Question:

>*Should I get metal bullnose corner bead or the type that you mud into >place?  Do you apply mud over the rounded edge, or just along the edges of >the bead?

Metal core bead.  The compound covers everything but the tip of the corner. >*I assume I would need to use paper tape for where the ceiling and wall >drywall meet?

Yes. >*As far as mudding the inside corners, I have heard it’s best to finish one >side at a time?  does this apply after the tape has been set?  (when is it >appropriate to use a corner knife versus a straight blade)

Use a corner knife for the first coat.  Then a 6" blade on the edges for the following coats.   Make sure you run a blade down the dry joint to knock off high spots before the next coat.  This applies to all taping but especially corners, where you tend to get build up. >*I am planning on skimming on mud with a trowel (for a plaster-style texture >look).  Once this is dry, I assume it’s ok to paint over it, or do I need to >use a special drywall primer?

Skimcoating with a trowel takes a very practiced touch.  I’d recommend picking up this device instead: www.drywalltextures.com/magic.htm. Unless you’re a natural at this sort of thing,  I think you’ll get much better results. >* I’ve heard it best to sand between each application of mud.  is 3 coats >standard?

A very light HAND sanding with a sanding screen or sponge sander. You’ll hear some purists tell you that if you laid it down right you don’t need sanding.  Problem is, that  takes a lot of experience. I’ve been taping joints for 20 years and I still have to sand occasionally.  And if the pros never had to sand they wouldn’t make those expensive drywall sander/vacs. On the final coat, wet sand with a damp sponge to feather out the edges. As someone else said, working with a side light will help you to get smooth joints. Keep your tools clean.  Keep a large bucket of water nearby to rinse off the blades when they start getting gritty.  Always work from a pallette or tray, never from the bucket.  By the same token, never return unused compound back to the bucket. It’s standard practice to finish a joint in three passes.  Ignore this. It may take you four or five as a beginner.  Keep the coats thin. Steve Manes, Brooklyn, USA www.magpie.com

Response:

Hi Tim, My advice is not about the drywall or finishing.  Making for easier cleanup when you are done.  Before starting drywall project, get some roofing tar paper (lightweight) and tape it all down over your floors.  (Better than drop cloths, etc.  Has enough weight of it’s own to not be a trip hazard) Up close to the walls.  Believe me, the little bit of extra time putting this down will save you tons of work later.  Just as all the previous posters say the more mud the better, the extra mud usually splats on the floor. Perry bentcajungirl

Response:

Place a light source very close to the walls.  The light pattern will show you just how true to a flat surface you are maintaining.  After you’re done, you’ll never have that extreme a light condition again so the walls, ceiling will look perfect.                        - Robert – – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I am going to remodel my kitchen and will need to install drywall on the >walls and ceiling (I am tearing down the old plaster to run new electrical, >plumbing, etc.)    The kitchen is a basic galley style with a bay window. >The length of kitchen is about 16′ and the width is 8.5′ (except for a >recessed area which is 10′ wide).  Everything is at right angles and the >ceiling is a standard 8′,  The surface area of the walls is about 375 ft2 >and the ceiling is 150 ft2 for a total of 475ft2 of board.  I am planning on >1/2" green board for the walls and 5/8" standard drywall for the ceiling (or >green board?).  I am planning on hanging the wall sheets horizontally where >possible and perpendicular to the ceiling joists.  There are 2 outside >corners which I would like to finish with bullnose corner bead.  I am >planning on buying a good 6" knife and a 10" knife for finishing.  Paper >tape for the inside corners and mesh tape for the seams.  (hopefully this >all sounds ok) >I had a few questions about this project… >*Should I get metal bullnose corner bead or the type that you mud into >place?  Do you apply mud over the rounded edge, or just along the edges of >the bead? >*I assume I would need to use paper tape for where the ceiling and wall >drywall meet? >*As far as mudding the inside corners, I have heard it’s best to finish one >side at a time?  does this apply after the tape has been set?  (when is it >appropriate to use a corner knife versus a straight blade) >*I am planning on skimming on mud with a trowel (for a plaster-style texture >look).  Once this is dry, I assume it’s ok to paint over it, or do I need to >use a special drywall primer? >* I’ve heard it best to sand between each application of mud.  is 3 coats >standard? >any tips / tricks would be great.   I’m guessing it will take 4-5 days to do >this.  any thoughts or advice?  thanks a million. >-Tim

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Response:

I just caught in your message… The green board has a different requirement for support on the ceilings.  I think you may need 12" between centers for green board.  Check out the code. Carl – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >thanks for all the tips! > I am going to remodel my kitchen and will need to install drywall on the > walls and ceiling (I am tearing down the old plaster to run new >electrical, > plumbing, etc.)    The kitchen is a basic galley style with a bay window. > The length of kitchen is about 16′ and the width is 8.5′ (except for a > recessed area which is 10′ wide).  Everything is at right angles and the > ceiling is a standard 8′,  The surface area of the walls is about 375 ft2 > and the ceiling is 150 ft2 for a total of 475ft2 of board.  I am planning >on > 1/2" green board for the walls and 5/8" standard drywall for the ceiling >(or > green board?).  I am planning on hanging the wall sheets horizontally >where > possible and perpendicular to the ceiling joists.  There are 2 outside > corners which I would like to finish with bullnose corner bead.  I am > planning on buying a good 6" knife and a 10" knife for finishing.  Paper > tape for the inside corners and mesh tape for the seams.  (hopefully this > all sounds ok) > I had a few questions about this project… > *Should I get metal bullnose corner bead or the type that you mud into > place?  Do you apply mud over the rounded edge, or just along the edges of > the bead? > *I assume I would need to use paper tape for where the ceiling and wall > drywall meet? > *As far as mudding the inside corners, I have heard it’s best to finish >one > side at a time?  does this apply after the tape has been set?  (when is it > appropriate to use a corner knife versus a straight blade) > *I am planning on skimming on mud with a trowel (for a plaster-style >texture > look).  Once this is dry, I assume it’s ok to paint over it, or do I need >to > use a special drywall primer? > * I’ve heard it best to sand between each application of mud.  is 3 coats > standard? > any tips / tricks would be great.   I’m guessing it will take 4-5 days to >do > this.  any thoughts or advice?  thanks a million. > -Tim

Response:

thanks for all the tips!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am going to remodel my kitchen and will need to install drywall on the > walls and ceiling (I am tearing down the old plaster to run new electrical, > plumbing, etc.)    The kitchen is a basic galley style with a bay window. > The length of kitchen is about 16′ and the width is 8.5′ (except for a > recessed area which is 10′ wide).  Everything is at right angles and the > ceiling is a standard 8′,  The surface area of the walls is about 375 ft2 > and the ceiling is 150 ft2 for a total of 475ft2 of board.  I am planning on > 1/2" green board for the walls and 5/8" standard drywall for the ceiling (or > green board?).  I am planning on hanging the wall sheets horizontally where > possible and perpendicular to the ceiling joists.  There are 2 outside > corners which I would like to finish with bullnose corner bead.  I am > planning on buying a good 6" knife and a 10" knife for finishing.  Paper > tape for the inside corners and mesh tape for the seams.  (hopefully this > all sounds ok) > I had a few questions about this project… > *Should I get metal bullnose corner bead or the type that you mud into > place?  Do you apply mud over the rounded edge, or just along the edges of > the bead? > *I assume I would need to use paper tape for where the ceiling and wall > drywall meet? > *As far as mudding the inside corners, I have heard it’s best to finish one > side at a time?  does this apply after the tape has been set?  (when is it > appropriate to use a corner knife versus a straight blade) > *I am planning on skimming on mud with a trowel (for a plaster-style texture > look).  Once this is dry, I assume it’s ok to paint over it, or do I need to > use a special drywall primer? > * I’ve heard it best to sand between each application of mud.  is 3 coats > standard? > any tips / tricks would be great.   I’m guessing it will take 4-5 days to do > this.  any thoughts or advice?  thanks a million. > -Tim

Response:

I had just had a drywall crew in my house.  When it came to the corners and ceilings they spared no  mud!  The guy even had a corner roller that he used to slop the mud into the corners and ceiling seams.  He then put his tape on and smoothed it all out.  A lot of mud came out (have your trowel and hock ready) when he did this but you know a lot of mud stayed behind the tape! Don’t skimp here.  Your whole taping job will depend on it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am going to remodel my kitchen and will need to install drywall on the > walls and ceiling (I am tearing down the old plaster to run new electrical, > plumbing, etc.)    The kitchen is a basic galley style with a bay window. > The length of kitchen is about 16′ and the width is 8.5′ (except for a > recessed area which is 10′ wide).  Everything is at right angles and the > ceiling is a standard 8′,  The surface area of the walls is about 375 ft2 > and the ceiling is 150 ft2 for a total of 475ft2 of board.  I am planning on > 1/2" green board for the walls and 5/8" standard drywall for the ceiling (or > green board?).  I am planning on hanging the wall sheets horizontally where > possible and perpendicular to the ceiling joists.  There are 2 outside > corners which I would like to finish with bullnose corner bead.  I am > planning on buying a good 6" knife and a 10" knife for finishing.  Paper > tape for the inside corners and mesh tape for the seams.  (hopefully this > all sounds ok) > I had a few questions about this project… > *Should I get metal bullnose corner bead or the type that you mud into > place?  Do you apply mud over the rounded edge, or just along the edges of > the bead? > *I assume I would need to use paper tape for where the ceiling and wall > drywall meet? > *As far as mudding the inside corners, I have heard it’s best to finish one > side at a time?  does this apply after the tape has been set?  (when is it > appropriate to use a corner knife versus a straight blade) > *I am planning on skimming on mud with a trowel (for a plaster-style texture > look).  Once this is dry, I assume it’s ok to paint over it, or do I need to > use a special drywall primer? > * I’ve heard it best to sand between each application of mud.  is 3 coats > standard? > any tips / tricks would be great.   I’m guessing it will take 4-5 days to do > this.  any thoughts or advice?  thanks a million. > -Tim > People complain about the inside corners cracking on their sheet rock. > neighbor next door complained that big trucks were passing on the street > and causing it.. old time sheet rock man told me that the reason why you > get cracks in the inside walls is that there was not enough mud(sheet > rock mud) was not put into the crack before you put the tape on.  if you > dont have enough mud thats behind the tape it dries out and is pretty > thin and cracks open….

Response:

Tim, Go to http://www.usg.com and download their 7 meg hand book. At home depot they sell metal studs from a company called Bailey or something like that. Get their web page and read up on it. You’ll have a first class job. Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > any tips / tricks would be great.   I’m guessing it will take 4-5 days to do > this.  any thoughts or advice?  thanks a million.

Response:

I’m a first time drywaller myself.  I found the paper faced metal corner beads very easy to install on the inside corners.  The special inside corner knife really helped too.  The best $10 I’ve spent on a tool. (this week, that is <g>) Some links I used: http://www.usg.com/Expert_Advice/3_5_homeanswr_center.asp http://www.familyhandyman.com/200104/features/dt/index.html http://www.hometime.com/projects/conbasic.htm HTH, Paul

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am going to remodel my kitchen and will need to install drywall on the > walls and ceiling (I am tearing down the old plaster to run new electrical, > plumbing, etc.)    The kitchen is a basic galley style with a bay window. > The length of kitchen is about 16′ and the width is 8.5′ (except for a > recessed area which is 10′ wide).  Everything is at right angles and the > ceiling is a standard 8′,  The surface area of the walls is about 375 ft2 > and the ceiling is 150 ft2 for a total of 475ft2 of board.  I am planning on > 1/2" green board for the walls and 5/8" standard drywall for the ceiling (or > green board?).  I am planning on hanging the wall sheets horizontally where > possible and perpendicular to the ceiling joists.  There are 2 outside > corners which I would like to finish with bullnose corner bead.  I am > planning on buying a good 6" knife and a 10" knife for finishing.  Paper > tape for the inside corners and mesh tape for the seams.  (hopefully this > all sounds ok) > I had a few questions about this project… > *Should I get metal bullnose corner bead or the type that you mud into > place?  Do you apply mud over the rounded edge, or just along the edges of > the bead? > *I assume I would need to use paper tape for where the ceiling and wall > drywall meet? > *As far as mudding the inside corners, I have heard it’s best to finish one > side at a time?  does this apply after the tape has been set?  (when is it > appropriate to use a corner knife versus a straight blade) > *I am planning on skimming on mud with a trowel (for a plaster-style texture > look).  Once this is dry, I assume it’s ok to paint over it, or do I need to > use a special drywall primer? > * I’ve heard it best to sand between each application of mud.  is 3 coats > standard? > any tips / tricks would be great.   I’m guessing it will take 4-5 days to do > this.  any thoughts or advice?  thanks a million. > -Tim

Response:

> I had a few questions about this project

Everyone has preferences.  These are mine. > *Should I get metal bullnose corner bead or the type that you > mud into place?  Do you apply mud over the rounded edge, or just > along the edges of the bead?

Yes metal.  Cover all of it with mud. > *I assume I would need to use paper tape for where the ceiling > and wall drywall meet?

Use paper tape throughout. Corners and ceiling-wall joints MUST be paper. > *As far as mudding the inside corners, I have heard it’s best to > finish one side at a time?  does this apply after the tape has > been set?  (when is it appropriate to use a corner knife versus > a straight blade)

Bed the tape in the mud and do the first coat on both sides.  See how much of a mess you make.  If you’re having problems, it one side at a time after that.  A corner knife works well if you are very experienced with it.  If not, go with your standard knife. > *I am planning on skimming on mud with a trowel (for a > plaster-style texture look).  Once this is dry, I assume it’s ok > to paint over it, or do I need to use a special drywall primer?

Wow!  If you want a plaster look, use blue board and have a plasterer finish with plaster.  I don’t think your skim coat gets you anything at all.  Yes, use a drywall primer, and never go back over a spot until it’s dry or you will remove mud. > * I’ve heard it best to sand between each application of mud. > is 3 coats standard?

Actually, it’s better to sand only after the last coat, but that implies that you have enough self-restraint to use thin, even coats for the first two.  Most beginners don’t.  It’s really an art that takes a while to learn.  Ideally, you will only have knife lines that you can remove with the knife after they are dry (beginners try to get rid of the lines while the mud is wet and screw up the rest of the work doing it).  If you get too much mud on, consider wet sanding with a damp sponge for the first two coats. Really, you shouldn’t get too hung up about the 3 coat thing.  A good pro can finish with two.  You’re better off doing three or four, and certainly, after you put the primer on, going around and touching up with more mud as needed.  When in doubt, err on the side of too little mud for each coat (except bedding the tape).   Sanding is a real b****! — Doug Boulter To reply by e-mail, remove the obvious word from the e-mail address

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am going to remodel my kitchen and will need to install drywall on the > walls and ceiling (I am tearing down the old plaster to run new electrical, > plumbing, etc.)    The kitchen is a basic galley style with a bay window. > The length of kitchen is about 16′ and the width is 8.5′ (except for a > recessed area which is 10′ wide).  Everything is at right angles and the > ceiling is a standard 8′,  The surface area of the walls is about 375 ft2 > and the ceiling is 150 ft2 for a total of 475ft2 of board.  I am planning on > 1/2" green board for the walls and 5/8" standard drywall for the ceiling (or > green board?).  I am planning on hanging the wall sheets horizontally where > possible and perpendicular to the ceiling joists.  There are 2 outside > corners which I would like to finish with bullnose corner bead.  I am > planning on buying a good 6" knife and a 10" knife for finishing.  Paper > tape for the inside corners and mesh tape for the seams.  (hopefully this > all sounds ok) > I had a few questions about this project… > *Should I get metal bullnose corner bead or the type that you mud into > place?  Do you apply mud over the rounded edge, or just along the edges of > the bead? > *I assume I would need to use paper tape for where the ceiling and wall > drywall meet? > *As far as mudding the inside corners, I have heard it’s best to finish one > side at a time?  does this apply after the tape has been set?  (when is it > appropriate to use a corner knife versus a straight blade) > *I am planning on skimming on mud with a trowel (for a plaster-style texture > look).  Once this is dry, I assume it’s ok to paint over it, or do I need to > use a special drywall primer? > * I’ve heard it best to sand between each application of mud.  is 3 coats > standard? > any tips / tricks would be great.   I’m guessing it will take 4-5 days to do > this.  any thoughts or advice?  thanks a million. > -Tim

People complain about the inside corners cracking on their sheet rock. neighbor next door complained that big trucks were passing on the street and causing it.. old time sheet rock man told me that the reason why you get cracks in the inside walls is that there was not enough mud(sheet rock mud) was not put into the crack before you put the tape on.  if you dont have enough mud thats behind the tape it dries out and is pretty thin and cracks open….

Response:

I am going to remodel my kitchen and will need to install drywall on the walls and ceiling (I am tearing down the old plaster to run new electrical, plumbing, etc.)    The kitchen is a basic galley style with a bay window. The length of kitchen is about 16′ and the width is 8.5′ (except for a recessed area which is 10′ wide).  Everything is at right angles and the ceiling is a standard 8′,  The surface area of the walls is about 375 ft2 and the ceiling is 150 ft2 for a total of 475ft2 of board.  I am planning on 1/2" green board for the walls and 5/8" standard drywall for the ceiling (or green board?).  I am planning on hanging the wall sheets horizontally where possible and perpendicular to the ceiling joists.  There are 2 outside corners which I would like to finish with bullnose corner bead.  I am planning on buying a good 6" knife and a 10" knife for finishing.  Paper tape for the inside corners and mesh tape for the seams.  (hopefully this all sounds ok) I had a few questions about this project… *Should I get metal bullnose corner bead or the type that you mud into place?  Do you apply mud over the rounded edge, or just along the edges of the bead? *I assume I would need to use paper tape for where the ceiling and wall drywall meet? *As far as mudding the inside corners, I have heard it’s best to finish one side at a time?  does this apply after the tape has been set?  (when is it appropriate to use a corner knife versus a straight blade) *I am planning on skimming on mud with a trowel (for a plaster-style texture look).  Once this is dry, I assume it’s ok to paint over it, or do I need to use a special drywall primer? * I’ve heard it best to sand between each application of mud.  is 3 coats standard? any tips / tricks would be great.   I’m guessing it will take 4-5 days to do this.  any thoughts or advice?  thanks a million. -Tim

Response: