling it remotely – you can already via the steering wheel for most functions. The actual FM RF performance on my E39 is rather worse than my other car with a much older radio but an ordinary telescopic aerial – and more so on AM. The only thing to be said for screen aerials are they’re vandal proof. — *Always borrow money from pessimists – they don’t expect it back *      RIP Acorn  

Response:

Why do you think that is?  My Acura CL has a rear window antenna and I am in the Los Anegles area.  Many times I can get San Diego and Santa Barbara area FM stations.    What  about audio frequency response?  Some folks here commented about the poor sub woofer performance. S

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Worth mentioning are loses and interference – signal from the aerial is > amplified and it’s level increased hundred of times > As is the interference since it’s a wideband device. > – it is easy to route it into a receiver which can be positioned > anywhere in the vehicle, length of the coax is not a factor any more. > A better solution would involve mounting the tuner close to the aerial, > and controlling it remotely – you can already via the steering wheel for > most functions. > The actual FM RF performance on my E39 is rather worse than my other car > with a much older radio but an ordinary telescopic aerial – and more so on > AM. The only thing to be said for screen aerials are they’re vandal proof. > — > *Always borrow money from pessimists – they don’t expect it back * >      RIP Acorn

Response:

Question:

Hi all Long time lurker, 1st time poster, here. I have a ‘91325 convertible (103K mi) in great mechanical condition (although the roof needs some restitching) which I bought from my father (i.e., 1.5 owners). For ME, a convertible is NOT suitable for a tropical climate (too hot). You guys have solve a myriad of problems for me (thank you, Fred and others), such as leaking taillights, etc. I’m going to look at a car tomorrow (VIN above) that the skeptic in me says is ‘too good to be true’: 2001 330i coupe, 37,000 mi, all options, $20,000. Carfax says no problems; I will verify the VIN when I see the car. My other ‘option’ might be to restore the cars’ iinterior and to buy a hardtop roof. Any suggestions where/how to acquire one and how much? Your input, if any, would be invaluable to me in making a decision (as I’ve learned alot from reading your posts). BTW, IF I buy the newer car, anyone interested in the ‘91? Well maintained and excellent mechanicals but needs some interior work and could do with a paint job (faded but not peeling), one noticable (on inspection) ding, and aforementioned roof problem. Al Ritchie

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all > Long time lurker, 1st time poster, here. I have a ‘91325 convertible (103K > mi) in great mechanical condition (although the roof needs some restitching) > which I bought from my father (i.e., 1.5 owners). For ME, a convertible is > NOT suitable for a tropical climate (too hot). You guys have solve a myriad > of problems for me (thank you, Fred and others), such as leaking taillights, > etc. > I’m going to look at a car tomorrow (VIN above) that the skeptic in me says > is ‘too good to be true’: 2001 330i coupe, 37,000 mi, all options, $20,000. > Carfax says no problems; I will verify the VIN when I see the car. > My other ‘option’ might be to restore the cars’ iinterior and to buy a > hardtop roof. Any suggestions where/how to acquire one and how much? > Your input, if any, would be invaluable to me in making a decision (as I’ve > learned alot from reading your posts). > BTW, IF I buy the newer car, anyone interested in the ‘91? Well maintained > and excellent mechanicals but needs some interior work and could do with a > paint job (faded but not peeling), one noticable (on inspection) ding, and > aforementioned roof problem. > Al Ritchie

I have a 96 328 convertible, I looked for a year and half on eBay auctions for the matching hardtop. (the earlier 325 also has a hardtop, but the 94-99 E36 is a different hardtop). I wanted one in a color that at least didn’t conflict, and close enough so that I could drive my BMW to the location and pick it up, to save several hunderd on shipping. BTW, if you add a hardtop, you will have to go to a BMW dealer or otherwise locate the mounting kit for the hardtop, which is several parts that install in the chassis to hold the back part of the hardtop down to the body, and to provide electrical connections for the dome lights and heated rear window. Another very nice accessory is either a garage mounted lift kit to remove the top, or at least a dolly to put the top on when you take it off the car. One more thing – if you plan to leave the hardtop on for a prolonged period, tape a couple of thin cloth towels to the top so that the cover the plastic rear window of the convertible top. Otherwise, the window will deteriorate either cracking or getting a white stripe a couple of inches that you can’t see through. You also want a large cloth bag or at least a couple of sheets to put over the hardtop while it is stored. I do like the hardtop. The rear window is considerably larger than the one on the soft top. There is less wind noise. However, there is a bit of creaking noise when one goes over bumps, which comes from the front part of the top sliding slightly on the upper windshield frame. I live in southeast Virginia, and usually put the top on all through the winter months, then remove it for the summer. In your case, you might want to do the opposite. I do understand, mid summer here is too warm and humid to put the top down. My garage isn’t high enough to mount a lift device, and also has too much other stuff in it to be able to park the car inside anyhow. This necessitates a minimum of 2 fairly strong people, preferably 3 (1 at the front, the other 2 on each side at the rear) in order to remove or replace the hardtop. I got a 3" long scratch on the rear deck lid when one person wasn’t able to hold the top. It is made of aluminum, with a glass rear window, and is large and heavy enough to be a bit of a pain to handle. HTH, Jim

Response:

> Hi all > I’m going to look at a car tomorrow (VIN above) that the skeptic in me says > is ‘too good to be true’: 2001 330i coupe, 37,000 mi, all options, $20,000. > Carfax says no problems; I will verify the VIN when I see the car.

Al, If that deal *is* real, I would say go for it and sell off the older convertible.  Even if it isn’t, you might want to do some shopping for a hardtop for the future. Convertibles demand a premium, in terms of both price and also trade-offs (noisier, heavier, less visibility, etc.) so if you aren’t going to benefiit from putting  the top down much, it would make sense to sell it off to someone who will and get a nice hardtop coupe or sedan  that better suits your particular needs. -Fred W

Response:

I am curious whatever happened with VIN WBABN53431JU34444 (the 2001 330ci for $20k)?  Did you see the car??  Thanks.

Response:

Whatever happened with this car (2001 330ci for $20k)?  Did you see it? The seller says it’s still available.  Was it a scam?

Response:

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> No problem with my gearchanges.  Took the car to the dealer THursday for oil > top up and headlight adjustment, all covered by service plan, and they > washed all the bugs off the front too( and the rest of the car.)  Must say > the service is much improved from my last experience when I first got my > 330.  I had emails off to BMW NZ etc then, guess I wasn’t the only one > complaining. I suppose I should let BMW NZ know my thoughts now too. > My CD "problem appears to be related to having put a CD in the dash mounted > drive. This is the CD it plays, whenever it does it when I’m not expecting, > and it plays from the start. > Are you happy with your car now? ( and service experience?) > Leong

Not happy…gearchange is just slightly better, but it’s far from perfect. They replaced On Board Monitor (apparently there’s recall – mine was working fine). Power steering is having the same vibration and I am getting some rattles from the back….I had to have tracking unit installed and surely they didn’t put everything together properly. Will follow up with dealership tomorrow about this gearchange, I am still driving in manual mode all the time.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Not happy…gearchange is just slightly better, > but it’s far from perfect. > They replaced On Board Monitor (apparently > there’s recall – mine was working fine). > Power steering is having the same vibration and > I am getting some rattles from the back….I had to > have tracking unit installed and surely they didn’t > put everything together properly. > Will follow up with dealership tomorrow > about this gearchange, I am still driving in > manual mode all the time.

I hope you have a good service advisor, who will keep working on it till the problem’s resolved, now that it’s obvious that it won’t be done right first time!! Leong

Response:

> Took it for a software upgrade this morning, it will be at the dealership > until > Thursday, apparently they need some new parts (for a software fix). Will > post > if gearchange is okay when I get it back. Your car changes fine ? > Alex

No problem with my gearchanges.  Took the car to the dealer THursday for oil top up and headlight adjustment, all covered by service plan, and they washed all the bugs off the front too( and the rest of the car.)  Must say the service is much improved from my last experience when I first got my 330.  I had emails off to BMW NZ etc then, guess I wasn’t the only one complaining. I suppose I should let BMW NZ know my thoughts now too. My CD "problem appears to be related to having put a CD in the dash mounted drive. This is the CD it plays, whenever it does it when I’m not expecting, and it plays from the start. Are you happy with your car now? ( and service experience?) Leong

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > Do you find some sort of vibration on the steering wheel when you try > to > > > quickly go from one lock to the other ? > > > Alex > > > 2004 530dA > > I have to do this every work day morning, ie a lock to lock three point > > turn, but cringe at the thought of doing this quickly, especially if the > > car’s moving very slowly.  haven’t noticed any vibration before or this > > morning after reading your post. Is this something you’ve experienced, > or > > heard/read? > > Leong > Quickly… say over 3 seconds…. > I have vibration, like when the belt is slipping. > But it’s not…thinking of that motor in active steering > or the rack dealing with extra pressure. > Car going for software upgrade tomorrow morning (software ver. > 11.something), > that should cure bluetooth pairing and jerk when shifting > from 2nd to 1st in D. Did you notice that ? > Alex > That extra pressure is what I’d be concerned about in the long term. Don’t > know the mechanics in these new cars, but the extra load could cause more > wear and lead to sloppy steering later on. > I haven’t had any issues with bluetooth, except that it won’t connect if my > phone, SE630, is not in "ready" state.  ie if I forget to use the keylock, > and have some accidental keypresses on the screen. Put phone back to ready > and it connects.  I love how accurately the voice control works!! > Must say my cars gearchanges are more "sporty" than the demonstrators I have > driven, even in D.  ie holds the gears longer etc and changeds down readily, > even with small throttle openings.  I would prefer if it changed earlier (in > D) and used it’s torque, and save the sport for sport mode.  I had issues > with a very harsh change from 3rd to 2nd in my 330i, (2002), if coming to a > stop in "manual" mode. Easily cured by the dealer.  Haven’t used manual mode > much so far, as I have been trying to keep under 3500rpm for the first > 2500km.  It’s so easy to go over 3500 without realising…. > My car thinks I want the CD player on everytime I start the car, haven’t > figured out how to change this yet, any clues? > Leong

Defaults to CD even if FM was on ? Not the case with mine. Re pressure – I have motorplan warranty 100.000km or 5 years, all wear, tear and maintenance covered by BMW. So, if something fails I will get it replaced. I am not going to worry about it too much if it doesn’t get worse. Due to this harsh gearchange I have been driving in manual from the start (6000km, just over 2 months old)…it is fantastic… from 2000rpm to 3000rpm with all the sounds of turbo and induction. You have to try it I am using 6310i Nokia….works fine but sometimes I have to pair – phone is used exclusively in the car. How is your oil consumption – I used 2l over first 3000km, now on 6000km, but oil level didn’t change. Alex

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Defaults to CD even if FM was on ? > Not the case with mine. > Re pressure – I have motorplan warranty 100.000km or > 5 years, all wear, tear and maintenance covered by BMW. > So, if something fails I will get it replaced. I am not going to > worry about it too much if it doesn’t get worse. > Due to this harsh gearchange I have been driving in manual from > the start (6000km, just over 2 months old)…it is fantastic… > from 2000rpm to 3000rpm with all the sounds of turbo and induction. > You have to try it > I am using 6310i Nokia….works fine but sometimes I have to > pair – phone is used exclusively in the car. > How is your oil consumption – I used 2l over first 3000km, > now on 6000km, but oil level didn’t change. > Alex > No, remembers the source, but always comes on, even if was off last time…. > Those gearchanges must be real harsh.  I used to drive my 330i in manual > mode most of the time, much more fun and responsive, but this diesel engine > wants to rev, and the times I have used the manual mode, I have accidentally > used more than the 3500rpm recommended at run in ( I know I should pay more > attention…but it’s really easy to do).  Now we’re through the run in > period I’ll use it more without feeling guilty about the revs. > At 2600km I’ve used about half way betn the markings on the dipstick.  We > have 3 yr maintenance plans included with the car, so the dealer prefers to > check the oil and refill themselves.  Handy if you live/work close to the > dealer. > Been getting just over 7l/100km on the open road, and 9 around town.  I’ve > heard diesel engines don’t perform best till around 10,000 km, interested to > know if economy will be better with more miles too. > Leong

No, gearchanges are okay, there’s a jerk only from 2nd to 1st, in D, if I shift manually it is all okay. So, oil consumption is more less the same – as it stopped I am not worried about that. Diesel consumption is also about the same…on first tank it was 11l/100km, now it’s 9.1 on average, I had a long drive on motorway, about 220 km, it was 6.8 and I was doing anything up to 210km/h (3000 rpm). Took it for a software upgrade this morning, it will be at the dealership until Thursday, apparently they need some new parts (for a software fix). Will post if gearchange is okay when I get it back. Your car changes fine ? Alex

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Defaults to CD even if FM was on ? > Not the case with mine. > Re pressure – I have motorplan warranty 100.000km or > 5 years, all wear, tear and maintenance covered by BMW. > So, if something fails I will get it replaced. I am not going to > worry about it too much if it doesn’t get worse. > Due to this harsh gearchange I have been driving in manual from > the start (6000km, just over 2 months old)…it is fantastic… > from 2000rpm to 3000rpm with all the sounds of turbo and induction. > You have to try it > I am using 6310i Nokia….works fine but sometimes I have to > pair – phone is used exclusively in the car. > How is your oil consumption – I used 2l over first 3000km, > now on 6000km, but oil level didn’t change. > Alex

No, remembers the source, but always comes on, even if was off last time…. Those gearchanges must be real harsh.  I used to drive my 330i in manual mode most of the time, much more fun and responsive, but this diesel engine wants to rev, and the times I have used the manual mode, I have accidentally used more than the 3500rpm recommended at run in ( I know I should pay more attention…but it’s really easy to do).  Now we’re through the run in period I’ll use it more without feeling guilty about the revs. At 2600km I’ve used about half way betn the markings on the dipstick.  We have 3 yr maintenance plans included with the car, so the dealer prefers to check the oil and refill themselves.  Handy if you live/work close to the dealer. Been getting just over 7l/100km on the open road, and 9 around town.  I’ve heard diesel engines don’t perform best till around 10,000 km, interested to know if economy will be better with more miles too. Leong

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Do you find some sort of vibration on the steering wheel when you try to > > quickly go from one lock to the other ? > > Alex > > 2004 530dA > I have to do this every work day morning, ie a lock to lock three point > turn, but cringe at the thought of doing this quickly, especially if the > car’s moving very slowly.  haven’t noticed any vibration before or this > morning after reading your post. Is this something you’ve experienced, or > heard/read? > Leong > Quickly… say over 3 seconds…. > I have vibration, like when the belt is slipping. > But it’s not…thinking of that motor in active steering > or the rack dealing with extra pressure. > Car going for software upgrade tomorrow morning (software ver. > 11.something), > that should cure bluetooth pairing and jerk when shifting > from 2nd to 1st in D. Did you notice that ? > Alex

That extra pressure is what I’d be concerned about in the long term.  Don’t know the mechanics in these new cars, but the extra load could cause more wear and lead to sloppy steering later on. I haven’t had any issues with bluetooth, except that it won’t connect if my phone, SE630, is not in "ready" state.  ie if I forget to use the keylock, and have some accidental keypresses on the screen. Put phone back to ready and it connects.  I love how accurately the voice control works!! Must say my cars gearchanges are more "sporty" than the demonstrators I have driven, even in D.  ie holds the gears longer etc and changeds down readily, even with small throttle openings.  I would prefer if it changed earlier (in D) and used it’s torque, and save the sport for sport mode.  I had issues with a very harsh change from 3rd to 2nd in my 330i, (2002), if coming to a stop in "manual" mode. Easily cured by the dealer.  Haven’t used manual mode much so far, as I have been trying to keep under 3500rpm for the first 2500km.  It’s so easy to go over 3500 without realising…. My car thinks I want the CD player on everytime I start the car, haven’t figured out how to change this yet, any clues? Leong

Response:

> Do you find some sort of vibration on the steering wheel when you try to > quickly go from one lock to the other ? > Alex > 2004 530dA

I have to do this every work day morning, ie a lock to lock three point turn, but cringe at the thought of doing this quickly, especially if the car’s moving very slowly.  haven’t noticed any vibration before or this morning after reading your post. Is this something you’ve experienced, or heard/read? Leong

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Do you find some sort of vibration on the steering wheel when you try to > quickly go from one lock to the other ? > Alex > 2004 530dA > I have to do this every work day morning, ie a lock to lock three point > turn, but cringe at the thought of doing this quickly, especially if the > car’s moving very slowly.  haven’t noticed any vibration before or this > morning after reading your post. Is this something you’ve experienced, or > heard/read? > Leong

Quickly… say over 3 seconds…. I have vibration, like when the belt is slipping. But it’s not…thinking of that motor in active steering or the rack dealing with extra pressure. Car going for software upgrade tomorrow morning (software ver. 11.something), that should cure bluetooth pairing and jerk when shifting from 2nd to 1st in D. Did you notice that ? Alex

Response:

> Hi All > Would Like Any Info > Regards > Jb > Well, it has a diesel engine, and 370 lb-ft of torque . > Seriously, try your local dealer – from your post it is difficult to > pinpoint what exactly you want to know.

It was a 27,000 mile test car for CAR magazine.  The one with the top 100 cars on the front.  This month. They reportedly liked it a lot.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Hi All > > Would Like Any Info > > Regards > > Jb > Well, it has a diesel engine, and 370 lb-ft of torque . > Seriously, try your local dealer – from your post it is difficult to > pinpoint what exactly you want to know. > It was a 27,000 mile test car for CAR magazine.  The one with the top 100 > cars on the front.  This month. > They reportedly liked it a lot.

I guess any info you can pick up on BMW website. We all know that majority of people in here dislike it’s looks Alex 530dA Anyone with active steering ?

Response:

> Hi All > Would Like Any Info > Regards > Jb

Warning, extremely long post, read only if interested in purchasing an E60. I’ve had my 530d SE for just over three weeks now, and done 2600km. Returned from a trip to Rotorua this afternoon.  It is easily the best car I’ve owned, (  since 1996, 1996 Audi A4 1.8T, 1997 535iASE, 1999 MB E430 Avantgarde, 2000 330iASE, 2002 330iASE Touring ), so far. When discussing the car with friends, it’s hard to list ALL the things I like about it… they get bored listening after the first few, however when I was considering buying, I couldn’t read enough…. I have a titanium Silver 530d with grey interior, steptronic, with Dynamic Drive, comfort seats, sunroof, bluetooth, and the upgraded stereo as options.  NZ spec is high with Active steering, and headlights, PDC, three auto dipping mirrors, rain sensor, all airbags, 138 wheels, sports steering wheel 379mm, electric seats + s/wheel with memory, std cruise, the top A/C package, lights package all standard, and likely more compared to UK spec ( we get UK brochures) What I like best is the engine.  Performance is on par with my old E430, and 330i, yet the car is bigger than both, and costs half as much (in NZ) to run.  Overtaking on our country roads is a breeze, and I go at least 800km on a tank, compared with 450-500km in the two cars mentioned above ( less if driven hard).  The engine is more flexible in gear than anything I have driven before, except Cayenne Turbo, Carrera…..etc.  The engine revs willingly to redline, and it is in this area that the 530d engine is better than the E320CDi engine. The new 5 is a big car compared to the E39 and New E Class, yet drives like a go kart with Active steering and Dynamic drive.  I stayed with the standard shocks/spring, rather than the sports setup which would result in even better handling but at the expense of ride, (which would be too hard most of the time given our bumpy roads and standard RFTs.)  Having said that, my car does get upset by big bumps mid corner (wallows) that the sports suspension would absorb, however I don’t feel those bumps nearly as much! ( I expect there will be be adjustable air suspension in the future). The dynamic drive keeps the car cornering flat, even if you turn in further when the suspension is already loaded up, and is easily appreciated even on city roads around roundabouts.  Active steering is great when parking, and more especially when driving enthusiastically thru winding roads and hairpin bends.  I’ve read tests where people have questioned the feel and need for correction immediately after initial turn in, but while the steering is reasonably light, you can still feel the level of grip, and I am sure that familiarity will deal with their other issue… which I have not noticed ( it does take some time to get acquainted with the Active Steering ( standard equipment on all New Zealand E60s). The comfort seats are good with no aches and pains after a 4hr 30min drive. Much better than the sports seats with adjustable lumbar on my 330.  The seats have electrically adjustable side bolsters that release you when you switch off the engine, and hug you when you start it, much like the steering wheel adjusts to let you get out easily.  I have a tall friend who has difficulty getting comfortable in cars, and he loved the way the seats could be lowered so he didn’t hit his head on the roof, even with a sunroof present.  He also appreciated the adjustable length to the seat squab, which I don’t need to use!. The way the indicator, high beam, and wiper switches work ie press to activate then stalk returns to central position, works a treat.  Those with small hands can always reach the stalk cos it’s in the same place, and your auto bixenon  headlights can’t automatically turn on to high beam!.  The rain sensor switch is also an improvement in that it lets you use the single wipe should you choose to.  ( I believe those who like rainsensors live in climates like ours where the rain is never constant, and those that don’t either live in constant mist and fog ie the UK, or eternal sunshine ie California, but thats just IMO) I could write more about the six speed auto that seems to know what gear you want, though almost all road tests I have read ahve raved about this,  or the fantastic bixenon lights that turn night to day, and now even help you see around bends.  I like the independent ventilator that you can set to ventilate a hot car 30mins before you are due to drive home ( available in the E39 ), and the fact that the remote can lock.unlock and open the windows from a very good distance away, so that you can do it while you walk up to the car, rather than having to wait for it when you get there ( a la MB/E39 ).  I like the standard split fold rear seats that were an expensive option on the E39, and the ski bag, or hole if you take the ski bag module out, can be manipulated to your needs.  The boot also is sprung to open when you open it with the remote, unlike the E39, and like the E430.  The boot is huge too, though mine has a tray and compartment on the left side that earlier E60s didn’t have. I haven’t mentioned the bluetooth phone!! or I Drive!!!  I should mention I Drive as there is so much negative publicity….. I like it because there is so much less dashboard clutter, and most of the controls you use all the time can be controlled by the steering wheel buttons.  There are two user customisable buttons on the steering wheel that you can setup to your liking ( limited options though ) using the Idrive.  I have mine setup to swap between entertainment sources ( this means also that you can switch on the radio/CD etc from the steering wheel ), and the other to swap the other steering wheel buttons between entertainment and telephone.  By doing this you can use the s/wheel buttons most of the time.  The most annoying thing so far is if you want to swap to a different CD in  the stacker.  Previously you just pushed the button 1-6, now its menu ( unless already in main menu )down, down, up, then twirl to the selected CD.  Once in teh entertainment menu however, it is easier to select tracks than before.  Most other functions are less often used once you have the car setup how you like.  Things like whether doors lock automatically, how long the headlight switch off delay is, or whether the car locks again automatically if not opened etc etc yourself can be customised with I drive. You get used to it, then you appreciate the uncomplicated dash everyday.  Personally, the only button I occasionally use on the air conditioner is the air recirculate, when I think that the Auto air recirc might not work quickly enough, otherwise, they almost always stay on the same settings. ( as they should I guess). I think I’d better end here.  If you would like more opinions then let me know, otherwise please excuse my enthusiasm, it is very hard to suppress!! Leong, PS, Only problem so far, there could be more storage bins in the front cabin area, but I’ll just carry less!!

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi All > Would Like Any Info > Regards > Jb > Warning, extremely long post, read only if interested in purchasing an E60. > I’ve had my 530d SE for just over three weeks now, and done 2600km. > Returned from a trip to Rotorua this afternoon.  It is easily the best car > I’ve owned, (  since 1996, 1996 Audi A4 1.8T, 1997 535iASE, 1999 MB E430 > Avantgarde, 2000 330iASE, 2002 330iASE Touring ), so far. > When discussing the car with friends, it’s hard to list ALL the things I > like about it… they get bored listening after the first few, however when > I was considering buying, I couldn’t read enough…. > I have a titanium Silver 530d with grey interior, steptronic, with Dynamic > Drive, comfort seats, sunroof, bluetooth, and the upgraded stereo as > options.  NZ spec is high with Active steering, and headlights, PDC, three > auto dipping mirrors, rain sensor, all airbags, 138 wheels, sports steering > wheel 379mm, electric seats + s/wheel with memory, std cruise, the top A/C > package, lights package all standard, and likely more compared to UK spec > ( we get UK brochures) > What I like best is the engine.  Performance is on par with my old E430, and > 330i, yet the car is bigger than both, and costs half as much (in NZ) to > run.  Overtaking on our country roads is a breeze, and I go at least 800km > on a tank, compared with 450-500km in the two cars mentioned above ( less if > driven hard).  The engine is more flexible in gear than anything I have > driven before, except Cayenne Turbo, Carrera…..etc.  The engine revs > willingly to redline, and it is in this area that the 530d engine is better > than the E320CDi engine. > The new 5 is a big car compared to the E39 and New E Class, yet drives like > a go kart with Active steering and Dynamic drive.  I stayed with the > standard shocks/spring, rather than the sports setup which would result in > even better handling but at the expense of ride, (which would be too hard > most of the time given our bumpy roads and standard RFTs.)  Having said > that, my car does get upset by big bumps mid corner (wallows) that the > sports suspension would absorb, however I don’t feel those bumps nearly as > much! ( I expect there will be be adjustable air suspension in the future). > The dynamic drive keeps the car cornering flat, even if you turn in further > when the suspension is already loaded up, and is easily appreciated even on > city roads around roundabouts.  Active steering is great when parking, and > more especially when driving enthusiastically thru winding roads and hairpin > bends.  I’ve read tests where people have questioned the feel and need for > correction immediately after initial turn in, but while the steering is > reasonably light, you can still feel the level of grip, and I am sure that > familiarity will deal with their other issue… which I have not noticed ( > it does take some time to get acquainted with the Active Steering ( standard > equipment on all New Zealand E60s). > The comfort seats are good with no aches and pains after a 4hr 30min drive. > Much better than the sports seats with adjustable lumbar on my 330.  The > seats have electrically adjustable side bolsters that release you when you > switch off the engine, and hug you when you start it, much like the steering > wheel adjusts to let you get out easily.  I have a tall friend who has > difficulty getting comfortable in cars, and he loved the way the seats could > be lowered so he didn’t hit his head on the roof, even with a sunroof > present.  He also appreciated the adjustable length to the seat squab, which > I don’t need to use!. > The way the indicator, high beam, and wiper switches work ie press to > activate then stalk returns to central position, works a treat.  Those with > small hands can always reach the stalk cos it’s in the same place, and your > auto bixenon  headlights can’t automatically turn on to high beam!.  The > rain sensor switch is also an improvement in that it lets you use the single > wipe should you choose to.  ( I believe those who like rainsensors live in > climates like ours where the rain is never constant, and those that don’t > either live in constant mist and fog ie the UK, or eternal sunshine ie > California, but thats just IMO) > I could write more about the six speed auto that seems to know what gear you > want, though almost all road tests I have read ahve raved about this,  or > the fantastic bixenon lights that turn night to day, and now even help you > see around bends.  I like the independent ventilator that you can set to > ventilate a hot car 30mins before you are due to drive home ( available in > the E39 ), and the fact that the remote can lock.unlock and open the windows > from a very good distance away, so that you can do it while you walk up to > the car, rather than having to wait for it when you get there ( a la > MB/E39 ).  I like the standard split fold rear seats that were an expensive > option on the E39, and the ski bag, or hole if you take the ski bag module > out, can be manipulated to your needs.  The boot also is sprung to open when > you open it with the remote, unlike the E39, and like the E430.  The boot is > huge too, though mine has a tray and compartment on the left side that > earlier E60s didn’t have. > I haven’t mentioned the bluetooth phone!! or I Drive!!!  I should mention I > Drive as there is so much negative publicity….. I like it because there is > so much less dashboard clutter, and most of the controls you use all the > time can be controlled by the steering wheel buttons.  There are two user > customisable buttons on the steering wheel that you can setup to your liking > ( limited options though ) using the Idrive.  I have mine setup to swap > between entertainment sources ( this means also that you can switch on the > radio/CD etc from the steering wheel ), and the other to swap the other > steering wheel buttons between entertainment and telephone.  By doing this > you can use the s/wheel buttons most of the time.  The most annoying thing > so far is if you want to swap to a different CD in  the stacker. Previously > you just pushed the button 1-6, now its menu ( unless already in main > menu )down, down, up, then twirl to the selected CD.  Once in teh > entertainment menu however, it is easier to select tracks than before. Most > other functions are less often used once you have the car setup how you > like.  Things like whether doors lock automatically, how long the headlight > switch off delay is, or whether the car locks again automatically if not > opened etc etc yourself can be customised with I drive. You get used to it, > then you appreciate the uncomplicated dash everyday.  Personally, the only > button I occasionally use on the air conditioner is the air recirculate, > when I think that the Auto air recirc might not work quickly enough, > otherwise, they almost always stay on the same settings. ( as they should I > guess). > I think I’d better end here.  If you would like more opinions then let me > know, otherwise please excuse my enthusiasm, it is very hard to suppress!! > Leong, > PS, Only problem so far, there could be more storage bins in the front cabin > area, but I’ll just carry less!!

Do you find some sort of vibration on the steering wheel when you try to quickly go from one lock to the other ? Alex 2004 530dA

Response:

Hi All Would Like Any Info Regards Jb

Response:

> Hi All > Would Like Any Info > Regards > Jb

Well, it has a diesel engine, and 370 lb-ft of torque . Seriously, try your local dealer – from your post it is difficult to pinpoint what exactly you want to know.

Response:

> Hi All > Would Like Any Info > Regards > Jb > Well, it has a diesel engine, and 370 lb-ft of torque . > Seriously, try your local dealer – from your post it is difficult to > pinpoint what exactly you want to know.

Actually there is a guy who posts to this ng who owns a 530d and may respond to your questions with a more proportioned perspective than a dealer. Stick around and see if he looks in an catches your post.

Response:

Question:

It’s behind the panel holding the driver’s side speaker, on my 85 318.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Could someome advise me on the location of a fuse for the windows and > interior lights or an online sight for downloading manuals for my bmw >Fuses 19,21, & 27 concern the interior lights.  The main fuse for the two >dome lights is 21.  27 & 19 go through the light timer controller. >Fuse 17 is for the windows & sunroof.  The dash mounted window circuit >breaker is the second item in the chain.  There’s also a rear window >safety switch before the rear window motors. >And yes, there was a complete scan of the electrical troubleshooting >manual online at one time (I saw it).  I bought the manual because I have >an ‘85 325e and 318i.  There’s one known mistake in the Aux Fan circuit of >the manual I’ve found so far.

  Light timer controller??? Would this part be found in an 89 325i? I am assuming this would fade the lights out or just shut them off ofter a given amount of time after the doors were closed. If present, where would I find it?

Response:

> Could someome advise me on the location of a fuse for the windows and > interior lights or an online sight for downloading manuals for my bmw

Fuses 19,21, & 27 concern the interior lights.  The main fuse for the two dome lights is 21.  27 & 19 go through the light timer controller. Fuse 17 is for the windows & sunroof.  The dash mounted window circuit breaker is the second item in the chain.  There’s also a rear window safety switch before the rear window motors. And yes, there was a complete scan of the electrical troubleshooting manual online at one time (I saw it).  I bought the manual because I have an ‘85 325e and 318i.  There’s one known mistake in the Aux Fan circuit of the manual I’ve found so far.

Response:

ould someome advise me on the location of a fuse for the windows and interior lights or an online sight for downloading manuals for my bmw

Response:

Question:

> I don’t know what is a goomer. If this means a guy with a M. Sc. in > mechanical engineering who has built large diesel engines, then yes, I’m > a goomer.

With a basic diesel engine, bad compression is a likely cause of poor starting. It’s well down the list on an EFI petrol engine. — *Can fat people go skinny-dipping?      RIP Acorn  

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Just leave it. The repair costs are going to exceed the purchasing cost. > > If the engine needs long cranking time, this means that pressure doesn’t > > build up properly in the cylinder, meaning worn piston rings and/or > leaking > > valves. > …spoken as a goomer that doesn’t know a torque wrench from a breaker > bar… > -Fred W > I don’t know what is a goomer. If this means a guy with a M. Sc. in > mechanical engineering who has built large diesel engines, then yes, I’m a > goomer. > Giovanni Tarantino

Well, apparently your vast knowledge in diesels doesn’t translate well to fuel injected gasoline engines because there is no way in hell that I would suspect worn piston or rings for long cranking time. Just FYI… normally, long cranking time is an indication that the fuel pressure is not being maintained in the fuel rail, usually it is something as cheap as a stuck check valve… -Fred W

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> HI, What do you think of this deal. > 1987 325 261K miles, new transmission at 200K (5 speed manual), 4 new > michelin tires, wear as you would expect for an older car, no rust, paint > peeling in one spot on hood, 2 year old 4 speaker Alpine stereo with CD. > Replaced the cam belt recently, should have 50K left on it.  Passed MD > inspection. > $1900 > One owner who I know very well and loves BMWs.  Just bought a new one. > He took care of it and it was garage kept for most of its life.  I drove > it and it runs very well.  Cranked a little longer than I expected when I > started it.  He says when it is real hot it can take a while to start, > but it does eventually.  Just fine in the cold.  AC just stopped blowing > cold air, sounds like comprssor is kicking in though.  Checking that out > next week. > I’m buying this for my teenager for school and to get around in.  He is a > very responsible kid. > Never bought a BMW before and I am concerned about the mileage and if > repair/maintenance costs are greater for an old BMW than maybe a 1992 > Mazda Protege which I can buy for $2000.  The BMW runs better.  Insurance > costs for either one is the same.

Greg, In a word: YES. It is risky. I drove an 87 325is for years. Passed it on to my nephew and he still drives it to this day. Has about 200K on the clock. At this point, it is not a car without "challenges" Now, you’re buying as much a project as a car. Lots of little things to go wrong and a few big ones to boot. You need to have this thing checked out by a mechanic. At this age, you can be dealing with rusted brake lines, fuel lines and pre-filter, bad injectors, chassis bushings, radiator, drive shaft and half shaft problems-the list goes on. The starting problem from hot is probably not be a big deal. My 87 with the 167hp engine would take a lot of cranking to start when warm. Did it since new. It also idled rough from new. Just a characteristic of the engine that year. It is a great car. One of the best I ever owned. But sadly, they’re getting old now, and old BMW’s are kind of like old movie stars: dignified, but very cranky and expensive to maintain. Good luck.

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> Just leave it. The repair costs are going to exceed the purchasing cost. > If the engine needs long cranking time, this means that pressure doesn’t > build up properly in the cylinder, meaning worn piston rings and/or > leaking valves.

You work as a service receptionist? ‘Cause you’ve picked about the most expensive  - and unlikely cause of poor hot starting – especially since it runs well. — *Be more or less specific *      RIP Acorn  

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> > Just leave it. The repair costs are going to exceed the purchasing cost. > If the engine needs long cranking time, this means that pressure doesn’t > build up properly in the cylinder, meaning worn piston rings and/or > leaking > valves. > …spoken as a goomer that doesn’t know a torque wrench from a breaker > bar… > -Fred W

I don’t know what is a goomer. If this means a guy with a M. Sc. in mechanical engineering who has built large diesel engines, then yes, I’m a goomer. Giovanni Tarantino

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The BMW is into its "second service interval" at 250K (an arbitrary measurement … BMW doesn’t log it that way).  That means most everything that made it to 100-125K needs replacement again and some really serious stuff may be coming due … like a top end job with valves etc. I’d take it to an independent mechanic and do a full diagnostic of the entire machine with emphasis on engine, driveline, suspension, steering etc. The E30 is a sweet machine and very durable, but a quarter million miles is a milestone that even such stalwart machines do not pass without some significant maintenance investment. R / John

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> HI, What do you think of this deal. > 1987 325 261K miles, new transmission at 200K (5 speed manual), 4 new > michelin tires, wear as you would expect for an older car, no rust, paint > peeling in one spot on hood, 2 year old 4 speaker Alpine stereo with CD. > Replaced the cam belt recently, should have 50K left on it.  Passed MD > inspection. > $1900 > One owner who I know very well and loves BMWs.  Just bought a new one. > He took care of it and it was garage kept for most of its life.  I drove > it and it runs very well.  Cranked a little longer than I expected when I > started it.  He says when it is real hot it can take a while to start, > but it does eventually.  Just fine in the cold.  AC just stopped blowing > cold air, sounds like comprssor is kicking in though.  Checking that out > next week. > I’m buying this for my teenager for school and to get around in.  He is a > very responsible kid. > Never bought a BMW before and I am concerned about the mileage and if > repair/maintenance costs are greater for an old BMW than maybe a 1992 > Mazda Protege which I can buy for $2000.  The BMW runs better.  Insurance > costs for either one is the same. > Thanks, > Greg > Bowie, MD

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> Just leave it. The repair costs are going to exceed the purchasing cost. > If the engine needs long cranking time, this means that pressure doesn’t > build up properly in the cylinder, meaning worn piston rings and/or leaking > valves.

…spoken as a goomer that doesn’t know a torque wrench from a breaker bar… -Fred W

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> Just do a thorough check, don’t pay too much for the damned thing, and prepare > to be handy with a wrench.  If you pay someone else to do all your repairs, > forget it.

This, as Frank Zappa once sung, is the crux of the biscuit.  But what better excuse to roll up your sleeves and dig into some character building automotive repairs than a sub $2k BMW?  …and with a six cylinder engine no less… -Fred W

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> HI, What do you think of this deal. > 1987 325 261K miles, new transmission at 200K (5 speed manual), 4 new > michelin tires, wear as you would expect for an older car, no rust, paint > peeling in one spot on hood, 2 year old 4 speaker Alpine stereo with CD. > Replaced the cam belt recently, should have 50K left on it.  Passed MD > inspection. > $1900

<<snip a bunch of details…>> Risky?  Only to the tune of  $1900 which isn’t a whole lott’a risk in my books… Do you, or you and your son, want to work on the car when it needs the inevitible repairs?  Every car will need some repairs sooner or later, and the $1900 variety is more prone to sooner.  If so you have cut your risk dramatically.  Any foreign car has the risk of expensive repairs when subjected to the whims of the mechanic specialists. I think your biggest risk is in getting your son hooked on an addiction to BMWs.  Once he drives (and maintains) one he will never be satisfied with anything less… Go for it.  You will not be sorry…  But I’ll bet you’ll be buying one for yourself before long. -Fred W ‘94 540iA ‘95 325i ‘97 Z3 2.8 (cherry!)

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> Just leave it. The repair costs are going to exceed the purchasing cost. > If the engine needs long cranking time, this means that pressure doesn’t > build up properly in the cylinder, meaning worn piston rings and/or leaking > valves.

Easily checked with a compression gauge and a single socket and ratchet. -Russ.

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>> Just leave it. The repair costs are going to exceed the purchasing > cost. If the engine needs long cranking time, this means that > pressure doesn’t build up properly in the cylinder, meaning worn > piston rings and/or leaking valves. > Easily checked with a compression gauge and a single socket and > ratchet.

The engine is the least of your worries.  Think about the worn out suspension, AC system, window regulators, seats — pads, frames, and mechanisms — fuel pumps and relays, various electrical components, brake system (corrosion, etc.), door hinges, seat belts, etc.  All these things can fail, and cost a lot to fix. The condition of main components (engine, transmission, brakes, suspension, clutch) is easy to determine, but the "little" stuff can kill you.  Renewing a suspension can actually cost more than replacing an engine/transmission with a good used one. Just do a thorough check, don’t pay too much for the damned thing, and prepare to be handy with a wrench.  If you pay someone else to do all your repairs, forget it. My last one was still going strong at 350k, when I left it in West Texas because of a lousy fuel pump relay.  Didn’t have the time to deal with it, but I *really* got my money’s worth out of that car. There was a famous test where a BMW ran a million miles on Mobile One oil, with very little engine wear.  But they usually don’t tell you they replaced the diff twice. Again, the engine is probably the least of your worries. Matt O.

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HI, What do you think of this deal. 1987 325 261K miles, new transmission at 200K (5 speed manual), 4 new michelin tires, wear as you would expect for an older car, no rust, paint peeling in one spot on hood, 2 year old 4 speaker Alpine stereo with CD.   Replaced the cam belt recently, should have 50K left on it.  Passed MD inspection. $1900 One owner who I know very well and loves BMWs.  Just bought a new one.   He took care of it and it was garage kept for most of its life.  I drove it and it runs very well.  Cranked a little longer than I expected when I started it.  He says when it is real hot it can take a while to start, but it does eventually.  Just fine in the cold.  AC just stopped blowing cold air, sounds like comprssor is kicking in though.  Checking that out next week. I’m buying this for my teenager for school and to get around in.  He is a very responsible kid. Never bought a BMW before and I am concerned about the mileage and if repair/maintenance costs are greater for an old BMW than maybe a 1992 Mazda Protege which I can buy for $2000.  The BMW runs better.  Insurance costs for either one is the same. Thanks, Greg Bowie, MD

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> HI, What do you think of this deal. > 1987 325 261K miles, new transmission at 200K (5 speed manual), 4 new > michelin tires, wear as you would expect for an older car, no rust, paint > peeling in one spot on hood, 2 year old 4 speaker Alpine stereo with CD. > Replaced the cam belt recently, should have 50K left on it.  Passed MD > inspection. > $1900 > One owner who I know very well and loves BMWs.  Just bought a new one. > He took care of it and it was garage kept for most of its life.  I drove > it and it runs very well.  Cranked a little longer than I expected when I > started it.  He says when it is real hot it can take a while to start, > but it does eventually.  Just fine in the cold.  AC just stopped blowing > cold air, sounds like comprssor is kicking in though.  Checking that out > next week. > I’m buying this for my teenager for school and to get around in.  He is a > very responsible kid. > Never bought a BMW before and I am concerned about the mileage and if > repair/maintenance costs are greater for an old BMW than maybe a 1992 > Mazda Protege which I can buy for $2000.  The BMW runs better.  Insurance > costs for either one is the same. > Thanks, > Greg > Bowie, MD

Buy the Bimmer.  It might cost you more than the Mazda, it might not. Probably will.  But with new tires, timing belt, and transmission, plus a reasonable stereo, that’s potentially a nice machine for him.  And, way, WAY cooler than a protege for a teenager. The E30 is a better candidate for shadetree mechanics too, btw. PS then send him to a BMW driving school via your local BMWCCA chapter. -Russ.

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Just leave it. The repair costs are going to exceed the purchasing cost. If the engine needs long cranking time, this means that pressure doesn’t build up properly in the cylinder, meaning worn piston rings and/or leaking valves. — Best regards. Giovanni Tarantino Bevaix (NE) Switzerland 1997 Audi A4 2.8 Q 220,000 km (137,000 miles) 1997 BMW 535i 217,000 km (134,000 miles)

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Question:

I have a 1999 528i and the glass that covers the headlights is very cloudy, mostly from what looks like dirt that somehow made its way inside the headlight, or just the normal aging process of glass.  Has anyone had the same problem, and can they be removed and cleaned without a lot of effort? If not, can they be replaced for a minimal cost? Thanks

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> I have a 1999 528i and the glass that covers the headlights is very > cloudy, mostly from what looks like dirt that somehow made its way > inside the headlight, or just the normal aging process of glass.  Has > anyone had the same problem, and can they be removed and cleaned > without a lot of effort? If not, can they be replaced for a minimal > cost? > Thanks

1999? Are you sure that’s glass and not a plastic / lexan lens? The plastic types can be polished. http://www.properautocare.com/polplasheadl.html

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> I have a 1999 528i and the glass that covers the headlights is very cloudy, > mostly from what looks like dirt that somehow made its way inside the > headlight, or just the normal aging process of glass.  Has anyone had the > same problem, and can they be removed and cleaned without a lot of effort? > If not, can they be replaced for a minimal cost? > Thanks

I removed the entire assembly, removed the glass lenses and wiped down the inside of the headlight assembly to get rid of a dirty film that had build up.  After polishing the exterior I still could see many, many small pits but the cloudiness was gone.  ( I bought my 97 5′er last year.)  I applied X-Pel headlight protection vinyl covers.  The 3M adhesive on the back of the vinyl film (the material is 40 mils thick) acted like optical cement.  After following the directions (including making up an alcohol/water mix) and allowing time for the application to cure (dry) I noticed the little pits were not visible, even with the headlights on.   Added bonus. SC 00 Z3 97 528i

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thanks for the info.  has anyone priced out replacing these altogether?  I’m curios as to whether it’s worth cleaning them or just replacing them completely.  thanks

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1999 528i and the glass that covers the headlights is very > cloudy, > mostly from what looks like dirt that somehow made its way inside the > headlight, or just the normal aging process of glass.  Has anyone had the > same problem, and can they be removed and cleaned without a lot of effort? > If not, can they be replaced for a minimal cost? > Thanks > I removed the entire assembly, removed the glass lenses and wiped down the > inside of the headlight assembly to get rid of a dirty film that had build > up.  After polishing the exterior I still could see many, many small pits > but the cloudiness was gone.  ( I bought my 97 5′er last year.)  I applied > X-Pel headlight protection vinyl covers.  The 3M adhesive on the back of the > vinyl film (the material is 40 mils thick) acted like optical cement. After > following the directions (including making up an alcohol/water mix) and > allowing time for the application to cure (dry) I noticed the little pits > were not visible, even with the headlights on.   Added bonus. > SC > 00 Z3 > 97 528i

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Do a search on the net for prices or go to a main dealer.. It must take days to replace milk and bread in your household, having to ask others where and how first.. lol

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> thanks for the info.  has anyone priced out replacing these altogether? I’m > curios as to whether it’s worth cleaning them or just replacing them > completely.  thanks > > I have a 1999 528i and the glass that covers the headlights is very > cloudy, > > mostly from what looks like dirt that somehow made its way inside the > > headlight, or just the normal aging process of glass.  Has anyone had > the > > same problem, and can they be removed and cleaned without a lot of > effort? > > If not, can they be replaced for a minimal cost? > > Thanks > I removed the entire assembly, removed the glass lenses and wiped down the > inside of the headlight assembly to get rid of a dirty film that had build > up.  After polishing the exterior I still could see many, many small pits > but the cloudiness was gone.  ( I bought my 97 5′er last year.)  I applied > X-Pel headlight protection vinyl covers.  The 3M adhesive on the back of > the > vinyl film (the material is 40 mils thick) acted like optical cement. > After > following the directions (including making up an alcohol/water mix) and > allowing time for the application to cure (dry) I noticed the little pits > were not visible, even with the headlights on.   Added bonus. > SC > 00 Z3 > 97 528i

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> thanks for the info.  has anyone priced out replacing these altogether? I’m > curios as to whether it’s worth cleaning them or just replacing them > completely.  thanks

Snip Yes, when I bought my 528i from a dealer, one of the conditions of the sale was he repair one of the headlights as the adjustment mechanism was broken causing the light to move about when driving.  He priced a  new replacement at over $300 ea. and I agreed to a used replacement.  Some aftermarket places sell replacements at a lessor cost, but its still considerable outlay vs polishing pads on an electric drill.  I used Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Polish #10 and Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Cleaner #17 (I had these as part of a rear plastic window care kit for my Z3 convertable top). Here’s an example of headlight polishing tips: http://www.properautocare.com/polplasheadl.html http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article19.html http://www.allpar.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=33832 http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/detailing/forum.php?postid=35388… SC 00 Z3 97 528i

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