Posts belonging to Category 'Electric Window Switch'

Thinking Of Buying A New 530d

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> No problem with my gearchanges.  Took the car to the dealer THursday for oil > top up and headlight adjustment, all covered by service plan, and they > washed all the bugs off the front too( and the rest of the car.)  Must say > the service is much improved from my last experience when I first got my > 330.  I had emails off to BMW NZ etc then, guess I wasn’t the only one > complaining. I suppose I should let BMW NZ know my thoughts now too. > My CD "problem appears to be related to having put a CD in the dash mounted > drive. This is the CD it plays, whenever it does it when I’m not expecting, > and it plays from the start. > Are you happy with your car now? ( and service experience?) > Leong

Not happy…gearchange is just slightly better, but it’s far from perfect. They replaced On Board Monitor (apparently there’s recall – mine was working fine). Power steering is having the same vibration and I am getting some rattles from the back….I had to have tracking unit installed and surely they didn’t put everything together properly. Will follow up with dealership tomorrow about this gearchange, I am still driving in manual mode all the time.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Not happy…gearchange is just slightly better, > but it’s far from perfect. > They replaced On Board Monitor (apparently > there’s recall – mine was working fine). > Power steering is having the same vibration and > I am getting some rattles from the back….I had to > have tracking unit installed and surely they didn’t > put everything together properly. > Will follow up with dealership tomorrow > about this gearchange, I am still driving in > manual mode all the time.

I hope you have a good service advisor, who will keep working on it till the problem’s resolved, now that it’s obvious that it won’t be done right first time!! Leong

Response:

> Took it for a software upgrade this morning, it will be at the dealership > until > Thursday, apparently they need some new parts (for a software fix). Will > post > if gearchange is okay when I get it back. Your car changes fine ? > Alex

No problem with my gearchanges.  Took the car to the dealer THursday for oil top up and headlight adjustment, all covered by service plan, and they washed all the bugs off the front too( and the rest of the car.)  Must say the service is much improved from my last experience when I first got my 330.  I had emails off to BMW NZ etc then, guess I wasn’t the only one complaining. I suppose I should let BMW NZ know my thoughts now too. My CD "problem appears to be related to having put a CD in the dash mounted drive. This is the CD it plays, whenever it does it when I’m not expecting, and it plays from the start. Are you happy with your car now? ( and service experience?) Leong

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > Do you find some sort of vibration on the steering wheel when you try > to > > > quickly go from one lock to the other ? > > > Alex > > > 2004 530dA > > I have to do this every work day morning, ie a lock to lock three point > > turn, but cringe at the thought of doing this quickly, especially if the > > car’s moving very slowly.  haven’t noticed any vibration before or this > > morning after reading your post. Is this something you’ve experienced, > or > > heard/read? > > Leong > Quickly… say over 3 seconds…. > I have vibration, like when the belt is slipping. > But it’s not…thinking of that motor in active steering > or the rack dealing with extra pressure. > Car going for software upgrade tomorrow morning (software ver. > 11.something), > that should cure bluetooth pairing and jerk when shifting > from 2nd to 1st in D. Did you notice that ? > Alex > That extra pressure is what I’d be concerned about in the long term. Don’t > know the mechanics in these new cars, but the extra load could cause more > wear and lead to sloppy steering later on. > I haven’t had any issues with bluetooth, except that it won’t connect if my > phone, SE630, is not in "ready" state.  ie if I forget to use the keylock, > and have some accidental keypresses on the screen. Put phone back to ready > and it connects.  I love how accurately the voice control works!! > Must say my cars gearchanges are more "sporty" than the demonstrators I have > driven, even in D.  ie holds the gears longer etc and changeds down readily, > even with small throttle openings.  I would prefer if it changed earlier (in > D) and used it’s torque, and save the sport for sport mode.  I had issues > with a very harsh change from 3rd to 2nd in my 330i, (2002), if coming to a > stop in "manual" mode. Easily cured by the dealer.  Haven’t used manual mode > much so far, as I have been trying to keep under 3500rpm for the first > 2500km.  It’s so easy to go over 3500 without realising…. > My car thinks I want the CD player on everytime I start the car, haven’t > figured out how to change this yet, any clues? > Leong

Defaults to CD even if FM was on ? Not the case with mine. Re pressure – I have motorplan warranty 100.000km or 5 years, all wear, tear and maintenance covered by BMW. So, if something fails I will get it replaced. I am not going to worry about it too much if it doesn’t get worse. Due to this harsh gearchange I have been driving in manual from the start (6000km, just over 2 months old)…it is fantastic… from 2000rpm to 3000rpm with all the sounds of turbo and induction. You have to try it :) I am using 6310i Nokia….works fine but sometimes I have to pair – phone is used exclusively in the car. How is your oil consumption – I used 2l over first 3000km, now on 6000km, but oil level didn’t change. Alex

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Defaults to CD even if FM was on ? > Not the case with mine. > Re pressure – I have motorplan warranty 100.000km or > 5 years, all wear, tear and maintenance covered by BMW. > So, if something fails I will get it replaced. I am not going to > worry about it too much if it doesn’t get worse. > Due to this harsh gearchange I have been driving in manual from > the start (6000km, just over 2 months old)…it is fantastic… > from 2000rpm to 3000rpm with all the sounds of turbo and induction. > You have to try it :) > I am using 6310i Nokia….works fine but sometimes I have to > pair – phone is used exclusively in the car. > How is your oil consumption – I used 2l over first 3000km, > now on 6000km, but oil level didn’t change. > Alex > No, remembers the source, but always comes on, even if was off last time…. > Those gearchanges must be real harsh.  I used to drive my 330i in manual > mode most of the time, much more fun and responsive, but this diesel engine > wants to rev, and the times I have used the manual mode, I have accidentally > used more than the 3500rpm recommended at run in ( I know I should pay more > attention…but it’s really easy to do).  Now we’re through the run in > period I’ll use it more without feeling guilty about the revs. > At 2600km I’ve used about half way betn the markings on the dipstick.  We > have 3 yr maintenance plans included with the car, so the dealer prefers to > check the oil and refill themselves.  Handy if you live/work close to the > dealer. > Been getting just over 7l/100km on the open road, and 9 around town.  I’ve > heard diesel engines don’t perform best till around 10,000 km, interested to > know if economy will be better with more miles too. > Leong

No, gearchanges are okay, there’s a jerk only from 2nd to 1st, in D, if I shift manually it is all okay. So, oil consumption is more less the same – as it stopped I am not worried about that. Diesel consumption is also about the same…on first tank it was 11l/100km, now it’s 9.1 on average, I had a long drive on motorway, about 220 km, it was 6.8 and I was doing anything up to 210km/h (3000 rpm). Took it for a software upgrade this morning, it will be at the dealership until Thursday, apparently they need some new parts (for a software fix). Will post if gearchange is okay when I get it back. Your car changes fine ? Alex

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Defaults to CD even if FM was on ? > Not the case with mine. > Re pressure – I have motorplan warranty 100.000km or > 5 years, all wear, tear and maintenance covered by BMW. > So, if something fails I will get it replaced. I am not going to > worry about it too much if it doesn’t get worse. > Due to this harsh gearchange I have been driving in manual from > the start (6000km, just over 2 months old)…it is fantastic… > from 2000rpm to 3000rpm with all the sounds of turbo and induction. > You have to try it :) > I am using 6310i Nokia….works fine but sometimes I have to > pair – phone is used exclusively in the car. > How is your oil consumption – I used 2l over first 3000km, > now on 6000km, but oil level didn’t change. > Alex

No, remembers the source, but always comes on, even if was off last time…. Those gearchanges must be real harsh.  I used to drive my 330i in manual mode most of the time, much more fun and responsive, but this diesel engine wants to rev, and the times I have used the manual mode, I have accidentally used more than the 3500rpm recommended at run in ( I know I should pay more attention…but it’s really easy to do).  Now we’re through the run in period I’ll use it more without feeling guilty about the revs. At 2600km I’ve used about half way betn the markings on the dipstick.  We have 3 yr maintenance plans included with the car, so the dealer prefers to check the oil and refill themselves.  Handy if you live/work close to the dealer. Been getting just over 7l/100km on the open road, and 9 around town.  I’ve heard diesel engines don’t perform best till around 10,000 km, interested to know if economy will be better with more miles too. Leong

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Do you find some sort of vibration on the steering wheel when you try to > > quickly go from one lock to the other ? > > Alex > > 2004 530dA > I have to do this every work day morning, ie a lock to lock three point > turn, but cringe at the thought of doing this quickly, especially if the > car’s moving very slowly.  haven’t noticed any vibration before or this > morning after reading your post. Is this something you’ve experienced, or > heard/read? > Leong > Quickly… say over 3 seconds…. > I have vibration, like when the belt is slipping. > But it’s not…thinking of that motor in active steering > or the rack dealing with extra pressure. > Car going for software upgrade tomorrow morning (software ver. > 11.something), > that should cure bluetooth pairing and jerk when shifting > from 2nd to 1st in D. Did you notice that ? > Alex

That extra pressure is what I’d be concerned about in the long term.  Don’t know the mechanics in these new cars, but the extra load could cause more wear and lead to sloppy steering later on. I haven’t had any issues with bluetooth, except that it won’t connect if my phone, SE630, is not in "ready" state.  ie if I forget to use the keylock, and have some accidental keypresses on the screen. Put phone back to ready and it connects.  I love how accurately the voice control works!! Must say my cars gearchanges are more "sporty" than the demonstrators I have driven, even in D.  ie holds the gears longer etc and changeds down readily, even with small throttle openings.  I would prefer if it changed earlier (in D) and used it’s torque, and save the sport for sport mode.  I had issues with a very harsh change from 3rd to 2nd in my 330i, (2002), if coming to a stop in "manual" mode. Easily cured by the dealer.  Haven’t used manual mode much so far, as I have been trying to keep under 3500rpm for the first 2500km.  It’s so easy to go over 3500 without realising…. My car thinks I want the CD player on everytime I start the car, haven’t figured out how to change this yet, any clues? Leong

Response:

> Do you find some sort of vibration on the steering wheel when you try to > quickly go from one lock to the other ? > Alex > 2004 530dA

I have to do this every work day morning, ie a lock to lock three point turn, but cringe at the thought of doing this quickly, especially if the car’s moving very slowly.  haven’t noticed any vibration before or this morning after reading your post. Is this something you’ve experienced, or heard/read? Leong

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Do you find some sort of vibration on the steering wheel when you try to > quickly go from one lock to the other ? > Alex > 2004 530dA > I have to do this every work day morning, ie a lock to lock three point > turn, but cringe at the thought of doing this quickly, especially if the > car’s moving very slowly.  haven’t noticed any vibration before or this > morning after reading your post. Is this something you’ve experienced, or > heard/read? > Leong

Quickly… say over 3 seconds…. I have vibration, like when the belt is slipping. But it’s not…thinking of that motor in active steering or the rack dealing with extra pressure. Car going for software upgrade tomorrow morning (software ver. 11.something), that should cure bluetooth pairing and jerk when shifting from 2nd to 1st in D. Did you notice that ? Alex

Response:

> Hi All > Would Like Any Info > Regards > Jb > Well, it has a diesel engine, and 370 lb-ft of torque :) . > Seriously, try your local dealer – from your post it is difficult to > pinpoint what exactly you want to know.

It was a 27,000 mile test car for CAR magazine.  The one with the top 100 cars on the front.  This month. They reportedly liked it a lot.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Hi All > > Would Like Any Info > > Regards > > Jb > Well, it has a diesel engine, and 370 lb-ft of torque :) . > Seriously, try your local dealer – from your post it is difficult to > pinpoint what exactly you want to know. > It was a 27,000 mile test car for CAR magazine.  The one with the top 100 > cars on the front.  This month. > They reportedly liked it a lot.

I guess any info you can pick up on BMW website. We all know that majority of people in here dislike it’s looks :-) Alex 530dA Anyone with active steering ?

Response:

> Hi All > Would Like Any Info > Regards > Jb

Warning, extremely long post, read only if interested in purchasing an E60. I’ve had my 530d SE for just over three weeks now, and done 2600km. Returned from a trip to Rotorua this afternoon.  It is easily the best car I’ve owned, (  since 1996, 1996 Audi A4 1.8T, 1997 535iASE, 1999 MB E430 Avantgarde, 2000 330iASE, 2002 330iASE Touring ), so far. When discussing the car with friends, it’s hard to list ALL the things I like about it… they get bored listening after the first few, however when I was considering buying, I couldn’t read enough…. I have a titanium Silver 530d with grey interior, steptronic, with Dynamic Drive, comfort seats, sunroof, bluetooth, and the upgraded stereo as options.  NZ spec is high with Active steering, and headlights, PDC, three auto dipping mirrors, rain sensor, all airbags, 138 wheels, sports steering wheel 379mm, electric seats + s/wheel with memory, std cruise, the top A/C package, lights package all standard, and likely more compared to UK spec ( we get UK brochures) What I like best is the engine.  Performance is on par with my old E430, and 330i, yet the car is bigger than both, and costs half as much (in NZ) to run.  Overtaking on our country roads is a breeze, and I go at least 800km on a tank, compared with 450-500km in the two cars mentioned above ( less if driven hard).  The engine is more flexible in gear than anything I have driven before, except Cayenne Turbo, Carrera…..etc.  The engine revs willingly to redline, and it is in this area that the 530d engine is better than the E320CDi engine. The new 5 is a big car compared to the E39 and New E Class, yet drives like a go kart with Active steering and Dynamic drive.  I stayed with the standard shocks/spring, rather than the sports setup which would result in even better handling but at the expense of ride, (which would be too hard most of the time given our bumpy roads and standard RFTs.)  Having said that, my car does get upset by big bumps mid corner (wallows) that the sports suspension would absorb, however I don’t feel those bumps nearly as much! ( I expect there will be be adjustable air suspension in the future). The dynamic drive keeps the car cornering flat, even if you turn in further when the suspension is already loaded up, and is easily appreciated even on city roads around roundabouts.  Active steering is great when parking, and more especially when driving enthusiastically thru winding roads and hairpin bends.  I’ve read tests where people have questioned the feel and need for correction immediately after initial turn in, but while the steering is reasonably light, you can still feel the level of grip, and I am sure that familiarity will deal with their other issue… which I have not noticed ( it does take some time to get acquainted with the Active Steering ( standard equipment on all New Zealand E60s). The comfort seats are good with no aches and pains after a 4hr 30min drive. Much better than the sports seats with adjustable lumbar on my 330.  The seats have electrically adjustable side bolsters that release you when you switch off the engine, and hug you when you start it, much like the steering wheel adjusts to let you get out easily.  I have a tall friend who has difficulty getting comfortable in cars, and he loved the way the seats could be lowered so he didn’t hit his head on the roof, even with a sunroof present.  He also appreciated the adjustable length to the seat squab, which I don’t need to use!. The way the indicator, high beam, and wiper switches work ie press to activate then stalk returns to central position, works a treat.  Those with small hands can always reach the stalk cos it’s in the same place, and your auto bixenon  headlights can’t automatically turn on to high beam!.  The rain sensor switch is also an improvement in that it lets you use the single wipe should you choose to.  ( I believe those who like rainsensors live in climates like ours where the rain is never constant, and those that don’t either live in constant mist and fog ie the UK, or eternal sunshine ie California, but thats just IMO) I could write more about the six speed auto that seems to know what gear you want, though almost all road tests I have read ahve raved about this,  or the fantastic bixenon lights that turn night to day, and now even help you see around bends.  I like the independent ventilator that you can set to ventilate a hot car 30mins before you are due to drive home ( available in the E39 ), and the fact that the remote can lock.unlock and open the windows from a very good distance away, so that you can do it while you walk up to the car, rather than having to wait for it when you get there ( a la MB/E39 ).  I like the standard split fold rear seats that were an expensive option on the E39, and the ski bag, or hole if you take the ski bag module out, can be manipulated to your needs.  The boot also is sprung to open when you open it with the remote, unlike the E39, and like the E430.  The boot is huge too, though mine has a tray and compartment on the left side that earlier E60s didn’t have. I haven’t mentioned the bluetooth phone!! or I Drive!!!  I should mention I Drive as there is so much negative publicity….. I like it because there is so much less dashboard clutter, and most of the controls you use all the time can be controlled by the steering wheel buttons.  There are two user customisable buttons on the steering wheel that you can setup to your liking ( limited options though ) using the Idrive.  I have mine setup to swap between entertainment sources ( this means also that you can switch on the radio/CD etc from the steering wheel ), and the other to swap the other steering wheel buttons between entertainment and telephone.  By doing this you can use the s/wheel buttons most of the time.  The most annoying thing so far is if you want to swap to a different CD in  the stacker.  Previously you just pushed the button 1-6, now its menu ( unless already in main menu )down, down, up, then twirl to the selected CD.  Once in teh entertainment menu however, it is easier to select tracks than before.  Most other functions are less often used once you have the car setup how you like.  Things like whether doors lock automatically, how long the headlight switch off delay is, or whether the car locks again automatically if not opened etc etc yourself can be customised with I drive. You get used to it, then you appreciate the uncomplicated dash everyday.  Personally, the only button I occasionally use on the air conditioner is the air recirculate, when I think that the Auto air recirc might not work quickly enough, otherwise, they almost always stay on the same settings. ( as they should I guess). I think I’d better end here.  If you would like more opinions then let me know, otherwise please excuse my enthusiasm, it is very hard to suppress!! Leong, PS, Only problem so far, there could be more storage bins in the front cabin area, but I’ll just carry less!!

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi All > Would Like Any Info > Regards > Jb > Warning, extremely long post, read only if interested in purchasing an E60. > I’ve had my 530d SE for just over three weeks now, and done 2600km. > Returned from a trip to Rotorua this afternoon.  It is easily the best car > I’ve owned, (  since 1996, 1996 Audi A4 1.8T, 1997 535iASE, 1999 MB E430 > Avantgarde, 2000 330iASE, 2002 330iASE Touring ), so far. > When discussing the car with friends, it’s hard to list ALL the things I > like about it… they get bored listening after the first few, however when > I was considering buying, I couldn’t read enough…. > I have a titanium Silver 530d with grey interior, steptronic, with Dynamic > Drive, comfort seats, sunroof, bluetooth, and the upgraded stereo as > options.  NZ spec is high with Active steering, and headlights, PDC, three > auto dipping mirrors, rain sensor, all airbags, 138 wheels, sports steering > wheel 379mm, electric seats + s/wheel with memory, std cruise, the top A/C > package, lights package all standard, and likely more compared to UK spec > ( we get UK brochures) > What I like best is the engine.  Performance is on par with my old E430, and > 330i, yet the car is bigger than both, and costs half as much (in NZ) to > run.  Overtaking on our country roads is a breeze, and I go at least 800km > on a tank, compared with 450-500km in the two cars mentioned above ( less if > driven hard).  The engine is more flexible in gear than anything I have > driven before, except Cayenne Turbo, Carrera…..etc.  The engine revs > willingly to redline, and it is in this area that the 530d engine is better > than the E320CDi engine. > The new 5 is a big car compared to the E39 and New E Class, yet drives like > a go kart with Active steering and Dynamic drive.  I stayed with the > standard shocks/spring, rather than the sports setup which would result in > even better handling but at the expense of ride, (which would be too hard > most of the time given our bumpy roads and standard RFTs.)  Having said > that, my car does get upset by big bumps mid corner (wallows) that the > sports suspension would absorb, however I don’t feel those bumps nearly as > much! ( I expect there will be be adjustable air suspension in the future). > The dynamic drive keeps the car cornering flat, even if you turn in further > when the suspension is already loaded up, and is easily appreciated even on > city roads around roundabouts.  Active steering is great when parking, and > more especially when driving enthusiastically thru winding roads and hairpin > bends.  I’ve read tests where people have questioned the feel and need for > correction immediately after initial turn in, but while the steering is > reasonably light, you can still feel the level of grip, and I am sure that > familiarity will deal with their other issue… which I have not noticed ( > it does take some time to get acquainted with the Active Steering ( standard > equipment on all New Zealand E60s). > The comfort seats are good with no aches and pains after a 4hr 30min drive. > Much better than the sports seats with adjustable lumbar on my 330.  The > seats have electrically adjustable side bolsters that release you when you > switch off the engine, and hug you when you start it, much like the steering > wheel adjusts to let you get out easily.  I have a tall friend who has > difficulty getting comfortable in cars, and he loved the way the seats could > be lowered so he didn’t hit his head on the roof, even with a sunroof > present.  He also appreciated the adjustable length to the seat squab, which > I don’t need to use!. > The way the indicator, high beam, and wiper switches work ie press to > activate then stalk returns to central position, works a treat.  Those with > small hands can always reach the stalk cos it’s in the same place, and your > auto bixenon  headlights can’t automatically turn on to high beam!.  The > rain sensor switch is also an improvement in that it lets you use the single > wipe should you choose to.  ( I believe those who like rainsensors live in > climates like ours where the rain is never constant, and those that don’t > either live in constant mist and fog ie the UK, or eternal sunshine ie > California, but thats just IMO) > I could write more about the six speed auto that seems to know what gear you > want, though almost all road tests I have read ahve raved about this,  or > the fantastic bixenon lights that turn night to day, and now even help you > see around bends.  I like the independent ventilator that you can set to > ventilate a hot car 30mins before you are due to drive home ( available in > the E39 ), and the fact that the remote can lock.unlock and open the windows > from a very good distance away, so that you can do it while you walk up to > the car, rather than having to wait for it when you get there ( a la > MB/E39 ).  I like the standard split fold rear seats that were an expensive > option on the E39, and the ski bag, or hole if you take the ski bag module > out, can be manipulated to your needs.  The boot also is sprung to open when > you open it with the remote, unlike the E39, and like the E430.  The boot is > huge too, though mine has a tray and compartment on the left side that > earlier E60s didn’t have. > I haven’t mentioned the bluetooth phone!! or I Drive!!!  I should mention I > Drive as there is so much negative publicity….. I like it because there is > so much less dashboard clutter, and most of the controls you use all the > time can be controlled by the steering wheel buttons.  There are two user > customisable buttons on the steering wheel that you can setup to your liking > ( limited options though ) using the Idrive.  I have mine setup to swap > between entertainment sources ( this means also that you can switch on the > radio/CD etc from the steering wheel ), and the other to swap the other > steering wheel buttons between entertainment and telephone.  By doing this > you can use the s/wheel buttons most of the time.  The most annoying thing > so far is if you want to swap to a different CD in  the stacker. Previously > you just pushed the button 1-6, now its menu ( unless already in main > menu )down, down, up, then twirl to the selected CD.  Once in teh > entertainment menu however, it is easier to select tracks than before. Most > other functions are less often used once you have the car setup how you > like.  Things like whether doors lock automatically, how long the headlight > switch off delay is, or whether the car locks again automatically if not > opened etc etc yourself can be customised with I drive. You get used to it, > then you appreciate the uncomplicated dash everyday.  Personally, the only > button I occasionally use on the air conditioner is the air recirculate, > when I think that the Auto air recirc might not work quickly enough, > otherwise, they almost always stay on the same settings. ( as they should I > guess). > I think I’d better end here.  If you would like more opinions then let me > know, otherwise please excuse my enthusiasm, it is very hard to suppress!! > Leong, > PS, Only problem so far, there could be more storage bins in the front cabin > area, but I’ll just carry less!!

Do you find some sort of vibration on the steering wheel when you try to quickly go from one lock to the other ? Alex 2004 530dA

Response:

Hi All Would Like Any Info Regards Jb

Response:

> Hi All > Would Like Any Info > Regards > Jb

Well, it has a diesel engine, and 370 lb-ft of torque :) . Seriously, try your local dealer – from your post it is difficult to pinpoint what exactly you want to know.

Response:

> Hi All > Would Like Any Info > Regards > Jb > Well, it has a diesel engine, and 370 lb-ft of torque :) . > Seriously, try your local dealer – from your post it is difficult to > pinpoint what exactly you want to know.

Actually there is a guy who posts to this ng who owns a 530d and may respond to your questions with a more proportioned perspective than a dealer. Stick around and see if he looks in an catches your post.

Response:

1985 325e electrical problems

Question:

It’s behind the panel holding the driver’s side speaker, on my 85 318.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Could someome advise me on the location of a fuse for the windows and > interior lights or an online sight for downloading manuals for my bmw >Fuses 19,21, & 27 concern the interior lights.  The main fuse for the two >dome lights is 21.  27 & 19 go through the light timer controller. >Fuse 17 is for the windows & sunroof.  The dash mounted window circuit >breaker is the second item in the chain.  There’s also a rear window >safety switch before the rear window motors. >And yes, there was a complete scan of the electrical troubleshooting >manual online at one time (I saw it).  I bought the manual because I have >an ‘85 325e and 318i.  There’s one known mistake in the Aux Fan circuit of >the manual I’ve found so far.

  Light timer controller??? Would this part be found in an 89 325i? I am assuming this would fade the lights out or just shut them off ofter a given amount of time after the doors were closed. If present, where would I find it?

Response:

> Could someome advise me on the location of a fuse for the windows and > interior lights or an online sight for downloading manuals for my bmw

Fuses 19,21, & 27 concern the interior lights.  The main fuse for the two dome lights is 21.  27 & 19 go through the light timer controller. Fuse 17 is for the windows & sunroof.  The dash mounted window circuit breaker is the second item in the chain.  There’s also a rear window safety switch before the rear window motors. And yes, there was a complete scan of the electrical troubleshooting manual online at one time (I saw it).  I bought the manual because I have an ‘85 325e and 318i.  There’s one known mistake in the Aux Fan circuit of the manual I’ve found so far.

Response:

ould someome advise me on the location of a fuse for the windows and interior lights or an online sight for downloading manuals for my bmw

Response:

E36 328i Heater Controls – What do the buttons do?

Question:

I recently purchased a 328i in the UK – which arrived without a user manual. I previously ran a 320i which was infinitely more basic and it’s heater control consisted of an Off,1,2,3,4 dial and a Hot/Cold dial – simple! In the 328, I have more options! Theres a link here with a picture I took: http://www.wd01.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/bmw/ Basically, what do the buttons actually *do*. Mainly, I’d like to know what ‘6′ + ‘7′ are. Also, if button ‘3′ is the heater outlet above your feet, what is ‘1′? I assume ‘8′ electrically heats the rear window – with ‘5′ applying only hot air to the front window? Thanks in advance. I should really source myself a manual, although I’ve not really got any questions beyond wondering how to operate this unit properly. Regards, RH

Response:

<SNIP> 1 – Windscreen Dash Vents 2 – Centre Dash Vents 3 – Lower Vents 4 – Auto Climate Control (Set the temp, and the system will maintain it for you added fan as needed) 5 – Front Electric Windscreen 6 – Air Conditioning 7 – Recirculation 8 – Read Electric Windscreen Jason Russell 93 E34 525iSE- 270,000 miles and going strong

Response:

> I recently purchased a 328i in the UK – which arrived without a user > manual.

Same here – although I stumped up the

Frozen window

Question:

Apparently, I damaged the driver’s side ( electric) window when I tried to open it when I did not realize it was frozen. It no longer works. What kind of a repair bill am I looking at? Thanks. Russ

Response:

| Apparently, I damaged the driver’s side ( electric) window when I tried to open | it when I did not realize it was frozen. It no longer works. What kind of a | repair bill am I looking at? | | Thanks. | | Russ You may want to check the fuse first.

Response:

> Apparently, I damaged the driver’s side ( electric) window when I tried to open > it when I did not realize it was frozen. It no longer works. What kind of a > repair bill am I looking at? > Thanks. > Russ

    After trying James’ suggestion, then try holding the down switch activated while you bump your fist around several places on the door panel–I’ve had it break loose the "stuck elec. motor" many times.  And usually does a permanent fix–not just a temporary.   HTH & good luck. sdlomi

Response:

Another stuck window on Audi A6

Question:

I just fixed my two front windows – this is most likely your problem. The window operates with a cable system that locks into plastic sliders if one of the sliders breaks it causes the window to wedge and get stuck. I ordered the sliders from Jeff at vividracing.com part 4B0-837-463-B – buy two even though only one is probably broken. Roll window all the way down if possible, Remove the panel – one screw to remove on each side of panel – small phillips. Lift panel gently. pay attention to all the wires – mark them then disconnect all wires and door latch. Remove swicth by inserting small phillips into hole under handle and press tab to release. Remove inside door frame by removing four star bolts. Also gently pry off the rubber dams on the top side ofconnecting the door and inner frame. Remove tiny phillips screw on dam near hinge side. Remove the inner frame – lay it on a blanket – replace broken slider and reverse the process. I also cleaned lubed all the cables while I was at it. Reverse the process – remember to reconnect the latch befor you close the door!! Cost $30. — jbhaass jbhaass’s Profile: http://www.audiforum.ca/member.php?userid=10639 View this thread: http://www.audiforum.ca/showthread.php?t=2494

Response:

>Thanks for the reply.  Is there any trick to removing the trim?

OK, that could be a bit lengthy. I’ll try. There is a manual from H.R. Etzold in german "So wird’s gemacht" for the A6 which describes it. Step one might not really be neccessary. In my book it just comes before step 2, but if I look at the drawings, the trim really might come off without step 1 as well. Possibly you can not place it aside then as the switch assy will be connected to the door, but for a first look this could be ok. 1.) Remove the electric window switches: there is a small hole on the internal door handle on the lower front end of the handle under the electric switch assy. You have to insert a flathead screwdriver into that hole until you feel resistance. The screwdriver now is sitting against a plastic nose which snapped the complete switch assy into place. You have to pry the tip of the screwdriver towards the back of the car now. This will press the plastic nose backwards and at the same time you need to press the screwdriver carefully upwards. This pushes the complete assy upwards and out.        |        |door handle       _|_      |  / nose            |I       I       I– screwdriver        |        |door handle     ___|    |  / nose          |I     I     I– screwdriver Disconnect the assembly from the harness, but be careful about the locking mechanisms of the connector. 2.)  Remove the trim High up on the door trim, facing to the front and the back of the car there are two screws. One facing each direction. Unscrew them. Lift the trim some 20 cm up unhooking it at the top. There are several plastic supports at the lower side of the door holding the door in place at that edge. I guess one has to be careful not to break them. — Please note, that I never did that myself but quote from a DIY style book. It does not look that difficult, I just dont have first hand experience with it. >Mark

Regards Wolfgang

Response:

On my car (96 A4Q), the regulator is the cable/pully/lever contraption that guides the window up or down – separate from the window motor that drives it. They can be replaced independently. I’ve had both front regulators replaced (at different times), both due to a broken plastic bracket piece that held the window to the regulator. I think it was about $350 USD each time. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I had this same problem. >Garage replaced the motor. >They recommended I change the regulator as well as they said it was worn and >may cause a problem in the future. >Total bill was over three hundred pounds. nearer 400 actually. >I am now concerned that according to this thread the motor may have had >nothing to do with the problem! >Car has only done 30K miles, 5 yrs old though. >Anyway now if the other side goes I will no what to do. > The "regulator" *is* the "motor".

Response:

Hi, >OK, that could be a bit lengthy. I’ll try. There is a manual from H.R. >Etzold in german "So wird’s gemacht" for the A6 which describes it. >2.)  Remove the trim >High up on the door trim, facing to the front and the back of the car >there are two screws. One facing each direction. Unscrew them. Lift >the trim some 20 cm up unhooking it at the top. There are several >plastic supports at the lower side of the door holding the door in >place at that edge. I guess one has to be careful not to break them.

I have now had a chance to try this but I can’t get the trim off.  I located and removed the two screws.  However the trim does not move even when I apply some force to it.  Any more force and something will break, I believe. Does anyone have any practical experience they would be willing to share? BTW: It’s a Audi A6 Avant ‘99 SE TIA, Mark

Response:

>I had this same problem. >Garage replaced the motor. >They recommended I change the regulator as well as they said it was worn and >may cause a problem in the future. >Total bill was over three hundred pounds. nearer 400 actually. >I am now concerned that according to this thread the motor may have had >nothing to do with the problem! >Car has only done 30K miles, 5 yrs old though. >Anyway now if the other side goes I will no what to do.

The "regulator" *is* the "motor".

Response:

Hi, Thanks to all for the help – I think I’ll have a go at it myself. Cheers, Mark

Response:

I had this same problem. Garage replaced the motor. They recommended I change the regulator as well as they said it was worn and may cause a problem in the future. Total bill was over three hundred pounds. nearer 400 actually. I am now concerned that according to this thread the motor may have had nothing to do with the problem! Car has only done 30K miles, 5 yrs old though. Anyway now if the other side goes I will no what to do. Cheers Stuart

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > Thanks to all for the help – I think I’ll have a go at it myself. > Cheers, > Mark

Response:

>Hi, >A few weeks ago my RHS front window would open but would get stuck >about a third of the way back and then it would reopen fully.  I had >to push the window closed manually.  I took it to my local Audi dealer >and they said it was the seals and regulator and charged me

Condensor fan resistor problem?

Question:

Hi Just had my A/C regassed. It appears that I have a problem with the condenser fan not switching in at idle allowing the system pressure to build worryingly high, got to 25-30bar and the condenser fan did not cut in! Chapie called his buddy who vaguely has heard of a resistor (switch) problem with the bm’s. Anyone know anything about this, or am I going to have to go to the stealership and be fleeced? TIA Silver

Response:

> Just had my A/C regassed. It appears that I have a problem with the > condenser fan not switching in at idle allowing the system pressure to > build worryingly high, got to 25-30bar and the condenser fan did not cut > in! > Chapie called his buddy who vaguely has heard of a resistor (switch) > problem with the bm’s. Anyone know anything about this, or am I going to > have to go to the stealership and be fleeced?

 Might help if you gave age and model.  The aux fan failing is a common problem on E39s. Dunno about others. — *Bills travel through the mail at twice the speed of cheques *      RIP Acorn  

Response:

Sorry. 98 e39 >  Might help if you gave age and model. >  The aux fan failing is a common problem on E39s. Dunno about others.

Is this aux fan the one that will trying to keep the condenser cool? If so then this is the bugger that has failed. TIA Silver

Response:

> Is this aux fan the one that will trying to keep the condenser cool? If > so then this is the bugger that has failed.

 It’s the electric fan mounted in front of the radiator assembly. It should run all the time the air-con is switched on, and has two speeds – the higher one on demand.  First check that it is getting a supply as there is both a relay and resistor involved. However, it’s commonly the motor that has failed.  It’s a bit long winded to change the fan, but not really difficult. The bumper has to come off and the headlamp assemblies. It’s described in the TIS – worth getting a copy.  Worth checking out BMW specialists for a new one – in the UK it costs about 150 gbp. — *A hangover is the wrath of grapes.        RIP Acorn  

Response:

Dave, you are a star! The fan doesn’t come on at all when the aircon is switched on. This will explain why the aircon man was scratching his head when the pressure was rising and he was waiting for the fan to cut in. I shall go and see if their is any current getting to the fan. The aircon man also reckoned that the condenser was the cause of my leak in the refrigerant, (so it will be 180 for the condenser 150 for a fan, geez I think I will roll my window and sod the resultant hair style) Cheers Silver

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Is this aux fan the one that will trying to keep the condenser cool? If > so then this is the bugger that has failed. >  It’s the electric fan mounted in front of the radiator assembly. It > should run all the time the air-con is switched on, and has two speeds – > the higher one on demand. >  First check that it is getting a supply as there is both a relay and > resistor involved. However, it’s commonly the motor that has failed. >  It’s a bit long winded to change the fan, but not really difficult. The > bumper has to come off and the headlamp assemblies. It’s described in the > TIS – worth getting a copy. >  Worth checking out BMW specialists for a new one – in the UK it costs > about 150 gbp. > — > *A hangover is the wrath of grapes. >      RIP Acorn

Response:

> Dave, you are a star!

Heh heh. Most of the common problems and answers come up on the E39 enthusiasts group – you might consider joining. Address below. — *Why isn’t there mouse-flavoured cat food?      528 Auto                                 London SW12 (UK)   Co-Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39

Response:

Hi See if the fan blades are easy to spin round.  If so then it’s probably the resistor – 0.5 ohm 75Watt.  $50 is (

E36 Question

Question:

I have a ‘94 325i and I had a few questions I hope someone can help me with. My only major performance complaint is that on takeoff the real torque doesn’t seem to kick in until 3000 to 3200 rpm in first gear. (it is an automatic) Is this the expected with this car or is mine being abnormal. (I assume it is normal) Will a chip help to increase torque at lower rpm, which one? Also, I noticed that my fog lights are on when the low beams are on and when I switch to high beam the low beams stay on but the fog lights go off. Is there a way to have the fog lights stay on when the high beams are on? Has anyone done this and how difficult is it? This is purely for looks but I think it would be a nice touch. comments? Thanks for your help everyone. KC ‘94 325i

Response:

>I have a ‘94 325i and I had a few questions I hope someone can help me with. >My only major performance complaint is that on takeoff the real torque >doesn’t seem to kick in until 3000 to 3200 rpm in first gear. (it is an >automatic) Is this the expected with this car or is mine being abnormal. (I >assume it is normal) Will a chip help to increase torque at lower rpm, which >one?

Try clicking from A to M and set the gear at 3.  The torque will kick in at around 2500-2800 rpm.  The fuel and clean injectors make a difference.  (I had mine clean up and you can tell the difference.  Always use high octane performace fuel) >Also, I noticed that my fog lights are on when the low beams are on and when >I switch to high beam the low beams stay on but the fog lights go off. Is >there a way to have the fog lights stay on when the high beams are on? Has >anyone done this and how difficult is it? This is purely for looks but I >think it would be a nice touch. comments?

This is wierd.  My E36 has a separate switch and it stays on all the time as long as the switch is turn on. Tom 92 325ia

Response:

>This is wierd.  My E36 has a separate switch and it stays on all the time as >long as the switch is turn on.

I have a switch too and when it is on the fog lights come on when only the running lights are on and stay on when the low beams are on.  They only go off when the high beams are on. Hope this clarifies. KCB ‘94 325i

Response:

>>This is wierd.  My E36 has a separate switch and it stays on all the >time as long as the switch is turn on. >I have a switch too and when it is on the fog lights come on when only >the running lights are on and stay on when the low beams are on.  They >only go off when the high beams are on. Hope this clarifies.

Same here. Sounds like something is wired incorrectly… — Jim Littlefield ‘98 328i

Response:

and HntGzr nearly laughed: > It’s salon, saloon is a place to get a drink.

Only if you’re on a ship.   You must be thinking of a pub. If I had typed sedan would you have tried to be funny then? :-) HntGzr!

Response:

> It’s salon, saloon is a place to get a drink.

In the UK, a salon is where you get your hair cut. Saloon is the spelling for either a car with a fixed roof, a large room, or the ‘posh’ bar in a pub. — *He’s not dead –  he’s electroencephalographically challenged      RIP Acorn  

Response:

> It’s salon, saloon is a place to get a drink. > In the UK, a salon is where you get your hair cut. > Saloon is the spelling for either a car with a fixed roof, a large room, > or the ‘posh’ bar in a pub.

Correct. To quote the Concise Oxford Dictionary: "Saloon 2..N. Amer. historical or humorous a place where alcoholic drinks may be bought and drunk. 3 (also saloon car) Brit. a car having a closed body and separate boot." To quote Winston Churchill: "America and Britian, two countries separated by a common language"

Response:

Yes, and don;t let the dealer replace it.  It took me 5 minutes to replace the bulb in my E36 96.  Dealer wanted $200.  It took some investigating to figure out how to remove the front place , but once I did that it took 5 minutes to replace the bulb. Al Floer

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Dear Group > I have a question with regard to my recently purchased 1996 E36 4dr Saloon: > Is the clock meant to be illuminated like it was in my old E30 when the > lights are on?  Or has the bulb just blown! > TIA > HntGzr!

Response:

Thanks for all your advise (with the exception of the poor joker). Bulb now changed. HntGzr!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Dear Group > I have a question with regard to my recently purchased 1996 E36 4dr Saloon: > Is the clock meant to be illuminated like it was in my old E30 when the > lights are on?  Or has the bulb just blown! > TIA > HntGzr!

Response:

Dear Group I have a question with regard to my recently purchased 1996 E36 4dr Saloon: Is the clock meant to be illuminated like it was in my old E30 when the lights are on?  Or has the bulb just blown! TIA HntGzr!

Response:

Yes and yes. Yes on when the lights are, yes sounds like the bulb.

Response:

It’s salon, saloon is a place to get a drink.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Dear Group > I have a question with regard to my recently purchased 1996 E36 4dr Saloon: > Is the clock meant to be illuminated like it was in my old E30 when the > lights are on?  Or has the bulb just blown! > TIA > HntGzr!

Response:

>Dear Group >I have a question with regard to my recently purchased 1996 E36 4dr Saloon: >Is the clock meant to be illuminated like it was in my old E30 when the >lights are on?  Or has the bulb just blown!

Yes the clock should be illuminated and the bulbs do go on occasion. Same with the electric window switches.

Response:

1990 Audi 90

Question:

I need electrical schematics. 1. Front passenger window wont roll up. 2. Rear driverside window controlled at the door only not at the window cluster on drivers door. 3. Radio works some times, I need removal instructions also. 4. Tape is flakey also. Sometimes it plays and sometimes it does’nt 5. some panel leds wont light, especially the buttons that control the affore mentioned windows. Need help

Response:

> I need electrical schematics. > 1. Front passenger window wont roll up. > 2. Rear driverside window controlled at the door only not at the window > cluster on drivers door. > 3. Radio works some times, I need removal instructions also. > 4. Tape is flakey also. Sometimes it plays and sometimes it does’nt > 5. some panel leds wont light, especially the buttons that control the > affore mentioned windows. > Need help

Look here: http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/elec.html Good luck, Ronald — Outgoing mail is AVG certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

The window problems are very likely bad switches, as are the non-working lights. You can disassemble them, clean the contacts, replace the bulb, and reassemble them. Or you can just buy new switches. There is a removal tool for the radio (cheap). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I need electrical schematics. > 1. Front passenger window wont roll up. > 2. Rear driverside window controlled at the door only not at the window > cluster on drivers door. > 3. Radio works some times, I need removal instructions also. > 4. Tape is flakey also. Sometimes it plays and sometimes it does’nt > 5. some panel leds wont light, especially the buttons that control the > affore mentioned windows. > Need help

Response:

Can I Change The Headlights On With Ignition On A 1999 S10 Blazer ?

Question:

On my 2000 Silverado, the headlights won’t turn on if the emergency brake is on.  In your case just a couple of click of the pedal will probably keep the lights off and not harm your emergency brake. That is what I do to keep the lights off until I am on the street. The Silverado also has an overide button.  By pushing it I think it defeats the auto turn on, but you have to do it after the lights turn off and it resets itself when you turn the key off. Good luck.

Response:

I know someone with a 2000 s10 blazer and he can turn his lights off by pushing the dome override button a few times, it was in his owners manual.  My mom had a 98 blazer and she had to use the parking brake.  it was her in manual to do it that way, the dome override switch wouldnt  do it on hers.>i,  Please HELP. The 1999 S10 Blazer I just bought has the ignition – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->switch activate the headlights. WHY? I leave for work at 4:30 AM  My >neighbors bedroom window is directly across from my driveway. We have >been good friends until now and I would like  to keep it that way. Does >anyone know if you can bypass or eliminate this stupid option without a >major electrical malfunction? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. >THANKS    RAY

Response:

Why not just park so you have to back out instead of pulling out? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I know someone with a 2000 s10 blazer and he can turn his lights off by pushing > the dome override button a few times, it was in his owners manual.  My mom had > a 98 blazer and she had to use the parking brake.  it was her in manual to do > it that way, the dome override switch wouldnt  do it on hers.>i,  Please HELP. > The 1999 S10 Blazer I just bought has the ignition >switch activate the headlights. WHY? I leave for work at 4:30 AM  My >neighbors bedroom window is directly across from my driveway. We have >been good friends until now and I would like  to keep it that way. Does >anyone know if you can bypass or eliminate this stupid option without a >major electrical malfunction? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. >THANKS    RAY

Response:

> Hi,  Please HELP. The 1999 S10 Blazer I just bought has the ignition > switch activate the headlights. WHY? I leave for work at 4:30 AM  My > neighbors bedroom window is directly across from my driveway. We have > been good friends until now and I would like  to keep it that way. Does > anyone know if you can bypass or eliminate this stupid option without a > major electrical malfunction? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. > THANKS    RAY

how many times, and as how many different people, are you going to post the same question?

Response:

Had a 1997 GMC, just pulled out the DRL fuse, problem solved.                                   Tookie                            Tookie

Response:

I just wanted to say THANKS to all those who took the  time to offer advice. This was the first time I have used this group and found it to be very helpful. I did not get the owners manual with the truck but will be sure to pick one up at the next swap meet. Thanks Again , Ray

Response:

> On my 2000 Silverado, the headlights won’t turn on if the emergency brake is > on.  In your case just a couple of click of the pedal will probably keep the > lights off and not harm your emergency brake. That is what I do to keep the > lights off until I am on the street. > The Silverado also has an overide button.  By pushing it I think it defeats > the auto turn on, but you have to do it after the lights turn off and it > resets itself when you turn the key off. > Good luck.

Nevermind that last comment <how many times are you going to post this>. I’m using Google and it’s got each message in a seperate header for some reason- no threading… Sorry about that!

Response:

Hi,  Please HELP. The 1999 S10 Blazer I just bought has the ignition switch activate the headlights. WHY? I leave for work at 4:30 AM  My neighbors bedroom window is directly across from my driveway. We have been good friends until now and I would like  to keep it that way. Does anyone know if you can bypass or eliminate this stupid option without a major electrical malfunction? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. THANKS    RAY

Response:

Another Reason to Hate the BORG

Question:

If you’ve ever done any webdesign you’d see that it’s Netscape who doesn’t follow the W3C web page standard.. Not M$.. —              __ | / / __              ( ‘ 0 – - 0 ‘ ) John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just tried to find the availability of a product via their (The > BORG, aka Big Orange Retail Giant, aka Home Depot) website.  It’s > effectively unusable if you’re not using M$IE on Windows.  First it’s > loaded with HTML errors; however, fortunately, these don’t cause any > visible problems.  But then there’s the scripting errors.  I’ve tried > four different browsers (iCab, Opera, Netscape 4.79 and Mozilla 1.2), > all of which support ECMAScript (the language formerly known as > JavaScript) and I either get erroneously redirected to a "Your browser > doesn’t support JavaScript" page (with no contact/feedback > information) or stuck at the zipcode request page because their > overdesigned site relies on buggy, non-standards compliant, M$ > bastardized scripting to do things that can easily be handled by HTML > forms. > — > A: No.  See: Help, I’m >    <http://www.netmeister.org/news/learn2quote.html>                 being held >    <http://www.greenend.org.uk/rjk/2000/06/14/quoting>                in a .sig > Q: Should I include quotations after my reply?

factory!

Response:

> I just tried to find the availability of a product via their (The > BORG, aka Big Orange Retail Giant, aka Home Depot) website.  It’s > effectively unusable if you’re not using M$IE on Windows.

"I’d rather switch than fight."  ;-) Using IE, I find their site (and Lowe’s, too) very effective and useful. Jim Stuyck

Response:

I gave up on Netscape for these reasons.  IE came with my new PC, it was just easier to go with the MS product.  I too came to the decision that I’d rather switch than fight, to use your words. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just tried to find the availability of a product via their (The > BORG, aka Big Orange Retail Giant, aka Home Depot) website.  It’s > effectively unusable if you’re not using M$IE on Windows. >"I’d rather switch than fight."  ;-) >Using IE, I find their site (and Lowe’s, too) very effective and useful. >Jim Stuyck

Response:

> I just tried to find the availability of a product via their (The > BORG, aka Big Orange Retail Giant, aka Home Depot) website.  It’s > effectively unusable if you’re not using M$IE on Windows.  First it’s > loaded with HTML errors; however, fortunately, these don’t cause any > visible problems.  But then there’s the scripting errors.  I’ve tried > four different browsers (iCab, Opera, Netscape 4.79 and Mozilla 1.2), > all of which support ECMAScript (the language formerly known as > JavaScript) and I either get erroneously redirected to a "Your browser > doesn’t support JavaScript" page (with no contact/feedback > information) or stuck at the zipcode request page because their > overdesigned site relies on buggy, non-standards compliant, M$ > bastardized scripting to do things that can easily be handled by HTML > forms.

Funny, I just went there with Moz 1.2, and had no problems whatsoever. I didn’t click on "Check out", but everything else was working fine. Perhaps you’ve got an antivirus proxy?  I could see that wrecking web pages all to hell in short order. -parc

Response:

My partner and I collaborated with  a couple of programmers from Nutscape back in the beginning … while good programmers, they spent much of their time in management approved attempts to screw up Windows, to the detriment of the end user … one, of many, reasons I could never stand Andreeson and his ilk. — www.e-woodshop.net – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I gave up on Netscape for these reasons.  IE came with my new PC, it > was just easier to go with the MS product.  I too came to the decision > that I’d rather switch than fight, to use your words.

Response:

So why not go to the industry standard browser and leave your troubles behind? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just tried to find the availability of a product via their (The > BORG, aka Big Orange Retail Giant, aka Home Depot) website.  It’s > effectively unusable if you’re not using M$IE on Windows.  First it’s > loaded with HTML errors; however, fortunately, these don’t cause any > visible problems.  But then there’s the scripting errors.  I’ve tried > four different browsers (iCab, Opera, Netscape 4.79 and Mozilla 1.2), > all of which support ECMAScript (the language formerly known as > JavaScript) and I either get erroneously redirected to a "Your browser > doesn’t support JavaScript" page (with no contact/feedback > information) or stuck at the zipcode request page because their > overdesigned site relies on buggy, non-standards compliant, M$ > bastardized scripting to do things that can easily be handled by HTML > forms. > — > A: No.  See: Help, I’m >    <http://www.netmeister.org/news/learn2quote.html>                 being held >    <http://www.greenend.org.uk/rjk/2000/06/14/quoting>                in a .sig > Q: Should I include quotations after my reply?

factory!

Response:

>But then there’s the scripting errors.  I’ve tried

four different browsers (iCab, Opera, Netscape 4.79 and Mozilla 1.2), all of which support ECMAScript (the language formerly known as JavaScript) and I either get erroneously redirected to a "Your browser doesn’t support JavaScript" page Try rebooting your computer and try again.  Make sure you have Java etc turned on your browser.  I just toured their site using Net 4.78 without any problems. — Rumpty Radial Arm Saw Forum:  http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just tried to find the availability of a product via their (The > BORG, aka Big Orange Retail Giant, aka Home Depot) website.  It’s > effectively unusable if you’re not using M$IE on Windows.  First it’s > loaded with HTML errors; however, fortunately, these don’t cause any > visible problems.  But then there’s the scripting errors.  I’ve tried > four different browsers (iCab, Opera, Netscape 4.79 and Mozilla 1.2), > all of which support ECMAScript (the language formerly known as > JavaScript) and I either get erroneously redirected to a "Your browser > doesn’t support JavaScript" page (with no contact/feedback > information) or stuck at the zipcode request page because their > overdesigned site relies on buggy, non-standards compliant, M$ > bastardized scripting to do things that can easily be handled by HTML > forms. > — > A: No.  See: Help, I’m >    <http://www.netmeister.org/news/learn2quote.html>                 being held >    <http://www.greenend.org.uk/rjk/2000/06/14/quoting>                in a .sig > Q: Should I include quotations after my reply?

factory!

Response:

says… > So why not go to the industry standard browser and leave your troubles > behind?

Because all the virii are written for IE – Most of them fail totally on Netscape in my experience, and I suspect the same is true for other browsers. Of course I don’t open attachments from strangers :-) . — It’s turtles – all the way down!

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Welcome to Bill’s World – "We don’t make things work, we just make incompatability – with extremely bloated and sloppy code. But, we’re evenetually going to fix the most glaring errors – at a price of course." My former neighbor was on the development team of JAVA.  The idea of a cross platform, operating sytems independent computer language finally had arrived.  Then Billy Boy crushed it – for profit of course.  What would the computer world be like without MicroSoft? (rant mode off) — woodworking site www.wood-workers.com/users/charlieb Frequently asked questions for rec.woodworking http://www.robson.org/woodfaq/

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I’d be cautious about opening attachments from people you know as well.  A lot of the current crop of viruses spread themselves by automatically mailing themselves to people in the infected computer’s address book. Presumably, if you are in that person’s address book, they know you.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > says… > So why not go to the industry standard browser and leave your troubles > behind? > Because all the virii are written for IE – Most of them fail totally on > Netscape in my experience, and I suspect the same is true for other > browsers. > Of course I don’t open attachments from strangers :-) . > — > It’s turtles – all the way down!

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My partner and I collaborated with  a couple of programmers from Nutscape > back in the beginning … while good programmers, they spent much of their > time in management approved attempts to screw up Windows, to the detriment > of the end user … one, of many, reasons I could never stand Andreeson and > his ilk. > — > www.e-woodshop.net > I gave up on Netscape for these reasons.  IE came with my new PC, it > was just easier to go with the MS product.  I too came to the decision > that I’d rather switch than fight, to use your words.

Do not in any way dis Jamie Z. or you will burn in hell for eternity. Now Andreesen?  That’s another story.. — Morrie Christmas – from Maui!  Mele Kalikimaka!     (THE FOLLOWING IS A PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT) The alt.home.repair "WHO’S WHO of USELESS POSTERS LIST" Muff, Tony Hwang, Gfretwell, Lane Romel, nJb, ScottH, 3rd Generation, Wade Lippman, Baldy Cotton, Once was Bob, NOSPAMBOB. various other "chipmAkr", BA, Bay Area Dave, any moron who uses AOL or WEBTV, Chris Perdue, barry martin, David Iacon, Phisherman, Polar, Calvin Henry-Cotnam, Vox Humana, These imbeciles have racked a.h.r. with worthless bullshit, useless postings and threads, offered lousy advice concerning topics they have little or no earthly knowledge of and in MANY case have given advice that is potentially DANGEROUS and HARMFUL to the public. Be especially wary of advice concerning electrical issues from IGOR, "klmok", and Tony Hwang.

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I can tell you precisely, because I lived and operated in it. You would be paying much higher prices for things you now take for granted, like word processing, spreadsheets and, how soon we forget, Internet browsers. Granted, MSFT can infuriate and alienate better than most other competitive companies, and they will hopefully live to regret their latest greedy licensing schemes, but kneejerk MSFT bashing is irrational in itself and has always illuminated the underlying ignorance and lack of perspective of most of those engaged in it. — www.e-woodshop.net – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > What would the computer > world be like without MicroSoft?

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You noticed the carefully discriminate wording, then?  ;) — www.e-woodshop.net – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Do not in any way dis Jamie Z. or you will burn in hell for eternity. > Now Andreesen?  That’s another story..

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everything works fine using Mozilla build 2002072204, that’s the july 2002 build. so I assume it would work even better in later builds.

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>I just tried to find the availability of a product via their (The >BORG, aka Big Orange Retail Giant, aka Home Depot) website.  It’s >effectively unusable if you’re not using M$IE on Windows.  First it’s >loaded with HTML errors; however, fortunately, these don’t cause any >visible problems.  But then there’s the scripting errors.  I’ve tried >four different browsers (iCab, Opera, Netscape 4.79 and Mozilla 1.2),

Don’t understand the problem, I use Opera 6.0 and can browse all over the HD site without any problems or messages.  Beats any billy grates product. I also use Pegasus Mail (www.pmail.com) this is much faster and more secure than anything billo can seen to make. Call it micro$$$$ bashing if you want, but I have to ask why small/tiny groups (in Norway and NZ) can produce much superior products, and give them away. I emailed micro$$$$ on this very topic several months ago, and did not even get the courtesy of a reply. Until they change that arrogant  attitude, then they get bashed, Barry Lennox

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> I emailed micro$$$$ on this very topic > several months ago, and did not even get the courtesy of a reply. > Until they change that arrogant  attitude, then they get bashed, > Barry Lennox

wow. Gates will probably send you a personal invitation for a sit down. Then you can straighten him out.

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> I can tell you precisely, because I lived and operated in it. You would be > paying much higher prices for things you now take for granted, like word > processing, spreadsheets and, how soon we forget, Internet browsers. > Granted, MSFT can infuriate and alienate better than most other competitive > companies, and they will hopefully live to regret their latest greedy > licensing schemes, but kneejerk MSFT bashing is irrational in itself and has > always illuminated the underlying ignorance and lack of perspective of most > of those engaged in it.

Amen!  I’m no fan of MSFT. And they seem to be able to crank out more than their fair share of bad software.  But I do know "free" when I see it. What a conundrum. As a "developer", MSFT has effectively crushed the industry from which I dervie a livelyhood. As a consumer, I’ve benefited tremendously.

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>> What would the computer > world be like without MicroSoft? > I can tell you precisely, because I lived and operated in > it. You would be paying much higher prices for things you > now take for granted, like word processing, spreadsheets > and, how soon we forget, Internet browsers.

<snip> I think you might be right.  If Microsoft wasn’t such a buggy, bloated POS, Linux might not have taken off.  Thank you, Linus.

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LOL … yep, replace the word "Linux" with "OS/2" and we’ve heard it all before. … just kidding, I happen to like Linux, may it live long and prosper. :) — www.e-woodshop.net – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> What would the computer >> world be like without MicroSoft? > I can tell you precisely, because I lived and operated in > it. You would be paying much higher prices for things you > now take for granted, like word processing, spreadsheets > and, how soon we forget, Internet browsers. > <snip> > I think you might be right.  If Microsoft wasn’t such a > buggy, bloated POS, Linux might not have taken off.  Thank > you, Linus.

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> I just tried to find the availability of a product via their (The > BORG, aka Big Orange Retail Giant, aka Home Depot) website.  It’s > effectively unusable if you’re not using M$IE on Windows.  First it’s > loaded with HTML errors; however, fortunately, these don’t cause any > visible problems.  But then there’s the scripting errors.  I’ve tried > four different browsers (iCab, Opera, Netscape 4.79 and Mozilla 1.2),

I’ve had NO problems whatsoever with Netscape 4.77.  I used it this morning. Barry

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> Opera is far superior to IE in many respects. It has built in popup > protection, MDI/DSI interface, many very nice features.

What’s kind of funny is Opera’s website dosen’t seem to work with Netscape 4.77.  I’d like to d/l it and try it, but I can’t until I install IE. <G> Barry

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>I gave up on Netscape for these reasons.  IE came with my new PC, it >was just easier to go with the MS product.  I too came to the decision >that I’d rather switch than fight, to use your words.

I used to be a loyal Netscape user for many, many years, until AOL bought it and turned it into a piece of crap.  Now it doesn’t follow any of the standards, it crashes, it’s buggy… I wouldn’t allow it anywhere near my system.

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> LOL … yep, replace the word "Linux" with "OS/2" and we’ve heard it all > before. > … just kidding, I happen to like Linux, may it live long and prosper. :)

It’s already lasted longer than OS/2 :-) . — It’s turtles – all the way down!

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> says… > So why not go to the industry standard browser and leave your troubles > behind? > Because all the virii are written for IE – Most of them fail totally on > Netscape in my experience, and I suspect the same is true for other > browsers. > Of course I don’t open attachments from strangers :-) .

Huh? Virus for IE? Malicious Java stuff, maybe. What kind of attachments – from friends or strangers – could you possibly get with IE?

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> I just tried to find the availability of a product via their (The > BORG, aka Big Orange Retail Giant, aka Home Depot) website.  It’s > effectively unusable if you’re not using M$IE on Windows.  First it’s > loaded with HTML errors; however, fortunately, these don’t cause any > visible problems.  But then there’s the scripting errors.  I’ve tried > four different browsers (iCab, Opera, Netscape 4.79 and Mozilla 1.2), > all of which support ECMAScript (the language formerly known as > JavaScript) and I either get erroneously redirected to a "Your browser > doesn’t support JavaScript" page (with no contact/feedback > information) or stuck at the zipcode request page because their > overdesigned site relies on buggy, non-standards compliant, M$ > bastardized scripting to do things that can easily be handled by HTML > forms.

I use IE with Java-scripting turned off (hate that non-Microsoft stuff). I have no problems. No problems at all. If you’re having difficulty, run IE from Windows. I can’t imagine why you’d put up with all this grief when the fix is so simple; hell, man, you can install FOUR different browsers, how hard could it be to install Win98?

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