Question:

My heater blows hot on one side (windscreen outlet) all the time. Local dealer says it needs a new valve for ZAR 2931 plus labour (= GBP 245 or $ 450). My questions: (a) anyone know if the valve is easy to get at (or hidden deep behind the dash)? (b) is it worth fitting a second-hand unit? or (c) is the valve likely to be repairable? TIA John. —

Response:

> My heater blows hot on one side (windscreen outlet) all the time. Local > dealer says it needs a new valve for ZAR 2931 plus labour (= GBP 245 or $ > 450). My questions: (a) anyone know if the valve is easy to get at (or > hidden deep behind the dash)? (b) is it worth fitting a second-hand unit? > or (c) is the valve likely to be repairable? TIA > John.

According to what I see on Bavarian auto for a ‘87 735i it looks like you have vacuum operated valves. Those are a good bit cheaper than the electrically operated valve assembly used on later E32’s ($49/US vs $149/US). On the later E32’s the valves were mounted in the engine bay on the left side against the firewall. Dunno if an early E32 (which and ‘87 should be) has them in the same place. With vacuum operated valves it could be that you just have a broken hose. Do you know if that’s been checked or if your mechanic is just assuming the the valve is bad? — The instructions said to use Windows 98 or better, so I installed RedHat.

Response:

> — > Thanks. There is something that looks about right on the left side of the > firewall. I may as well take it off and see if it’s repairable before > shelling out $450 just because BMW believes in a ‘throw away’ society.

Coolant hoses ledaing into it?  One electrical connector?  Four small screws on top?  That’s it.  Be prepared for coolant spills.  *After* you get it off and get those screws out, Jenny Morgan (BMW CCA’s Roundel columnist) recommends that you *replace them* with either bolts or phillips screws.  I think you’ll know why when you get them out. — C.R. Krieger (Been there; hate them)

Response:

> With vacuum operated valves it could be that you just have a broken hose. > Do you know if that’s been checked or if your mechanic is just assuming > the the valve is bad? > — > The instructions said to use Windows 98 or better, so I installed RedHat.

Thanks. I’ll check hoses and/or wires first. J

Response:

–

My questions: (a) anyone know if the valve is easy to get at (or – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hidden deep behind the dash)? > On your 7, I don’t know.  It’s really easy on the 5 Series.  In the > engine compartment, just about dead center. > (b) is it worth fitting a second-hand unit? > No.  They all crap out eventually. > (c) is the valve likely to be repairable? > Yes, but BMW doesn’t sell the core alone.  Benz does.  So do some > aftermarket BMW suppliers like Bavarian Autosport.  It’s about $30. > If you can get the four little screws out of the valve, it’s a > 15-minute job. > — > C.R. Krieger > (I can see *mine*!)

Thanks. There is something that looks about right on the left side of the firewall. I may as well take it off and see if it’s repairable before shelling out $450 just because BMW believes in a ‘throw away’ society. J.

Response:

> My heater blows hot on one side (windscreen outlet) all the time. Local > dealer says it needs a new valve for ZAR 2931 plus labour (= GBP 245 or $ > 450). My questions: (a) anyone know if the valve is easy to get at (or > hidden deep behind the dash)?

On your 7, I don’t know.  It’s really easy on the 5 Series.  In the engine compartment, just about dead center. (b) is it worth fitting a second-hand unit? No.  They all crap out eventually. > (c) is the valve likely to be repairable?

Yes, but BMW doesn’t sell the core alone.  Benz does.  So do some aftermarket BMW suppliers like Bavarian Autosport.  It’s about $30. If you can get the four little screws out of the valve, it’s a 15-minute job. — C.R. Krieger (I can see *mine*!)

Response:

Question:

If you suffer from the squeaky rear window on your S10 Blazer/Jimmy (I’ve been using the tape the striker method for the past several years but that wears out quick.) then check out this old post I found on S10Forum.com: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-38848.html I just ordered the $6 part to fix it. I might hug someone if it works. Just a FYI for you guys. John 1989 S10 Blazer 4.3 210K

Response:

some paved roads and all back roads…91S-10. Thought I "fixed" it by adjusting the rubber stop inside the latch, but all that did was make it harder to close (it did reduce the amount of I’ve now split the metal on the rear hatch….it’s only a 1/2 inch crack, but just give a few more years  D’Oh

Response:

My final solution for that was to remove the tire to the cargo area. Then I removed the tire hanger. I had rust damage to repair and bolt holes to fill, but it wasn’t too bad. If you don’t want to do that, I once wrapped electrical tape around the tube that contacts the latch. It helped and it didn’t wear out of as fast as the tape I used on the window striker.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > some paved roads and all back roads…91S-10. > Thought I "fixed" it by adjusting the rubber stop inside the latch, but > all that did was make it harder to close (it did reduce the amount of > I’ve now split the metal on the rear hatch….it’s only a 1/2 inch > crack, but just give a few more years  D’Oh

Response:

Never had any problems with the window larch, although I’ve put foam weatherstriping around the window and tailgate to keep off-road dust out Have already absconded with a replacement spare tire latch from the local junkyard, one that doesn’t have a groove beaten into it yet……I’ll probably end up replacing the tail gate if the crack gets more than a few inches long

Response:

I put tape on it and stuff a napkin or cleanex in the opening where the latch is.  I don’t hear anything from it fro at least 6-8 months at a time.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If you suffer from the squeaky rear window on your S10 Blazer/Jimmy (I’ve > been using the tape the striker method for the past several years but that > wears out quick.) then check out this old post I found on S10Forum.com: > http://www.s10forum.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-38848.html > I just ordered the $6 part to fix it. I might hug someone if it works. Just > a FYI for you guys. > John > 1989 S10 Blazer 4.3 > 210K

Response:

Question:

> I don’t know what is a goomer. If this means a guy with a M. Sc. in > mechanical engineering who has built large diesel engines, then yes, I’m > a goomer.

With a basic diesel engine, bad compression is a likely cause of poor starting. It’s well down the list on an EFI petrol engine. — *Can fat people go skinny-dipping?      RIP Acorn  

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Just leave it. The repair costs are going to exceed the purchasing cost. > > If the engine needs long cranking time, this means that pressure doesn’t > > build up properly in the cylinder, meaning worn piston rings and/or > leaking > > valves. > …spoken as a goomer that doesn’t know a torque wrench from a breaker > bar… > -Fred W > I don’t know what is a goomer. If this means a guy with a M. Sc. in > mechanical engineering who has built large diesel engines, then yes, I’m a > goomer. > Giovanni Tarantino

Well, apparently your vast knowledge in diesels doesn’t translate well to fuel injected gasoline engines because there is no way in hell that I would suspect worn piston or rings for long cranking time. Just FYI… normally, long cranking time is an indication that the fuel pressure is not being maintained in the fuel rail, usually it is something as cheap as a stuck check valve… -Fred W

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> HI, What do you think of this deal. > 1987 325 261K miles, new transmission at 200K (5 speed manual), 4 new > michelin tires, wear as you would expect for an older car, no rust, paint > peeling in one spot on hood, 2 year old 4 speaker Alpine stereo with CD. > Replaced the cam belt recently, should have 50K left on it.  Passed MD > inspection. > $1900 > One owner who I know very well and loves BMWs.  Just bought a new one. > He took care of it and it was garage kept for most of its life.  I drove > it and it runs very well.  Cranked a little longer than I expected when I > started it.  He says when it is real hot it can take a while to start, > but it does eventually.  Just fine in the cold.  AC just stopped blowing > cold air, sounds like comprssor is kicking in though.  Checking that out > next week. > I’m buying this for my teenager for school and to get around in.  He is a > very responsible kid. > Never bought a BMW before and I am concerned about the mileage and if > repair/maintenance costs are greater for an old BMW than maybe a 1992 > Mazda Protege which I can buy for $2000.  The BMW runs better.  Insurance > costs for either one is the same.

Greg, In a word: YES. It is risky. I drove an 87 325is for years. Passed it on to my nephew and he still drives it to this day. Has about 200K on the clock. At this point, it is not a car without "challenges" Now, you’re buying as much a project as a car. Lots of little things to go wrong and a few big ones to boot. You need to have this thing checked out by a mechanic. At this age, you can be dealing with rusted brake lines, fuel lines and pre-filter, bad injectors, chassis bushings, radiator, drive shaft and half shaft problems-the list goes on. The starting problem from hot is probably not be a big deal. My 87 with the 167hp engine would take a lot of cranking to start when warm. Did it since new. It also idled rough from new. Just a characteristic of the engine that year. It is a great car. One of the best I ever owned. But sadly, they’re getting old now, and old BMW’s are kind of like old movie stars: dignified, but very cranky and expensive to maintain. Good luck.

Response:

> Just leave it. The repair costs are going to exceed the purchasing cost. > If the engine needs long cranking time, this means that pressure doesn’t > build up properly in the cylinder, meaning worn piston rings and/or > leaking valves.

You work as a service receptionist? ‘Cause you’ve picked about the most expensive  - and unlikely cause of poor hot starting – especially since it runs well. — *Be more or less specific *      RIP Acorn  

Response:

> > Just leave it. The repair costs are going to exceed the purchasing cost. > If the engine needs long cranking time, this means that pressure doesn’t > build up properly in the cylinder, meaning worn piston rings and/or > leaking > valves. > …spoken as a goomer that doesn’t know a torque wrench from a breaker > bar… > -Fred W

I don’t know what is a goomer. If this means a guy with a M. Sc. in mechanical engineering who has built large diesel engines, then yes, I’m a goomer. Giovanni Tarantino

Response:

The BMW is into its "second service interval" at 250K (an arbitrary measurement … BMW doesn’t log it that way).  That means most everything that made it to 100-125K needs replacement again and some really serious stuff may be coming due … like a top end job with valves etc. I’d take it to an independent mechanic and do a full diagnostic of the entire machine with emphasis on engine, driveline, suspension, steering etc. The E30 is a sweet machine and very durable, but a quarter million miles is a milestone that even such stalwart machines do not pass without some significant maintenance investment. R / John

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> HI, What do you think of this deal. > 1987 325 261K miles, new transmission at 200K (5 speed manual), 4 new > michelin tires, wear as you would expect for an older car, no rust, paint > peeling in one spot on hood, 2 year old 4 speaker Alpine stereo with CD. > Replaced the cam belt recently, should have 50K left on it.  Passed MD > inspection. > $1900 > One owner who I know very well and loves BMWs.  Just bought a new one. > He took care of it and it was garage kept for most of its life.  I drove > it and it runs very well.  Cranked a little longer than I expected when I > started it.  He says when it is real hot it can take a while to start, > but it does eventually.  Just fine in the cold.  AC just stopped blowing > cold air, sounds like comprssor is kicking in though.  Checking that out > next week. > I’m buying this for my teenager for school and to get around in.  He is a > very responsible kid. > Never bought a BMW before and I am concerned about the mileage and if > repair/maintenance costs are greater for an old BMW than maybe a 1992 > Mazda Protege which I can buy for $2000.  The BMW runs better.  Insurance > costs for either one is the same. > Thanks, > Greg > Bowie, MD

Response:

> Just leave it. The repair costs are going to exceed the purchasing cost. > If the engine needs long cranking time, this means that pressure doesn’t > build up properly in the cylinder, meaning worn piston rings and/or leaking > valves.

…spoken as a goomer that doesn’t know a torque wrench from a breaker bar… -Fred W

Response:

> Just do a thorough check, don’t pay too much for the damned thing, and prepare > to be handy with a wrench.  If you pay someone else to do all your repairs, > forget it.

This, as Frank Zappa once sung, is the crux of the biscuit.  But what better excuse to roll up your sleeves and dig into some character building automotive repairs than a sub $2k BMW?  …and with a six cylinder engine no less… -Fred W

Response:

> HI, What do you think of this deal. > 1987 325 261K miles, new transmission at 200K (5 speed manual), 4 new > michelin tires, wear as you would expect for an older car, no rust, paint > peeling in one spot on hood, 2 year old 4 speaker Alpine stereo with CD. > Replaced the cam belt recently, should have 50K left on it.  Passed MD > inspection. > $1900

<<snip a bunch of details…>> Risky?  Only to the tune of  $1900 which isn’t a whole lott’a risk in my books… Do you, or you and your son, want to work on the car when it needs the inevitible repairs?  Every car will need some repairs sooner or later, and the $1900 variety is more prone to sooner.  If so you have cut your risk dramatically.  Any foreign car has the risk of expensive repairs when subjected to the whims of the mechanic specialists. I think your biggest risk is in getting your son hooked on an addiction to BMWs.  Once he drives (and maintains) one he will never be satisfied with anything less… Go for it.  You will not be sorry…  But I’ll bet you’ll be buying one for yourself before long. -Fred W ‘94 540iA ‘95 325i ‘97 Z3 2.8 (cherry!)

Response:

> Just leave it. The repair costs are going to exceed the purchasing cost. > If the engine needs long cranking time, this means that pressure doesn’t > build up properly in the cylinder, meaning worn piston rings and/or leaking > valves.

Easily checked with a compression gauge and a single socket and ratchet. -Russ.

Response:

>> Just leave it. The repair costs are going to exceed the purchasing > cost. If the engine needs long cranking time, this means that > pressure doesn’t build up properly in the cylinder, meaning worn > piston rings and/or leaking valves. > Easily checked with a compression gauge and a single socket and > ratchet.

The engine is the least of your worries.  Think about the worn out suspension, AC system, window regulators, seats — pads, frames, and mechanisms — fuel pumps and relays, various electrical components, brake system (corrosion, etc.), door hinges, seat belts, etc.  All these things can fail, and cost a lot to fix. The condition of main components (engine, transmission, brakes, suspension, clutch) is easy to determine, but the "little" stuff can kill you.  Renewing a suspension can actually cost more than replacing an engine/transmission with a good used one. Just do a thorough check, don’t pay too much for the damned thing, and prepare to be handy with a wrench.  If you pay someone else to do all your repairs, forget it. My last one was still going strong at 350k, when I left it in West Texas because of a lousy fuel pump relay.  Didn’t have the time to deal with it, but I *really* got my money’s worth out of that car. There was a famous test where a BMW ran a million miles on Mobile One oil, with very little engine wear.  But they usually don’t tell you they replaced the diff twice. Again, the engine is probably the least of your worries. Matt O.

Response:

HI, What do you think of this deal. 1987 325 261K miles, new transmission at 200K (5 speed manual), 4 new michelin tires, wear as you would expect for an older car, no rust, paint peeling in one spot on hood, 2 year old 4 speaker Alpine stereo with CD.   Replaced the cam belt recently, should have 50K left on it.  Passed MD inspection. $1900 One owner who I know very well and loves BMWs.  Just bought a new one.   He took care of it and it was garage kept for most of its life.  I drove it and it runs very well.  Cranked a little longer than I expected when I started it.  He says when it is real hot it can take a while to start, but it does eventually.  Just fine in the cold.  AC just stopped blowing cold air, sounds like comprssor is kicking in though.  Checking that out next week. I’m buying this for my teenager for school and to get around in.  He is a very responsible kid. Never bought a BMW before and I am concerned about the mileage and if repair/maintenance costs are greater for an old BMW than maybe a 1992 Mazda Protege which I can buy for $2000.  The BMW runs better.  Insurance costs for either one is the same. Thanks, Greg Bowie, MD

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> HI, What do you think of this deal. > 1987 325 261K miles, new transmission at 200K (5 speed manual), 4 new > michelin tires, wear as you would expect for an older car, no rust, paint > peeling in one spot on hood, 2 year old 4 speaker Alpine stereo with CD. > Replaced the cam belt recently, should have 50K left on it.  Passed MD > inspection. > $1900 > One owner who I know very well and loves BMWs.  Just bought a new one. > He took care of it and it was garage kept for most of its life.  I drove > it and it runs very well.  Cranked a little longer than I expected when I > started it.  He says when it is real hot it can take a while to start, > but it does eventually.  Just fine in the cold.  AC just stopped blowing > cold air, sounds like comprssor is kicking in though.  Checking that out > next week. > I’m buying this for my teenager for school and to get around in.  He is a > very responsible kid. > Never bought a BMW before and I am concerned about the mileage and if > repair/maintenance costs are greater for an old BMW than maybe a 1992 > Mazda Protege which I can buy for $2000.  The BMW runs better.  Insurance > costs for either one is the same. > Thanks, > Greg > Bowie, MD

Buy the Bimmer.  It might cost you more than the Mazda, it might not. Probably will.  But with new tires, timing belt, and transmission, plus a reasonable stereo, that’s potentially a nice machine for him.  And, way, WAY cooler than a protege for a teenager. The E30 is a better candidate for shadetree mechanics too, btw. PS then send him to a BMW driving school via your local BMWCCA chapter. -Russ.

Response:

Just leave it. The repair costs are going to exceed the purchasing cost. If the engine needs long cranking time, this means that pressure doesn’t build up properly in the cylinder, meaning worn piston rings and/or leaking valves. — Best regards. Giovanni Tarantino Bevaix (NE) Switzerland 1997 Audi A4 2.8 Q 220,000 km (137,000 miles) 1997 BMW 535i 217,000 km (134,000 miles)

Response:

Question:

Snipped… >I would suggest having the wiring done before anything else.  The chaos and >destruction will be much easier to handle if it is done before it becomes >his home.  Be sure to have him get a dumpster before he starts. > If there is major carpentry/masonry/hvac, have that done before > electrical.

Right you are.  I forgot to mention the AC and insulation we are also adding at the same time.  The beauty of this "new" house is that it has no structural problems at all.  It was built by people with Old Money in about 1910 and was meant to last.  Except for a couple of rooms that got the woodwork painted, an added bathroom that has to go, and windows in need of overhauls, it is is fantastic shape.  With the exception of the electrical system, all repairs and updates were done in a workmanlike manner with an eye toward preserving the look and feel of the original house.  I’m kind of spoiled by working on this one. Jim

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I’m having a two story brick, approximately 4,000 sq feet of living space, >done right now.  We are having it brought as close to the letter of the NEC >as possible, the local inspector said he would take into account the >realities of re-wiring an old house.  The inspector has already given us the >OK to deviate from the NEC on the location and number of some outlets. >Brick houses are a bear to do properly. >Our job is going to cost $8,000.00.  This is for a new 200 amp service, plus >enough outlets and lighting to comply with today’s standards.  It’s alot of >hard and dirty work to pull the wire even with me doing the bulk of the >demolition and cleanup for the electrician.  I’m working on getting a chase >built from the basement to the attic this week in anticipation of wire being >pulled in the next couple of days.  The attic has been totally gutted down >to the bare joists, no insulation.  I may go as far as cutting the holes in >the downstairs ceilings for him to run wire to some locations in the >upstairs bedrooms.  The running joke between the electrican and myself is >the old thing about "Your time and my money".  I could have paid less, but >you get what you pay for and this job will pass on the first inspection. >I’m responsible for refinishing the walls and ceilings after the rough >inspection is complete. >I would suggest having the wiring done before anything else.  The chaos and >destruction will be much easier to handle if it is done before it becomes >his home.  Be sure to have him get a dumpster before he starts.

If there is major carpentry/masonry/hvac, have that done before electrical. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’m located in Southeastern Ohio.  The trades make a decent wage here but I >would assume that the prevailing wage in your area would be a bit higher. >Jim > Hi:  My son is thinking about buying an older home and remodeling it > as he goes along except for the electrical work. Currently there is a > circuit breaker protected 100 amp service that is newer along with > some knob and tube wiring.  It is a 3 story home . What is the going > price for  rewiring a house like this to the same receptacles and > switches with new wiring.  What does an electrician charge on average? > This is for Eastern Pa. by the way and I do know job size and other > variables play into pricing. I am looking for a ballpark figure like > how much per receptacle etc.  Nick

Response:

The number of receptacles really doesn’t have much to do with it. What will take the time is running the wire. Does your son want the wiring run inside the walls, or would something like Wiremold surface raceways be acceptable? Running wire inside the walls is very time and labor intensive, unless you are doing a gut renovation and removing all of the plaster. Good Luck rudy

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi:  My son is thinking about buying an older home and remodeling it > as he goes along except for the electrical work. Currently there is a > circuit breaker protected 100 amp service that is newer along with > some knob and tube wiring.  It is a 3 story home . What is the going > price for  rewiring a house like this to the same receptacles and > switches with new wiring.  What does an electrician charge on average? > This is for Eastern Pa. by the way and I do know job size and other > variables play into pricing. I am looking for a ballpark figure like > how much per receptacle etc.  Nick

Response:

I would start with a 200 amp service and a 40 slot breaker panel. That would probably be a few thousand. The 40 slot panel will give you all the room for breakers you will ever need. And not much more $$ than a 20 slot panel. If replacing the main panel, you can get a whole house surge protector as well. Then get estimates to rewire several rooms at a time as money permits. Start with the kitchen as many energy hogs are located there. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi:  My son is thinking about buying an older home and remodeling it > as he goes along except for the electrical work. Currently there is a > circuit breaker protected 100 amp service that is newer along with > some knob and tube wiring.  It is a 3 story home . What is the going > price for  rewiring a house like this to the same receptacles and > switches with new wiring.  What does an electrician charge on average? > This is for Eastern Pa. by the way and I do know job size and other > variables play into pricing. I am looking for a ballpark figure like > how much per receptacle etc.  Nick

Response:

I’m having a two story brick, approximately 4,000 sq feet of living space, done right now.  We are having it brought as close to the letter of the NEC as possible, the local inspector said he would take into account the realities of re-wiring an old house.  The inspector has already given us the OK to deviate from the NEC on the location and number of some outlets. Brick houses are a bear to do properly. Our job is going to cost $8,000.00.  This is for a new 200 amp service, plus enough outlets and lighting to comply with today’s standards.  It’s alot of hard and dirty work to pull the wire even with me doing the bulk of the demolition and cleanup for the electrician.  I’m working on getting a chase built from the basement to the attic this week in anticipation of wire being pulled in the next couple of days.  The attic has been totally gutted down to the bare joists, no insulation.  I may go as far as cutting the holes in the downstairs ceilings for him to run wire to some locations in the upstairs bedrooms.  The running joke between the electrican and myself is the old thing about "Your time and my money".  I could have paid less, but you get what you pay for and this job will pass on the first inspection. I’m responsible for refinishing the walls and ceilings after the rough inspection is complete. I would suggest having the wiring done before anything else.  The chaos and destruction will be much easier to handle if it is done before it becomes his home.  Be sure to have him get a dumpster before he starts. I’m located in Southeastern Ohio.  The trades make a decent wage here but I would assume that the prevailing wage in your area would be a bit higher. Jim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi:  My son is thinking about buying an older home and remodeling it > as he goes along except for the electrical work. Currently there is a > circuit breaker protected 100 amp service that is newer along with > some knob and tube wiring.  It is a 3 story home . What is the going > price for  rewiring a house like this to the same receptacles and > switches with new wiring.  What does an electrician charge on average? > This is for Eastern Pa. by the way and I do know job size and other > variables play into pricing. I am looking for a ballpark figure like > how much per receptacle etc.  Nick

Response:

Hi:  My son is thinking about buying an older home and remodeling it as he goes along except for the electrical work. Currently there is a circuit breaker protected 100 amp service that is newer along with some knob and tube wiring.  It is a 3 story home . What is the going price for  rewiring a house like this to the same receptacles and switches with new wiring.  What does an electrician charge on average? This is for Eastern Pa. by the way and I do know job size and other variables play into pricing. I am looking for a ballpark figure like how much per receptacle etc.  Nick

Response:

Question:

Hi all,     I have a 1989 525i (E34).  I am having major problems trying to reset my inspection light and get all greens leds lit.  I have tried all the methods that I have found posted on the web… none have worked!  The article at http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/sil.html states "The most common problem with resetting the service lights is bad NiCad batteries in the instrument cluster. The batteries seem to fail pretty consistently after 4 years."     So I removed my instrument cluster and opened it up as per the article above, and…. nothing…..  no matter how hard I looked, could not find the SI board or the NiCads.  Am I missing something fundamental?  The service indicator lights have worked fine since I’ve had the car, so I must have an SI board somewhere!     Can anyone shed any light on this for me?         TIA         Artie — Artie Ball CTO Realistic-Concepts, Inc 173 West Wieuca Rd, NE Suite 106 Atlanta, Georgia 30342 Office:   404-943-9664/9665 Fax:        404-795-0947 Cell:       404-934-9262 www.Realistic-Concepts.com "Perfection is a state of perception." – Me VPN and Firewall Design, Installation and Support Network Design, Installation and Support Linux and Windows Support Web Design and Hosting (as low as $10.00 a month) Maintenance Support Contracts and Dedicated Onsite Support Personal Ask about Special Support Deals for Non-Profits and FREE Microsoft Software

Response:

The E34 has NO Nicads, nor a SI Board, this was in the E30 not the E34, your problem stems from the 5 capacitors which are prone and known to fail in the E34 Instrument cluster. Please refer to http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/Maintenance/Electrical/Capacitors.htm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, >     I have a 1989 525i (E34).  I am having major problems trying to reset my > inspection light and get all greens leds lit.  I have tried all the methods > that I have found posted on the web… none have worked!  The article at > http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/sil.html states "The most common > problem with resetting the service lights is bad NiCad batteries in the > instrument cluster. The batteries seem to fail pretty consistently after 4 > years." >     So I removed my instrument cluster and opened it up as per the article > above, and…. nothing…..  no matter how hard I looked, could not find the > SI board or the NiCads.  Am I missing something fundamental?  The service > indicator lights have worked fine since I’ve had the car, so I must have an > SI board somewhere! >     Can anyone shed any light on this for me? >         TIA >         Artie > — > Artie Ball > CTO > Realistic-Concepts, Inc > 173 West Wieuca Rd, NE > Suite 106 > Atlanta, Georgia 30342 > Office:   404-943-9664/9665 > Fax:        404-795-0947 > Cell:       404-934-9262 > www.Realistic-Concepts.com > "Perfection is a state of perception." > – Me > VPN and Firewall Design, Installation and Support > Network Design, Installation and Support > Linux and Windows Support > Web Design and Hosting (as low as $10.00 a month) > Maintenance Support Contracts and Dedicated Onsite Support Personal > Ask about Special Support Deals for Non-Profits and FREE Microsoft Software

Response:

Question:

Hey everyone, I’m about to install a new window on my parents single story cottage.  There was no previous window, just a blank wall. The outside wall is vinyl sided (white) and the inside is drywall. My plans: -cut electric to cottage. -mark opening on outside wall. -snip siding within one quarter inch of opening. -remark opening on sheathing, cut with sawzall -on inside, cut way sections of sheetrock larger than opening so I can get to wall studs and frame in header and sil. -set window, level and nail in place at flange. -trim outside with j-channel for siding. -repair drywall inside (where I needed to remove to get to framing) -inside trim. Sound ok? I’ve never done this but it sounds easy enough. Is there a way to avoid cutting more of the sheetrock to get to the framing? Is it practical to remove more of the siding from the outside, then some of the sheathing so I can get to the framing (header and sil) from the outside? I’d like to avoid doing any drywalling on the inside. Thanks for any advice. jeff

Response:

> Is there a way to avoid cutting more of the sheetrock to get to the framing? > Is it practical to remove more of the siding from the outside, then some of > the sheathing so I can get to the framing (header and sil) from the outside? > I’d like to avoid doing any drywalling on the inside. > Thanks for any advice. > jeff

If you wanted to spend the extra time you could go in from the outside. Take down vinyl siding on the outside wall, marking the pieces so you can put them back the way you took them out Cut out tyveck/tarpaper. Take down plywood sheets, expose studs. Cut out what needs to be cut. Install King/Jack studs, header, frame in bottom. This could all be done without touching inside drywall, except for the screw/nail holes made when removing studs. You only have to remove that part of the stud where the window will be. Cut the drywall out of the opening after all the framing has been done from the outside. Replace plywood. Cut window hole. Install window. Replace tyveck. Install J-channel and rain cap (?). Reinstall siding. Move inside, if you’re lucky you just have to trim out the inside of the window. Pop will think you’re a genius. Good luck Lorence

Response:

Question:

> I have a room that is paneling on the bottom and wallpaper on top.  I > want to remove both the wallpaper and paneling and put up new > wallpaper top to bottom.  The problem is that the paneling is glued on > and when I tried to remove it the wall board came off with it.  The > wallboard ripped to the layered brown stuff.  I tried to use a heat > gun but that did not help.  Has anybody had success in using a heat > gun.  Maybe I need two heat guns or a better heat gun.  I am looking > for suggestions on the best approach here.  I could skim coat the > wall.  Keep in mind I will be putting wallpaper over the drywall.  I > really do not want to put up new drywall.  How good does a wall have > to be repaired for the wallpaper to look good???????  Are there any > other thin materials one can apply to cover up damaged drywall good > enough for wallpaper.  If I put up new sheetrock there is the 3/8" > addition issue (electrical, doors and etc) and I have to finished with > joint compound.  Any suggestions appreciated

Bite the bullet and do it the right way- rip out the old drywall down to the studs, and replace with 1/2"", mud tape and prime. It will take less work and time and probably less money than screwing with heat guns and skim coating. If the wallpaper on the top half comes off clean, you can probably get away with just changing the bottom half, which will make the job much easier, since you won”t have that inside top corner joint to mess with. (If you are lucky, you can break it at the original factory edge.) Unless the new wallpaper is a very busy or textured design, any lumps or ripple will jump right out at you, especially when light hits it at a low angle. Even if you covered entire wall with something thin like masonite, you would still have to mess with door casings, outlets, windows, etc, to make them look right. Advantage of opening the wall is that it is also a good time to add any outlets, cable wires, phone/LAN outlets, etc. aem sends….

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a room that is paneling on the bottom and wallpaper on top.  I >want to remove both the wallpaper and paneling and put up new >wallpaper top to bottom.  The problem is that the paneling is glued on >and when I tried to remove it the wall board came off with it.  The >wallboard ripped to the layered brown stuff.  I tried to use a heat >gun but that did not help.  Has anybody had success in using a heat >gun.  Maybe I need two heat guns or a better heat gun.  I am looking >for suggestions on the best approach here.  I could skim coat the >wall.  Keep in mind I will be putting wallpaper over the drywall.  I >really do not want to put up new drywall.  How good does a wall have >to be repaired for the wallpaper to look good???????  Are there any >other thin materials one can apply to cover up damaged drywall good >enough for wallpaper.  If I put up new sheetrock there is the 3/8" >addition issue (electrical, doors and etc) and I have to finished with >joint compound.  Any suggestions appreciated

Ideally (they way I like to do things) the drywall should be replaced.  Ripping off the surface and trying to doctor it seems like a waste of time, effort and money.  I can’t feature myself repairing the ripped up drywall, so I would be inclined either to replace the drywall, or paint the paneling and just repaper the top.  After making sure the paper will come off fairly cleanly.  Clean, degrease and prime the paneling prior to painting.  Heatguns are dangerous, especially since you are blasting away at a cumbustible surface.

Response:

I had the same wallboard problem that you did.  I think they used epoxy to attach the wallpaper to the wall.  Needless to say, the wallboard was damaged.  My skim coat skills were not where they needed to be at that time. I skim-coated, but it still wasn’t good enough for paint.  Used the paintable textured wallpaper, and it worked really nice.  I guess I could have used the pour-in texture in the paint & got the same effect.  For wallpaper, we did use regular wallpaper on one of my "repaired" walls, and it turned out OK.  Kind of a "busy" pattern seemed to work.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a room that is paneling on the bottom and wallpaper on top.  I > want to remove both the wallpaper and paneling and put up new > wallpaper top to bottom.  The problem is that the paneling is glued on > and when I tried to remove it the wall board came off with it.  The > wallboard ripped to the layered brown stuff.  I tried to use a heat > gun but that did not help.  Has anybody had success in using a heat > gun.  Maybe I need two heat guns or a better heat gun.  I am looking > for suggestions on the best approach here.  I could skim coat the > wall.  Keep in mind I will be putting wallpaper over the drywall.  I > really do not want to put up new drywall.  How good does a wall have > to be repaired for the wallpaper to look good???????  Are there any > other thin materials one can apply to cover up damaged drywall good > enough for wallpaper.  If I put up new sheetrock there is the 3/8" > addition issue (electrical, doors and etc) and I have to finished with > joint compound.  Any suggestions appreciated

Response:

I have a room that is paneling on the bottom and wallpaper on top.  I want to remove both the wallpaper and paneling and put up new wallpaper top to bottom.  The problem is that the paneling is glued on and when I tried to remove it the wall board came off with it.  The wallboard ripped to the layered brown stuff.  I tried to use a heat gun but that did not help.  Has anybody had success in using a heat gun.  Maybe I need two heat guns or a better heat gun.  I am looking for suggestions on the best approach here.  I could skim coat the wall.  Keep in mind I will be putting wallpaper over the drywall.  I really do not want to put up new drywall.  How good does a wall have to be repaired for the wallpaper to look good???????  Are there any other thin materials one can apply to cover up damaged drywall good enough for wallpaper.  If I put up new sheetrock there is the 3/8" addition issue (electrical, doors and etc) and I have to finished with joint compound.  Any suggestions appreciated

Response:

Question:

   I agree. These are both easy jobs. Try to read up before hand. Your local library will have a good selection of homeowner DIY handbooks.    For the light fixture you’ll need a step ladder, a screw driver, a way to check for electricity in the wires, and some wire nuts. A helper who can supply a second pair of hands may be nice and is good for moral support if you run into a problem. Fresh coffee is very important. Be aware that you may have to repaint the ceiling at some point. Good luck, Dave M.

Response:

Love your spirit!  Can’t learn any younger.  Look at DIY books as there are several out there.  HD conducts demonstrations that you might find helpful. Keep this NG in mind and ask, ask, then report. >I am finally on my own, and would like to do my own home improvements. >Where could I start to learn??  I am willing to learn. Any thoughts on >where I can start? How hard are the jobs I mentioned? I am very eager to >learn. Please serious replies only…

Name works for E-mail

Response:

Great help, LeDogae!  You really spent some time and gave her the right info. Don’t listen to the condo valuation and fear of association rules.  My friend bought a condo last year for 140,000, and 15 months later it appraised for close to 200,000.  And he does the any nonstructural repairs and renovations he wants. Good luck and work safe. Bob

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi New! > Congrats on the condo!  I agree… who on earth would put fluorescent lights > in a DINING room? > I assume that we’re not talking about a recessed light fixture (one that is > "built in" to the ceiling).  If it’s just a regular fixture, it’s relatively > easy to replace.  I am also assuming that you are not going to be installing > a ceiling fan/light or a very heavy fixture that might require special > bracing in the cieling. > All of the parts that make a fluorescent light "special" are usually located > in the light fixture itself, there’s nothing hidden above the ceiling.  I > would start with a basic home repair book.  Time-Life makes a good one, but > there are others.  After reading it, go to your local home improvement > center electrical and lighting department.  There you will see the actual > tools and materials that you will need for the job.  Most fixtures come with > everything you will need to replace the light (aside from the tools).  All > screws, wire nuts, etc. are in the box.  The book will probably tell you > what kind of tools you will need, but I would suggest an inexpensive > electrical tester, a ladder, a screwdriver set (with handles of different > lengths and tips of different sizes and types), and a good pair of > electrician’s pliers (they have "insulated" handles and parts for both > cutting and gripping).  You will also probably need an extension cord to run > from a different room to a lamp where you are working (you will have the > power to the fixture you are working on turned off at the BREAKER or FUSE > box).  Get one or two friends to help hold things, or to get things for you, > while you are working. > I can offer two tips:  (1) If the ceiling was painted after the old fixture > was installed, you should score around the edges of the old fixture where it > meets the ceiling.  This will prevent "ripping" the paint when you pull the > old fixture off.  (2) Depending on the size of the old fluorescent fixture, > you may find that there will be holes in the cieling that you will need to > fill.  Touch-up spackling for flat ceilings and textured-touch up for > textured (bumpy) cielings are available in small containers. > At the same time that you are replacing the light, you might consider > changing the switch to a dimmer switch — another easy job.  Fluourescent > lights usually don’t work on dimmers, but regular incandescent lights do, > and it’s a great feature in a dining room. > As for the cabinet, it too will be easy to replace.   Most cabinets are > screwed into the studs that support the wall.  Some cabinets are hung on a > support that is screwed into the studs that support the wall.  I have even > seen some tragic cabinets that were glued to the wall (I hope you don’t have > one of those).  You will need to mark the location of the studs somehow, > because that is where your new cabinet will be attached too (preferably in > the same holes).  There will be several large screws in the back of the > cabinet, or screws in the support hook, that should be about 18 inches > apart.  Those are the screws that are supporting the cabinet.    Using a > spirit level you can then mark a vertical line along the center of the stud. > You then test-mount the cabinet, check for level, and mark the location of > the studs on the cabinet itself.  You drill holes in the cabinet for the > mounting screws, and screw it into the wall… You’re DONE.  You can also > change the light fixture above the cabinet too, if you want. > Changing the vanity and countertop is a bit more involved because it > involves plumbing.  Not that you can’t do it yourself, YOU CAN.  But I would > leave this as the third project, to build your experience. > The nice thing about the changes you propose is that they are relatively > easy projects that will allow you to develop necessary skills that every > homeowner should have.  In addition, the tools you will buy are a long-term > investment that will last for many improvement and repair projects if well > cared-for.

Response:

> I just bought myself a condo and I have a couple of questions I would > like to ask, regarding some cosmetic repair.

Your first mistake is buying a condo, as it is like moving to another planet )  First of all, you probably have bylaws?  Second, city code likely has different rules for single family homes vs multi.  Like, plumbing has to be done by a licensed plumber.  Everyone knows rules are made to be broken, but plumbing hookup may need to be done by a licensed plumber. Someone I know changed out their own hot water heater in a condo, which actually requires a building permit round these parts. Other than R&R (rules and regulations, NOT rest and recreation), > One, my condo has a fluorescent light in my dining area. I would love to > get rid of it and get a overhead light with a regular bulb. Is it hard > to do and is it possible to convert what kind of lighting you can have?? > Second, I hate my bathroom vanity and medicine cabinet.  I  want to > change it!!!! > My question to all you wise people. > Is it possible for me to do the work myself on the lighting in my dining > room and replacing of the vanity and medicine cabinet with no experience > what so ever. Is it really hard to do?? If I just got some tools and > read some manuals, could I do the job myself??

Not that hard, but as fearful as I am of floods, I’d have a plumber do the hookup, especially if you don’t live on the bottom floor and a leak could damage someone else’s property, inclucing the condo association’s, which likely owns the interior of the walls.  We own what is inside the "unfinished surface of the interior wall, blah, blah, blah". > I am finally on my own, and would like to do my own home improvements.

Sell the condo.  The only people in our condo who are gung ho about DIY are those who should not ) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Where could I start to learn??  I am willing to learn. Any thoughts on > where I can start? How hard are the jobs I mentioned? I am very eager to > learn. Please serious replies only… > Thank you for comments… > Please post in group or email me… > I would like to have a cyber pal that could help me…

Response:

> I just bought myself a condo and I have a couple of questions I would > like to ask, regarding some cosmetic repair.

Congrats, on the Condo. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> One, my condo has a fluorescent light in my dining area. I would love to > get rid of it and get a overhead light with a regular bulb. Is it hard > to do and is it possible to convert what kind of lighting you can have?? > Second, I hate my bathroom vanity and medicine cabinet.  I  want to > change it!!!! > My question to all you wise people. > Is it possible for me to do the work myself on the lighting in my dining > room and replacing of the vanity and medicine cabinet with no experience > what so ever. Is it really hard to do?? If I just got some tools and > read some manuals, could I do the job myself?? > I am finally on my own, and would like to do my own home improvements. > Where could I start to learn??  I am willing to learn. Any thoughts on > where I can start? How hard are the jobs I mentioned? I am very eager to > learn. Please serious replies only…

If you have a Home Depot in your area they have several books on different types of improvements.  I recently purchased one called "Home Improvement 1-2-3.  It has different sections in it that cover things from Planning & Design, Painting & Wallpapering, Plumbing, Electrical, Ceilings, Walls, & Floors, Doors & Windows, Cabinets & Countertops, Shelving & Storage, Insulating & Waterproofing, and Exterior Maintenance.  I think it was $19.95.  It tells you how hard the job is to do and how to do it as well as the tools you’ll need to complete the task. http://www.kingcountyhomes4sale.com – Seattle Area Real Estate

Response:

Hi New! Congrats on the condo!  I agree… who on earth would put fluorescent lights in a DINING room? I assume that we’re not talking about a recessed light fixture (one that is "built in" to the ceiling).  If it’s just a regular fixture, it’s relatively easy to replace.  I am also assuming that you are not going to be installing a ceiling fan/light or a very heavy fixture that might require special bracing in the cieling. All of the parts that make a fluorescent light "special" are usually located in the light fixture itself, there’s nothing hidden above the ceiling.  I would start with a basic home repair book.  Time-Life makes a good one, but there are others.  After reading it, go to your local home improvement center electrical and lighting department.  There you will see the actual tools and materials that you will need for the job.  Most fixtures come with everything you will need to replace the light (aside from the tools).  All screws, wire nuts, etc. are in the box.  The book will probably tell you what kind of tools you will need, but I would suggest an inexpensive electrical tester, a ladder, a screwdriver set (with handles of different lengths and tips of different sizes and types), and a good pair of electrician’s pliers (they have "insulated" handles and parts for both cutting and gripping).  You will also probably need an extension cord to run from a different room to a lamp where you are working (you will have the power to the fixture you are working on turned off at the BREAKER or FUSE box).  Get one or two friends to help hold things, or to get things for you, while you are working. I can offer two tips:  (1) If the ceiling was painted after the old fixture was installed, you should score around the edges of the old fixture where it meets the ceiling.  This will prevent "ripping" the paint when you pull the old fixture off.  (2) Depending on the size of the old fluorescent fixture, you may find that there will be holes in the cieling that you will need to fill.  Touch-up spackling for flat ceilings and textured-touch up for textured (bumpy) cielings are available in small containers. At the same time that you are replacing the light, you might consider changing the switch to a dimmer switch — another easy job.  Fluourescent lights usually don’t work on dimmers, but regular incandescent lights do, and it’s a great feature in a dining room. As for the cabinet, it too will be easy to replace.   Most cabinets are screwed into the studs that support the wall.  Some cabinets are hung on a support that is screwed into the studs that support the wall.  I have even seen some tragic cabinets that were glued to the wall (I hope you don’t have one of those).  You will need to mark the location of the studs somehow, because that is where your new cabinet will be attached too (preferably in the same holes).  There will be several large screws in the back of the cabinet, or screws in the support hook, that should be about 18 inches apart.  Those are the screws that are supporting the cabinet.    Using a spirit level you can then mark a vertical line along the center of the stud. You then test-mount the cabinet, check for level, and mark the location of the studs on the cabinet itself.  You drill holes in the cabinet for the mounting screws, and screw it into the wall… You’re DONE.  You can also change the light fixture above the cabinet too, if you want. Changing the vanity and countertop is a bit more involved because it involves plumbing.  Not that you can’t do it yourself, YOU CAN.  But I would leave this as the third project, to build your experience. The nice thing about the changes you propose is that they are relatively easy projects that will allow you to develop necessary skills that every homeowner should have.  In addition, the tools you will buy are a long-term investment that will last for many improvement and repair projects if well cared-for.

Response:

I just bought myself a condo and I have a couple of questions I would like to ask, regarding some cosmetic repair. One, my condo has a fluorescent light in my dining area. I would love to get rid of it and get a overhead light with a regular bulb. Is it hard to do and is it possible to convert what kind of lighting you can have?? Second, I hate my bathroom vanity and medicine cabinet.  I  want to change it!!!! My question to all you wise people. Is it possible for me to do the work myself on the lighting in my dining room and replacing of the vanity and medicine cabinet with no experience what so ever. Is it really hard to do?? If I just got some tools and read some manuals, could I do the job myself?? I am finally on my own, and would like to do my own home improvements. Where could I start to learn??  I am willing to learn. Any thoughts on where I can start? How hard are the jobs I mentioned? I am very eager to learn. Please serious replies only… Thank you for comments… Please post in group or email me… I would like to have a cyber pal that could help me…

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I just bought myself a condo and I have a couple of questions I would >like to ask, regarding some cosmetic repair. >One, my condo has a fluorescent light in my dining area. I would love to >get rid of it and get a overhead light with a regular bulb. Is it hard >to do and is it possible to convert what kind of lighting you can have?? >Second, I hate my bathroom vanity and medicine cabinet.  I  want to >change it!!!! >My question to all you wise people. >Is it possible for me to do the work myself on the lighting in my dining >room and replacing of the vanity and medicine cabinet with no experience >what so ever. Is it really hard to do?? If I just got some tools and >read some manuals, could I do the job myself?? >I am finally on my own, and would like to do my own home improvements. >Where could I start to learn??  I am willing to learn. Any thoughts on >where I can start? How hard are the jobs I mentioned? I am very eager to >learn. Please serious replies only… >Thank you for comments… >Please post in group or email me… >I would like to have a cyber pal that could help me…

Yes , you can do those things . First get a tester for electricity and learn to use it . Take your time and don’t be too critical of your first efforts . Good luck ! Fred

Response:

> I just bought myself a condo and I have a couple of questions I would > like to ask, regarding some cosmetic repair. > One, my condo has a fluorescent light in my dining area. I would love to > get rid of it and get a overhead light with a regular bulb. Is it hard > to do and is it possible to convert what kind of lighting you can have?? > Second, I hate my bathroom vanity and medicine cabinet.  I  want to > change it!!!! > My question to all you wise people. > Is it possible for me to do the work myself…

I’m an amateur myself, so please take what I have to say in that context. If I were you, I’d go after the bathroom project first.  That actually isn’t too difficult of a job.  There are some very nice pre-built cabinets around, it will be a good experience in several different ways, and you can brush your teeth in the kitchen sink while you’re messing with it.  Take your time and try to make a good job of it. The lighting issue sounds like it might be more comlicated.  Your description isn’t sufficiently detailed for me to want to attempt an answer. Good lighting is an art.  Electrical work isn’t always complicated, but it definately can be.  I think this is something you may want to study up on more while you’re working on the bathroom. One final thought would be:  Try not to spend much money on anything you do.  Condos usually don’t appreciate much over time, if at all, Expect every dollar you spend to be for your own personal enjoyment while you live there, rather than an investment you will ultimately recover in the future. This is not necessarily a bad thing.  It means you should also learn how to be "cheap".  A smart shopper, so to speak.  That’s a good thing. Good luck! Harry Good luck!

Response:

Question:

>I thought EMT was made of aluminum?

Steel. >Here in NYC, we have to use BX cable so the conduit >has to be metal since it acts as the ground.

Not outdoors you don’t. You use IMC, which is aluminum threaded pipe, or Rigid which is steel threaded pipe. Under the NYC code that is, which went out the window 1/1/02 when the NEC was adopted. >I’ve used Schedule 40, etc for my plumbing but never >used the electrical conduit. Is it the same >principal when attaching – primer and glue?

Yes, but a lot fewer T’s and L’s LOL  I’m going >to dig up that Carlon book of mine and see for myself >> Which material is applicable to which use when running conduit >> of IMC, EMT or Ridgid. I have not used IMC yet, but I plan >> to run some conduit outdoors on the exterior of my house >> to add an auxilary outlet. >> I know that Ridgid is alot heaver than EMT and it’s rusts >> also so I will most likely be running EMT for this. Would >> this be correct and applicable?

I depends on where you are, if you do use EMT you must use compression fittings. Keep in mind you should provide for water to drain from low points because no matter how hard you try, a waterproof installation is impossible. Also, the wires you install must be rated for wet locations. >> What material is IMC made out of ?

Aluminum. > How does it differ from >> ridgid or emt?

It’s about as light as EMT but is installed like rigid. >In most cases it doesn’t matter which one you use, there are just different >rules for each like burial depths or certain locations may require a certain >type of conduit. The Rigid is the thickest, then IMC, and lastly EMT. They >are all typically steel and will all rust. I’ve seen aluminum conduit, but >it is quite expensive.

Yes.  I’m not sure whether you thread IMC like you do Rigid >conduit, or use couplers like EMT. I would think the outside of a house is >considered a wet area, so you’d need watertight connections. >Do you have any interest in nonmetallic rigid conduit (i.e. PVC pipe >conduit)? This would be the simplest and easiset thing to use, and it >doesn’t rust.

I agree, but it must be UV rated for above ground use. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->– >Mark >Kent, WA >Path: >lobby!ngtf-m01.news.aol.com!ngpeer.news.aol.com!howland.erols.net!cyclone

-sf.pbi.net!151.164.30.35!cyclone.swbell.net!easynews!nntp2.aus1.giganews. com!nntp.giganews.com!nntp3.aus1.giganews.com!bin5.nnrp.aus1.giganews.com. POSTED!not-for-mail >Newsgroups: alt.engineering.electrical, alt.home.repair >X-No-Archive: yes >MIME-Version: 1.0 >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >Lines: 42 >Organization: Giganews.Com – Premium News Outsourcing >X-Trace: >sv3-Fz7+0FMoJncF+BpdPsJZQWElMjSibwcgTpzqGt5vs9H8sxqqOIkm0JKBR9KPLZWeVGJeZ

bvqBMZwYhA!mm/7Z7Flp+0×9U4Imk8F0SjwVU+NUQ8FPhIx2Y26dHxU63M4YfXMFBwQWnspOj2C Pg== >X-DMCA-Notifications: http://www.giganews.com/info/dmca.html >X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers >X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly >Xref: lobby alt.engineering.electrical:103191 alt.home.repair:449695

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Response:

Use a cast aluminum box, attach the ears in back so they stuck out a little. The box is tapered so you want the ears about even with the front edge, maybe a little more. Then they just mortar the box in like a brick. Just be sure your raceway is accessible on the other side or the box is prewired,

Response:

[posted and mailed] Kim found time to post this to alt.home.repair: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I guess I could always make sure they make a snug cut for the box, > and use use pl2000, or whatever leftover adhesive I have at the moment > open and use it along the box. > Is this acceptable? The box will be steel with a dedicated run of 12/3 > BX cable from the breaker. >I’m having my bricks repointed and I plan to add a dedicated GFCI >outlet to the outside porch. >I will be having the masonry crew cut out a hole for the metal outlet >box in the bricks. Are there any special *masonary* boxes out there >that is meant to held in place with wings, clips, etc? Looking for a >single gang box that will fit in brick…the question is how to keep >it in place? >There are masonry boxes for electrical outlets, and they are held in >place with the mortar that the brick layer uses to set the bricks. >Believe it, the box will be secure in the brick wall.  Don’t use a >regular, gangable switch box for this.  It is too narrow, and the GFCI >receptacle will be too snug.  Also, use a deep box.  This will give >more room in the rear of the receptacle for formation of the wire.

You can always surface mount the weather proof box to the brick. But the last house I wired had an all brick exterior. For the outdoor GFI’s in the front, I just wired to a weather proof box, and left it hanging there. The mason’s took over from there. They brick around it, somehow. I was never there for that part of it. — It takes a big man to cry, but it takes an even bigger man to laugh at that man.

Response:

I like the photosensor idea.  It is also possible, that the always hot circuit serving the fixture was brought to the fixture first, then a 14/2 romex from the fixture to the switch (to break the power).  You would have to describe in detail the wiring in the fixture and switch box for help. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Is it possible to wire a outlet from a switched lamp but have the > receptacle outlet on 24/7. > I currently have an outdoor lamp above my outside door that is > switched on and off. This also controls the outlet that is connected > to outside. I have to switch the light on in order to use the outlet. > Is it possible for me to rewire it so that the outlet is on 24/7, > therefore I don’t need to turn the lamp on just to use the outlet. > Fishing a new line from inside the walls is not a viable option….

Response:

If you look at an oulet at you will see that there are small jumpers on it, by the screws hwere the wire goes. so that you can make each outlet independant from eqach other. you can wire one to a light switch and the other to constant power.

Response:

I’m having my bricks repointed and I plan to add a dedicated GFCI outlet to the outside porch. I will be having the masonry crew cut out a hole for the metal outlet box in the bricks. Are there any special *masonary* boxes out there that is meant to held in place with wings, clips, etc? Looking for a single gang box that will fit in brick…the question is how to keep it in place? There are masonry boxes for electrical outlets, and they are held in place with the mortar that the brick layer uses to set the bricks.  Believe it, the box will be secure in the brick wall.  Don’t use a regular, gangable switch box for this.  It is too narrow, and the GFCI receptacle will be too snug.  Also, use a deep box.  This will give more room in the rear of the receptacle for formation of the wire.

Response:

>PVC (sched 40 or 80) is easy to work with except for bending, which requires >a heater.

You don’t just stick it up the tail pipe of your truck?  

Response:

>I know that Ridgid is alot heaver than EMT and it’s rusts >also so I will most likely be running EMT for this. Would >this be correct and applicable?

You can also use galvanized water pipe. It is allowed for extreme conditions for protection.  It gets applied similar to rigid, but you can’t cut or bend it. For outside, be sure to paint the threads as they will rust. A typical use is to rise an freestanding outlet outside, or where it may be (or more like to replace one that has been) hit by a car.

Response:

>You can also use galvanized water pipe. It is allowed for extreme >conditions for protection.  It gets applied similar to rigid, but you >can’t cut or bend it. For outside, be sure to paint the threads as they >will rust. >A typical use is to rise an freestanding outlet outside, or where it may >be (or more like to replace one that has been) hit by a car.

Just do what I did- Use 3/4" PVC underground, but make the stup-up 90s from PVC coated galv. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Response:

> I thought EMT was made of aluminum? > Here in NYC, we have to use BX cable so the conduit > has to be metal since it acts as the ground. > I’ve used Schedule 40, etc for my plumbing but never > used the electrical conduit. Is it the same > principal when attaching – primer and glue? I’m going > to dig up that Carlon book of mine and see for myself

    For outside wiring in conduit your best bet is Aluminum Heavywall. It’s schedule 40, threads like pipe, and is best assembled with anti corrosive compound. It does not rust or corrode and is very easy to bend.     Plastic Schedule 40 conduit is assembled the same way as plastic plumbing, except that it bends with heat.  Be prepared to screw up as many plastic bends as you did when learning how to bend conduit. This is especially true if bending anything over an inch plastic. Best Wishes John M. Hansen

Response:

Rigid and IMC are essentially interchangeable.  Both are heavy walled (rigid being heavier), both can be threaded (which may be required in some applications), both are difficult or impossible  to bend by hand in 1" and larger sizes, and both are designed for applications where conduit may be subjected to severe abuse.  EMT is thin walled and much easier to work with.   When used outdoors, they will show at least some rust eventually unless painted at intervals. PVC (sched 40 or 80) is easy to work with except for bending, which requires a heater.  Some people use a heat gun but you can get distortion or melting  easier than when using a specially designed heater (these start at about $200).  PVC expands/contracts more with temperature changes; so long runs should have expansion fittings periodically. Before you decide, consult your local building dept.  Local codes and interpretation of NEC can vary a lot with regard to outdoor conduit.  I’d try to use PVC if at all possible for an outdoor location. Mike : Which material is applicable to which use when running conduit : of IMC, EMT or Ridgid. I have not used IMC yet, but I plan : to run some conduit outdoors on the exterior of my house : to add an auxilary outlet. : I know that Ridgid is alot heaver than EMT and it’s rusts : also so I will most likely be running EMT for this. Would : this be correct and applicable? : What material is IMC made out of ? How does it differ from : ridgid or emt?

Response:

> Which material is applicable to which use when running conduit > of IMC, EMT or Ridgid. I have not used IMC yet, but I plan > to run some conduit outdoors on the exterior of my house > to add an auxilary outlet. > I know that Ridgid is alot heaver than EMT and it’s rusts > also so I will most likely be running EMT for this. Would > this be correct and applicable? > What material is IMC made out of ? How does it differ from > ridgid or emt?

In most cases it doesn’t matter which one you use, there are just different rules for each like burial depths or certain locations may require a certain type of conduit. The Rigid is the thickest, then IMC, and lastly EMT. They are all typically steel and will all rust. I’ve seen aluminum conduit, but it is quite expensive. I’m not sure whether you thread IMC like you do Rigid conduit, or use couplers like EMT. I would think the outside of a house is considered a wet area, so you’d need watertight connections. Do you have any interest in nonmetallic rigid conduit (i.e. PVC pipe conduit)? This would be the simplest and easiset thing to use, and it doesn’t rust. — Mark Kent, WA

Response:

Question:

On an Electrician’s truck: "Let us remove your shorts." In a Non-smoking area: "If we see you smoking we will assume you are on fire and take appropriate action." On Maternity Room door: "Push, Push, Push." At an Optometrist’s Office: "If you don’t see what you’re looking for, you’ve come to the right place." On a Taxidermist’s window: "We really know our stuff." In a Podiatrist’s window: "Time wounds all heels." On a Butcher’s window: "Let me meat your needs." On a fence: "Salesmen welcome.  Dog food is expensive." At a Car Dealership: "The best way to get back on your feet – miss a car payment." Outside a Muffler Shop: "No appointment necessary. We’ll hear you coming." Outside a Hotel: "Help!  We need inn-experienced people." In a Dry Cleaner’s Emporium: "Drop your pants here." On a desk in a Reception Room: "We shoot every 3rd salesman, and the 2nd one just left." In a Veterinarian’s waiting room: "Be back in 5 minutes. Sit!  Stay!" On a Music Teacher’s door: "Out Chopin." At the Electric Company: "We would be delighted if you send in your  bill.  However, if you don’t, you will be." On the door of a Computer Store: "Out for a quick byte." In a Restaurant window: "Don’t stand there and be hungry, come in and get fed up." Inside a Bowling Alley: "Please be quiet. We need to hear a pin drop." In the front yard of a Funeral Home: "Drive carefully, we’ll wait." In a Counsellor’s office: "Growing old is mandatory. Growing wise is optional." Plumber’s advert: "We repair what your husband fixed." On the trucks of a local plumbing company in NE Pennsylvania: "Don’t sleep with a drip, call your plumber!!" Pizza shop slogan: 7 days without pizza makes one Weak!! At a Tire shop in Milwaukee: "Invite us to your next blow-out." Door of a plastic surgeon’s office: Hello, can we pick your nose? Sign at the psychic’s Hotline: Don’t call us, We’ll call you. At A Laundry shop: How about we refund your money Send you a new one at no charge Close the store and have the manager shot. Would that be satisfactory? ‘Signed Customer Service’ At a towing company: "We won’t charge an arm and a leg. We want tows." Billboard on the side of the road: "Keep your eyes on the road and stop reading these signs"

Response:

One to add! Real-estate "For Sale" sign on property with house across the town Cemetery:     Best deal in town.  Your second to last stop. I did check out the property, but it was full of termites. Carrie ;o)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> On an Electrician’s truck: "Let us remove your shorts." > In a Non-smoking area: "If we see you smoking we will > assume you are on fire and take appropriate action." > On Maternity Room door: "Push, Push, Push." > At an Optometrist’s Office: "If you don’t see what you’re > looking for, you’ve come to the right place." > On a Taxidermist’s window: "We really know our stuff." > In a Podiatrist’s window: "Time wounds all heels." > On a Butcher’s window: "Let me meat your needs." > On a fence: "Salesmen welcome.  Dog food is expensive." > At a Car Dealership: "The best way to get back on your > feet – miss a car payment." > Outside a Muffler Shop: "No appointment necessary. > We’ll hear you coming." > Outside a Hotel: "Help!  We need inn-experienced people." > In a Dry Cleaner’s Emporium: "Drop your pants here." > On a desk in a Reception Room: "We shoot every 3rd > salesman, and the 2nd one just left." > In a Veterinarian’s waiting room: "Be back in 5 minutes. > Sit!  Stay!" > On a Music Teacher’s door: "Out Chopin." > At the Electric Company: "We would be delighted if you > send in your  bill.  However, if you don’t, you will be." > On the door of a Computer Store: "Out for a quick byte." > In a Restaurant window: "Don’t stand there and be hungry, > come in and get fed up." > Inside a Bowling Alley: "Please be quiet. We need to hear > a pin drop." > In the front yard of a Funeral Home: "Drive carefully, we’ll wait." > In a Counsellor’s office: "Growing old is mandatory. > Growing wise is optional." > Plumber’s advert: > "We repair what your husband fixed." > On the trucks of a local plumbing company > in NE Pennsylvania: > "Don’t sleep with a drip, call your plumber!!" > Pizza shop slogan: > 7 days without pizza makes one Weak!! > At a Tire shop in Milwaukee: > "Invite us to your next blow-out." > Door of a plastic surgeon’s office: > Hello, can we pick your nose? > Sign at the psychic’s Hotline: > Don’t call us, We’ll call you. > At A Laundry shop: > How about we refund your money Send you a new > one at no charge Close the store and have the > manager shot. Would that be satisfactory? > ‘Signed Customer Service’ > At a towing company: > "We won’t charge an arm and a leg. We want tows." > Billboard on the side of the road: > "Keep your eyes on the road and stop > reading these signs"

Response:

On an Electrician’s truck: "Let us remove your shorts." In a Non-smoking area: "If we see you smoking we will assume you are on fire and take appropriate action." On Maternity Room door: "Push, Push, Push." At an Optometrist’s Office: "If you don’t see what you’re looking for, you’ve come to the right place." On a Taxidermist’s window: "We really know our stuff." In a Podiatrist’s window: "Time wounds all heels." On a Butcher’s window: "Let me meat your needs." On a fence: "Salesmen welcome.  Dog food is expensive." At a Car Dealership: "The best way to get back on your feet – miss a car payment." Outside a Muffler Shop: "No appointment necessary. We’ll hear you coming." Outside a Hotel: "Help!  We need inn-experienced people." In a Dry Cleaner’s Emporium: "Drop your pants here." On a desk in a Reception Room: "We shoot every 3rd salesman, and the 2nd one just left." In a Veterinarian’s waiting room: "Be back in 5 minutes. Sit!  Stay!" On a Music Teacher’s door: "Out Chopin." At the Electric Company: "We would be delighted if you send in your  bill.  However, if you don’t, you will be." On the door of a Computer Store: "Out for a quick byte." In a Restaurant window: "Don’t stand there and be hungry, come in and get fed up." Inside a Bowling Alley: "Please be quiet. We need to hear a pin drop." In the front yard of a Funeral Home: "Drive carefully, we’ll wait." In a Counsellor’s office: "Growing old is mandatory. Growing wise is optional." Plumber’s advert: "We repair what your husband fixed." On the trucks of a local plumbing company in NE Pennsylvania: "Don’t sleep with a drip, call your plumber!!" Pizza shop slogan: 7 days without pizza makes one Weak!! At a Tire shop in Milwaukee: "Invite us to your next blow-out." Door of a plastic surgeon’s office: Hello, can we pick your nose? Sign at the psychic’s Hotline: Don’t call us, We’ll call you. At A Laundry shop: How about we refund your money Send you a new one at no charge Close the store and have the manager shot. Would that be satisfactory? ‘Signed Customer Service’ At a towing company: "We won’t charge an arm and a leg. We want tows." Billboard on the side of the road: "Keep your eyes on the road and stop reading these signs"

Response:

One to add! Real-estate "For Sale" sign on property with house across the town Cemetery:     Best deal in town.  Your second to last stop. I did check out the property, but it was full of termites. Carrie ;o)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> On an Electrician’s truck: "Let us remove your shorts." > In a Non-smoking area: "If we see you smoking we will > assume you are on fire and take appropriate action." > On Maternity Room door: "Push, Push, Push." > At an Optometrist’s Office: "If you don’t see what you’re > looking for, you’ve come to the right place." > On a Taxidermist’s window: "We really know our stuff." > In a Podiatrist’s window: "Time wounds all heels." > On a Butcher’s window: "Let me meat your needs." > On a fence: "Salesmen welcome.  Dog food is expensive." > At a Car Dealership: "The best way to get back on your > feet – miss a car payment." > Outside a Muffler Shop: "No appointment necessary. > We’ll hear you coming." > Outside a Hotel: "Help!  We need inn-experienced people." > In a Dry Cleaner’s Emporium: "Drop your pants here." > On a desk in a Reception Room: "We shoot every 3rd > salesman, and the 2nd one just left." > In a Veterinarian’s waiting room: "Be back in 5 minutes. > Sit!  Stay!" > On a Music Teacher’s door: "Out Chopin." > At the Electric Company: "We would be delighted if you > send in your  bill.  However, if you don’t, you will be." > On the door of a Computer Store: "Out for a quick byte." > In a Restaurant window: "Don’t stand there and be hungry, > come in and get fed up." > Inside a Bowling Alley: "Please be quiet. We need to hear > a pin drop." > In the front yard of a Funeral Home: "Drive carefully, we’ll wait." > In a Counsellor’s office: "Growing old is mandatory. > Growing wise is optional." > Plumber’s advert: > "We repair what your husband fixed." > On the trucks of a local plumbing company > in NE Pennsylvania: > "Don’t sleep with a drip, call your plumber!!" > Pizza shop slogan: > 7 days without pizza makes one Weak!! > At a Tire shop in Milwaukee: > "Invite us to your next blow-out." > Door of a plastic surgeon’s office: > Hello, can we pick your nose? > Sign at the psychic’s Hotline: > Don’t call us, We’ll call you. > At A Laundry shop: > How about we refund your money Send you a new > one at no charge Close the store and have the > manager shot. Would that be satisfactory? > ‘Signed Customer Service’ > At a towing company: > "We won’t charge an arm and a leg. We want tows." > Billboard on the side of the road: > "Keep your eyes on the road and stop > reading these signs"

Response: