Posts belonging to Category 'Electric Window Part'

[Fwd: Who sent this -]

Question:

Like I care-

[ Attached Message ]

To: Local:

Who sent this – Marc – Here’s the e-mail that was sent to me last week: Print – Close Window X-Originating-IP: [216.136.128.62] Authentication-Results: mta255.mail.mud.yahoo.com from=yahoo.com; domainkeys=pass (ok) Received: from 216.136.128.62 (HELO mr106.mail.sc5.yahoo.com) (216.136.128.62) by mta255.mail.mud.yahoo.com with SMTP; Mon, 03 Apr 2006 12:31:22 -0700 Received: from web38408.mail.mud.yahoo.com (209.191.125.39) by mr1.mail.vip.sc5.yahoo.com with Received: (qmail 75639 invoked by uid 60001); 3 Apr 2006 15:17:50 -0000 DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=s1024; d=yahoo.com; b=nZCM4SEPamhvOVk1WVtTWGQhN8dasV61olArjDyWh6RxVH/ZRB6zFgMAJzxB0KKO5Xvf3kHe2 nOdWOfWN1lBlCPUlw2SpGK/4wbJdYCidUQWEHZPgIC93WDnuNuvetGT80oAeu0gxn9TOJh6lVbM xjIuEuG/HtykmjaJmwaH79I= ; Received: from [67.38.235.242] by web38408.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP; Mon, 03 Apr 2006 08:17:50 PDT MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="0-2011753656-1144077470=:73640" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Content-Length: 644 Mike Campbell Saratoga Springs, NY Employer: OFT (Office for Technology), NY State. A triangulation method used to dredge it up, it may be a hit. Throw it up there & see what kind of a result it generates? More data is available if it results in a high pucker factor….. All the best, Bob Who is Horseshoe Bob? You? Bill Kahle? This is where I got the info on Mike Campbell and posted to AGA under a Tip Dover sock I assume it is Bill Kahle and both of you have been communicating about smoking out Tip Dover. You obviously know something as you responded on AGA by posting my name and address after I posted the Mike Campbell info. Please do not post my personal information. If you have any suspicions or questions, just ask me. I have no interest in dragging you through the mud and have limited time for all of this anyway. Thanks. Mark PS – Yesterday, someone sent an e-mail to the KK address in an attempt to collect the password to my Yahoo account. My suspicions are, in order: 1. Tip Dover 2. Bill Kahle 3. DGDevin Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Like I care- > Marc – > Here’s the e-mail that was sent to me last week: > Print – Close Window > X-Originating-IP: [216.136.128.62] > Authentication-Results: mta255.mail.mud.yahoo.com > from=yahoo.com; domainkeys=pass (ok) > Received: from 216.136.128.62 (HELO > mr106.mail.sc5.yahoo.com) (216.136.128.62) by > mta255.mail.mud.yahoo.com with SMTP; Mon, 03 Apr 2006 > 12:31:22 -0700 > Received: from web38408.mail.mud.yahoo.com > (209.191.125.39) by mr1.mail.vip.sc5.yahoo.com with > Received: (qmail 75639 invoked by uid 60001); 3 Apr > 2006 15:17:50 -0000 > DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; > s=s1024; d=yahoo.com; > b=nZCM4SEPamhvOVk1WVtTWGQhN8dasV61olArjDyWh6RxVH/ZRB6zFgMAJzxB0KKO5Xvf3kHe2 nOdWOfWN1lBlCPUlw2SpGK/4wbJdYCidUQWEHZPgIC93WDnuNuvetGT80oAeu0gxn9TOJh6lVbM xjIuEuG/HtykmjaJmwaH79I= > ; > Received: from [67.38.235.242] by > web38408.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP; Mon, 03 Apr 2006 > 08:17:50 PDT > MIME-Version: 1.0 > Content-Type: multipart/alternative; > boundary="0-2011753656-1144077470=:73640" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > Content-Length: 644 > Mike Campbell > Saratoga Springs, NY > Employer: OFT (Office for Technology), NY State. > A triangulation method used to > dredge it up, it may be a hit. Throw it > up there & see what kind of a result > it generates? More data is available if > it results in a high pucker factor….. > All the best, > Bob > Who is Horseshoe Bob? You? Bill Kahle? > This is where I got the info on Mike Campbell and > posted to AGA under a Tip Dover sock > I assume it is Bill Kahle and both of you have been > communicating about smoking out Tip Dover. You > obviously know something as you responded on AGA by > posting my name and address after I posted the Mike > Campbell info. > Please do not post my personal information. If you > have any suspicions or questions, just ask me. I have > no interest in dragging you through the mud and have > limited time for all of this anyway. > Thanks. > Mark > PS – Yesterday, someone sent an e-mail to the KK > address in an attempt to collect the password to my > Yahoo account. My suspicions are, in order: > 1. Tip Dover > 2. Bill Kahle > 3. DGDevin > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com

Just an observation from the sideline. AGA finds itself with a two part, three part problem. There is the OT political camp, and the instigating agitating king of the hill camp. Add in the magna traction and the unifying force that gave it’s birth and appearance to the sandbox of this public forum, AGA. Thus, the many on the side lines who now find AGA worthless, as the kids are at play, with a killer’s grip, their war games, to be King of the hill. So, now as it instigate’s escalates the agitate in both camps, critical mass approaches. I’ve seen this before many times on CB radio. Where, it reached a point, one fellow walked up to the other guy’s front door, rang the bell, and shot the guy in the head with a 357, who answered the call, in broad day light. Case in point, channel 10 on the band, location, newark NJ. Another found an ax in the front door, left as a calling card. Case in point, channel 10, location, Irvington NJ. Another found their house ventilated with 9 mm holes, from a drive by. Case in point, channel 18, location Orange NJ. Another case, one instigating agitating personality was found on a mountain top in the dark of night, thinking he was safe, when a group of guys got the drop on him, put a gun to his head, and beat the living shit out of him. Case in point, channel 18, location Orange NJ. Did it make the late night TV news of the papers. Nope, never seen it. Are these events true. You bet your sweet ass they are, as the guys are STILL serving time for the crime. I saw this coming, before it arrived here in AGA, way back at the time we talked about putting up an AGA web site, and one individual was not going to play ball with the rest, and I saw the writing on the wall. That, others did not want to SEE. So, guys…. here we sit left to ride the wake some would call the legacy of a SINGLE instigating agitator. So, to some, in this, there is meaning to their life. God help those stuck on the side lines. <thinking> One day back in the late ’60s, while southbound on the NJ GSP, there was a pair of sneakers with the laces tied together, hanging from a high tension electrical wire running clear across the GSP. It must have been 50 foot above the cars traveling under them. Why, were they there. Who would do such a thing. As the years went by, all the travelers on the south bound GSP watched those sneakers rot from the weather. Guess what. They are no longer there, for anyone to notice, or even talk about. So, in closing, it would be logical if one wants to leave their mark along the path their life takes them of others to see, leave something more permanent, that really matters to others. Otherwise, you were nothing more than a temporary pair of sneakers, or topic of conversation, while the memory lasts. Most, wouldn’t give a shit anyway. What is all boils down to is,…. it’s not who you are that counts. But, what you do, that counts. My 2 cents, and I’m out of here. I’m going to sit on the side lines and get some sleep. Regards, Rich Koerner, Time Electronics. http://www.timeelect.com Specialists in Live Sound FOH Engineering, Music & Studio Production, Vintage Instruments, and Tube Amplifiers

Response:

> I’m going to sit on the side lines and get some sleep. > Regards, > Rich Koerner

Piscataway NJ…Dana Point, CA

Response:

Ahh, Rich we ARE our actions. My hat’s off personally for still slugging it out in the mess that has become the music industry. I pussied out years ago and went to school. Why do people forget music is a PERFORMING art? Recording is so secondary.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Like I care- > Marc – > Here’s the e-mail that was sent to me last week: > Print – Close Window > X-Originating-IP: [216.136.128.62] > Authentication-Results: mta255.mail.mud.yahoo.com > from=yahoo.com; domainkeys=pass (ok) > Received: from 216.136.128.62 (HELO > mr106.mail.sc5.yahoo.com) (216.136.128.62) by > mta255.mail.mud.yahoo.com with SMTP; Mon, 03 Apr 2006 > 12:31:22 -0700 > Received: from web38408.mail.mud.yahoo.com > (209.191.125.39) by mr1.mail.vip.sc5.yahoo.com with > Received: (qmail 75639 invoked by uid 60001); 3 Apr > 2006 15:17:50 -0000 > DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; > s=s1024; d=yahoo.com; > b=nZCM4SEPamhvOVk1WVtTWGQhN8dasV61olArjDyWh6RxVH/ZRB6zFgMAJzxB0KKO5Xvf3kHe2 nOdWOfWN1lBlCPUlw2SpGK/4wbJdYCidUQWEHZPgIC93WDnuNuvetGT80oAeu0gxn9TOJh6lVbM xjIuEuG/HtykmjaJmwaH79I= > ; > Received: from [67.38.235.242] by > web38408.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP; Mon, 03 Apr 2006 > 08:17:50 PDT > MIME-Version: 1.0 > Content-Type: multipart/alternative; > boundary="0-2011753656-1144077470=:73640" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > Content-Length: 644 > Mike Campbell > Saratoga Springs, NY > Employer: OFT (Office for Technology), NY State. > A triangulation method used to > dredge it up, it may be a hit. Throw it > up there & see what kind of a result > it generates? More data is available if > it results in a high pucker factor….. > All the best, > Bob > Who is Horseshoe Bob? You? Bill Kahle? > This is where I got the info on Mike Campbell and > posted to AGA under a Tip Dover sock > I assume it is Bill Kahle and both of you have been > communicating about smoking out Tip Dover. You > obviously know something as you responded on AGA by > posting my name and address after I posted the Mike > Campbell info. > Please do not post my personal information. If you > have any suspicions or questions, just ask me. I have > no interest in dragging you through the mud and have > limited time for all of this anyway. > Thanks. > Mark > PS – Yesterday, someone sent an e-mail to the KK > address in an attempt to collect the password to my > Yahoo account. My suspicions are, in order: > 1. Tip Dover > 2. Bill Kahle > 3. DGDevin > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > Just an observation from the sideline. > AGA finds itself with a two part, three part problem. > There is the OT political camp, and the instigating agitating king of the > hill camp. > Add in the magna traction and the unifying force that gave it’s birth and > appearance to the sandbox > of this public forum, AGA. > Thus, the many on the side lines who now find AGA worthless, as the kids > are at play, with a > killer’s grip, their war games, to be King of the hill. > So, now as it instigate’s escalates the agitate in both camps, critical > mass approaches. > I’ve seen this before many times on CB radio. Where, it reached a point, > one fellow walked up to > the other guy’s front door, rang the bell, and shot the guy in the head > with a 357, who answered the > call, in broad day light. Case in point, channel 10 on the band, > location, newark NJ. > Another found an ax in the front door, left as a calling card. Case in > point, channel 10, location, > Irvington NJ. > Another found their house ventilated with 9 mm holes, from a drive by. > Case in point, channel 18, > location Orange NJ. > Another case, one instigating agitating personality was found on a > mountain top in the dark of > night, thinking he was safe, when a group of guys got the drop on him, put > a gun to his head, and > beat the living shit out of him. Case in point, channel 18, location > Orange NJ. > Did it make the late night TV news of the papers. Nope, never seen it. > Are these events true. You bet your sweet ass they are, as the guys are > STILL serving time for the > crime. > I saw this coming, before it arrived here in AGA, way back at the time we > talked about putting up an > AGA web site, and one individual was not going to play ball with the rest, > and I saw the writing on > the wall. That, others did not want to SEE. > So, guys…. here we sit left to ride the wake some would call the legacy > of a SINGLE instigating > agitator. > So, to some, in this, there is meaning to their life. > God help those stuck on the side lines. > <thinking> > One day back in the late ’60s, while southbound on the NJ GSP, there was a > pair of sneakers with the > laces tied together, hanging from a high tension electrical wire running > clear across the GSP. It > must have been 50 foot above the cars traveling under them. > Why, were they there. > Who would do such a thing. > As the years went by, all the travelers on the south bound GSP watched > those sneakers rot from the > weather. > Guess what. > They are no longer there, for anyone to notice, or even talk about. > So, in closing, it would be logical if one wants to leave their mark along > the path their life takes > them of others to see, leave something more permanent, that really matters > to others. > Otherwise, you were nothing more than a temporary pair of sneakers, or > topic of conversation, while > the memory lasts. > Most, wouldn’t give a shit anyway. > What is all boils down to is,…. it’s not who you are that counts. > But, what you do, that counts. > My 2 cents, and I’m out of here. > I’m going to sit on the side lines and get some sleep. > Regards, > Rich Koerner, > Time Electronics. > http://www.timeelect.com > Specialists in Live Sound FOH Engineering, > Music & Studio Production, > Vintage Instruments, and Tube Amplifiers

Response:

Category Categories: Electric Window Part | No Comments »

Whats it worth?

Question:

I built a replica of a Tweed Fender Princeton (5f2-a), and have been thinking about selling it. Its a handmade all tube amp built very close to original specs (a few small voltage adjustments made to compensate for modern household line voltages). It is housed in a beautiful Tweed covered combo cab with a really nice shiney chassis, and has a jensen Alnico 10" speaker installed (its the biigger box version). What is an amp like this worth? Should I offer to sell it here before putting it on eBay, or does that break the rules of this group?

Response:

> I built a replica of a Tweed Fender Princeton (5f2-a), and have been > thinking about selling it. Its a handmade all tube amp built very close to > original specs (a few small voltage adjustments made to compensate for > modern household line voltages). It is housed in a beautiful Tweed covered > combo cab with a really nice shiney chassis, and has a jensen Alnico 10" > speaker installed (its the biigger box version). > What is an amp like this worth? > Should I offer to sell it here before putting it on eBay, or does that break > the rules of this group?

What I would do is price it against what a similar vintage Princeton would go for and then go a bit lower. I think what you’ll find is that people who are going to be interested in that type of amp are going to prefer to get an original Fender. Additionally, while it might be a very nice amplifier, it’s home brew and doesn’t have an automatic resale value like a named brand would. One thing I’ve learned from reading this group and doing some other research is that building your own amplifier has to be a labor of love as it actually costs more to DIY than buy a production model. Since your amp is an unknown, I think your best bet is to sell it locally where potential buyers can check it out and hear what it sounds like in person.

Response:

Ebay seems to be the forum to maximize your sales price. Unless you "have a name" and a following, you might want to set a reasonable reserve so that it doesn’t go too low. I’d be hesitant to bid without a written return policy. If you state the following, you’ll probably have the best shot: "I’m so convinced that you’ll love this amp that I’ll gladly return your purchase price if returned in original condition within X days of your receipt. Bid with confidence!"

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I built a replica of a Tweed Fender Princeton (5f2-a), and have been > thinking about selling it. Its a handmade all tube amp built very close to > original specs (a few small voltage adjustments made to compensate for > modern household line voltages). It is housed in a beautiful Tweed covered > combo cab with a really nice shiney chassis, and has a jensen Alnico 10" > speaker installed (its the biigger box version). > What is an amp like this worth? > Should I offer to sell it here before putting it on eBay, or does that break > the rules of this group? >What I would do is price it against what a similar vintage Princeton >would go for and then go a bit lower. I think what you’ll find is that >people who are going to be interested in that type of amp are going to >prefer to get an original Fender. Additionally, while it might be a >very nice amplifier, it’s home brew and doesn’t have an automatic >resale value like a named brand would.

I agree. The name brand should sell more, even if the homerolled amp is better by all accounts. >One thing I’ve learned from reading this group and doing some other >research is that building your own amplifier has to be a labor of love >as it actually costs more to DIY than buy a production model.

Good points. And these things are always worth more to the seller, than the amp market because of the personal involvement. Where the real amp might have some investment value, it’s very understandable that the homerolled amp doesn’t. >Since your amp is an unknown, I think your best bet is to sell it >locally where potential buyers can check it out and hear what it sounds >like in person.

I’m not sure if that’s completely true that it’s the best bet. But if you can decide what it’s worth, then why not try to sell it on the local market? If it doesn’t sell locally, the internet (usually means Ebay) exposes the amp to a much wider market. If you can find a buyer on aga, it might be a whole lot less hassle than dealing with Ebay. fwiw, I don’t have a clue what it’s worth. Pete — I still have room to think. Bring me more information! –Dr. Cerebral

Response:

Easy way to find out. Put it on Ebay with a starting price of a dollar and no reserve. Whatever it sells for, that’s what it’s worth! Chris

Response:

>fwiw, I don’t have a clue what it’s worth. >Pete

How much is invested in the amp in parts? Pete — I still have room to think. Bring me more information! –Dr. Cerebral

Response:

A home-built tweed champ clone with a crap speaker swapped in went for $255 on E-bay recently. I guess you have a tone control and you did put in a bigger speaker. So maybe you can get $300 or so on a good day if they really like the tweed look as well as sound. But if $50 more gets a blackface champ, why should people buy yours? A home-built plain cabinet 5F2A w/10" went for $250.

Response:

> What is an amp like this worth? > Should I offer to sell it here before putting it on eBay, or does that break > the rules of this group?

There is no stinking rules in this group ! Don’t expect to get what you put into it in cost back. Post some photos some where and let’s see what it looks like, You never know.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->What is an amp like this worth? >Should I offer to sell it here before putting it on eBay, or does that > break >the rules of this group? > There is no stinking rules in this group ! > Don’t expect to get what you put into > it in cost back. Post some photos some where > and let’s see what it looks like, You never know.

Hi, Yup. No matter how well done, home brew or assembled kit never bring back the cost involved. For me I just do it from now and then for fun. If I sell, I never forget this long standing fact in real world. Having fun in itself has value(?). I’d think so, LOL. Tony

Response:

> What is an amp like this worth? > Should I offer to sell it here before putting it on eBay, or does that > break > the rules of this group? > There is no stinking rules in this group ! > Don’t expect to get what you put into > it in cost back. Post some photos some where > and let’s see what it looks like, You never know.

There’s no rules… except, no postie no pikky here. __ Steve .

Response:

Hi, The old Princeton was a nice little amp. If you used all new parts and the repro transformers, the amp is worth what any of the new reproduction Fender Champ or Princetons are worth. But, it will not be worth as much as an original. Such an amp is probably worth around $350.00 or so. Since it is new, and if you did a real professional job on the amp, it could be worth more, especially if you sell it with a warrantee like Fender does when you buy one of their new amps. But if you sell it as – is and it is a rather amateur looking job, you may only be able to recover the cost of parts. Make sure you have several detailed pictures of the amp and offer it here first. See if you get any bites. I don’t think it would break the rules but maybe I’m wrong. What’s the worse they could do? I mean it is a guitar amp and this is alt.guitar.amps. If you put it on ebay, have a reserve of at least the cost of the parts. A tube amp is worth at least that. Bill B. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I built a replica of a Tweed Fender Princeton (5f2-a), and have been > thinking about selling it. Its a handmade all tube amp built very close to > original specs (a few small voltage adjustments made to compensate for > modern household line voltages). It is housed in a beautiful Tweed covered > combo cab with a really nice shiney chassis, and has a jensen Alnico 10" > speaker installed (its the biigger box version). > What is an amp like this worth? > Should I offer to sell it here before putting it on eBay, or does that break > the rules of this group?

Response:

Whatever the market will bear on a given day. As Bill B. says, it’s worth at least the cost of the parts. If you used a quality cabinet, a good chassis (e.g. WeberVST), and good transformers (e.g. Mercury Magnetics), that sum could be quite a bit. If your soldering is up to snuff, and your layout is careful, it will be worth a little more. No, it won’t be worth nearly as much as an original tweed Fender, but if you’re using the same parts as everybody else, and the workmanship is good, the quality should be roughly the same as any boutique 5F2. As others have said, though, the lack of a track record and warranty will lower the price. Expect around $300-$400 if all is in perfect shape. > Should I offer to sell it here before putting it on eBay, or > does that break the rules of this group?

Rules? Here? Ha! Of course not. Offer away. Either way, good pictures are a requirement. Regards, –E

Response:

>A home-built tweed champ clone with a crap speaker swapped in went for > $255 on E-bay recently.

Just over a year ago I paid $250 for a SF Champ on eBay that had been gutted and rebuilt. It looks stock, but when the Volume Knob is in, it runs through a BF Tone Stack, and when the Volume Knob is pulled out, it runs through a Tweed Tone Stack. It has replaced my BF Champ as my around the house noise maker. See ya, John

Response:

I have a friend with an 1965 newport, It has a BB with a 2bbl stromberg carb, I am guessing it is a 383, anyway the car has a 8 3/4 rear end and runs good, he wants $200 for the car. I really don’t need the car but would buy it if the motor and rear end had some value, I don’t no the HP or anything, can someone tell me what motor and if its worth 200? —

Response:

> I have a friend with an 1965 newport, It has a BB with a 2bbl stromberg > carb, I am guessing it is a 383, anyway the car has a 8 3/4 rear end and > runs good, he wants $200 for the car. I really don’t need the car but would > buy it if the motor and rear end had some value, I don’t no the HP or > anything, can someone tell me what motor and if its worth 200? > —

Hi Chad, I gave a ‘66 Newport to my brother with the same setup; I had the car several years. The 383 2-bbl put out 270HP those years. Couldn’t tell you if the car is worth $200 without a description but it probably is. BTW, where is the car located? If you decide you don’t want it and it’s driveable I may be interested, as those Chryslers are among my favorites. Thanks, — 608

Category Categories: Electric Window Part | No Comments »

E46 Electric seats discomfort

Question:

>I haven’t had a problem with my 325i, but my sister had a problem with > her sciatica nerve when she first changed from her VW to a 320i. > Didn’t think of the car untill the doctor asked if she had changed > seats at work. Moved the seat around a bit and problem went away.

Six weeks prior to back surgery for a herniated disc, I drove my E46 328i (with sport seats) on a four day, 2300 mile business trip. Experimenting with position and lumbar support made the trip bearable – although I still don’t care for the non adjustable side bolsters. Tom

Response:

It is real! , I had some time off work recently and had to limit the amount of driving I was doing without breaks. I was experiencing tingling in the lower leg and a pain in the crease between my arse and my thigh. I was in the car for about 8 hours per day over about 3 consecutive days. I thought it was circulation and possibly DVT related like experienced on planes but the doctor said that it was almost certainly related to my back as the nerves (sciatic and leg) run down through the back. The jolting in the car doesn’t help. He also mentioned that it wasn’t necessarily due to the car, but possibly an existing condition aggrevated with the prolonged driving. Your body isn’t designed to be in that position for too long and you need a break to recover. Sometimes I can drive for a long time without too much problem and sometimes the pain comes back on shorter journeys. Having a BMW with a hard ride doesn’t help one little bit! But,if you are financially committed or in love with your BMW and changing car is out of the question, then all you can do is 1) Try adjusting the seat, 2) take adequate breaks, 3) keep fit generally. But changing car won’t always work as I had discomfort even further back in a 306 DTurbo with 14" alloys, again when I was doing too much driving without enough rest. MC

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a ‘98 M3 sedan (different seats than the 2 door), and the seat >comfort is horrible on 2 hour drives. Pain the lower back, and right shin >and the back of the upper right leg. No adjustments help. My wife gets >lower back pain as a passenger. Not sure what the problem is, but it is >real. > – Phil > Hi > I just got a 330Ci sport cab with all the trimmings. Very nice too. Last > weekend I went out in it with my wife for about two hours drive. The > following day I returned from the UK to Italy, where I work, and was > surprised to discover I could hardly walk, having partially lost motor > control over my left knee. I thought little of it until my wife phoned > and > told me she’d had the same problem with _both_ knees! > I’m wondering if this was caused by the seats in the car. These are the > electrically adjustable ones – anyone else had this problem? > Cheers > Geoff

Response:

>I have a ‘98 M3 sedan (different seats than the 2 door), and the seat >comfort is horrible on 2 hour drives. Pain the lower back, and right shin >and the back of the upper right leg. No adjustments help. My wife gets >lower back pain as a passenger. Not sure what the problem is, but it is >real.

The seats in my 323 (E46) are one of the few things I don’t like about the car. The seats in my previous Hondas (Prelude Si, CRX Si) were MUCH better-shaped.

Response:

>Ehhh, well I didn’t at least. I have a 328Ci with electric adjustable >seats and no problems with knees. I’m unsure how to link knee problems >to the chairs (unless you kept adjusting it back and forth banging your >knees into the dash ).

Do they tilt back? Maybe that’s cutting off the circulation to the lower legs? -Ted

Response:

<snipped description of knee problem> > I’m wondering if this was caused by the seats in the car. These are the > electrically adjustable ones – anyone else had this problem?

I dunno if thats what caused it for you, but I did have a problem like that once when I drove for +-18 hours with no stops except to fuel. I drove a golf 1, and when I finally stepped out of the car, half crazed with hunger and fatigue my knees rapidly responded "oh no you dont!". I now routinely drive two 6-hour-long trips a month, and find that my knees appreciate it more when the seat is at its highest position. YMMV. goose, the bee’s knees

Response:

I haven’t had a problem with my 325i, but my sister had a problem with her sciatica nerve when she first changed from her VW to a 320i. Didn’t think of the car untill the doctor asked if she had changed seats at work. Moved the seat around a bit and problem went away. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi >I just got a 330Ci sport cab with all the trimmings. Very nice too. Last >weekend I went out in it with my wife for about two hours drive. The >following day I returned from the UK to Italy, where I work, and was >surprised to discover I could hardly walk, having partially lost motor >control over my left knee. I thought little of it until my wife phoned and >told me she’d had the same problem with _both_ knees! >I’m wondering if this was caused by the seats in the car. These are the >electrically adjustable ones – anyone else had this problem? >Cheers >Geoff

Response:

> Hi > I just got a 330Ci sport cab with all the trimmings. Very nice too. Last > weekend I went out in it with my wife for about two hours drive. The > following day I returned from the UK to Italy, where I work, and was > surprised to discover I could hardly walk, having partially lost motor > control over my left knee. I thought little of it until my wife phoned and > told me she’d had the same problem with _both_ knees! > I’m wondering if this was caused by the seats in the car. These are the > electrically adjustable ones – anyone else had this problem?

The seat pan is adjustable in both height and tilt. I don’t know where it was set, but I’d try raising and tilting the seat pan towards the back at what seems a more natural feel. It may also help to recline the seat back a bit. I find that riding for an extended period of time with my knees too straight leaves them feeling sore for some time afterwards. Positioning the seat less upright and in a position where there’s a bit of bend at the knee eliminates that problem. — The instructions said to use Windows 98 or better, so I installed RedHat.

Response:

When I got my first BMW my left knee ached for quite some time but simply because the clutch was much heavier than in my previosu car. If I go skiing now, my right leg burns pretty quick but the left keeps goign all day

Response:

I have a ‘98 M3 sedan (different seats than the 2 door), and the seat comfort is horrible on 2 hour drives. Pain the lower back, and right shin and the back of the upper right leg. No adjustments help. My wife gets lower back pain as a passenger. Not sure what the problem is, but it is real. – Phil

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi > I just got a 330Ci sport cab with all the trimmings. Very nice too. Last > weekend I went out in it with my wife for about two hours drive. The > following day I returned from the UK to Italy, where I work, and was > surprised to discover I could hardly walk, having partially lost motor > control over my left knee. I thought little of it until my wife phoned and > told me she’d had the same problem with _both_ knees! > I’m wondering if this was caused by the seats in the car. These are the > electrically adjustable ones – anyone else had this problem? > Cheers > Geoff

Response:

Hi I just got a 330Ci sport cab with all the trimmings. Very nice too. Last weekend I went out in it with my wife for about two hours drive. The following day I returned from the UK to Italy, where I work, and was surprised to discover I could hardly walk, having partially lost motor control over my left knee. I thought little of it until my wife phoned and told me she’d had the same problem with _both_ knees! I’m wondering if this was caused by the seats in the car. These are the electrically adjustable ones – anyone else had this problem? Cheers Geoff

Response:

> Hi

[SNIP knee problem] > I’m wondering if this was caused by the seats in the car. These are the > electrically adjustable ones – anyone else had this problem?

Ehhh, well I didn’t at least. I have a 328Ci with electric adjustable seats and no problems with knees. I’m unsure how to link knee problems to the chairs (unless you kept adjusting it back and forth banging your knees into the dash ). Regards, — Arnold http://www.ligtvoet.org – Edmund Blackadder said : "I have a plan so cunning you could put a tail on it and call it a weasel!" Ask smart questions : http://www.catb.org/~esr/faqs/smart-questions.html

Response:

Do you and your wife engage in any kind of strenuous activity when you are home on leave? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi > I just got a 330Ci sport cab with all the trimmings. Very nice too. Last > weekend I went out in it with my wife for about two hours drive. The > following day I returned from the UK to Italy, where I work, and was > surprised to discover I could hardly walk, having partially lost motor > control over my left knee. I thought little of it until my wife phoned and > told me she’d had the same problem with _both_ knees! > I’m wondering if this was caused by the seats in the car. These are the > electrically adjustable ones – anyone else had this problem? > Cheers > Geoff

Response:

Category Categories: Electric Window Part | No Comments »

330xi Info

Question:

We have had 4wd drive vehicles for the past 30 years and are now considering changing from a suv to an awd as we don’t do any more four wheeling and have moved to an area with less snow. I am considering buying a 330xi and I would like to hear from owners about how they like this vehicle. Does it perform well in awd? Any major problems or maintenance headaches? Would you buy another? And anything else of interest I would appreciate knowing before I take the plunge. Thanks for any responses, Frank

Response:

> We have had 4wd drive vehicles for the past 30 years and are now > considering changing from a suv to an awd as we don’t do any more four > wheeling and have moved to an area with less snow. > I am considering buying a 330xi and I would like to hear from owners > about how they like this vehicle. Does it perform well in awd? Any > major problems or maintenance headaches? Would you buy another? And > anything else of interest I would appreciate knowing before I take the > plunge.

I’m sure that you’ve googled this group for previous responses; quite a few, and also many about snow vs. all-season vs. summer tires. I’ve got almost 60K miles on my ‘01 330xi – three winters. I ski (instruct) about 90 days a year – so I’ve probably had it in more snow/ice than even someone from Buffalo. Only problems I’ve had with it were covered by the warranty, and were exclusively non-drive-train issues with radio, seats, etc. I’ve only had it stuck once – high-centered on melting compacted snow. I get 28-30mpg highway, normally around 24.5 city/highway. It uses about 1 quart oil in 5K miles. It’s quite powerful and fast (not in the league with the NSX it replaced!), almost as fast as my wife’s Boxster. Be sure to get the heated seats. 1) It comes with all-seasons (mine are Conti Sport Contact), which give it adequate performance in snow. 2) Last winter, I put on a set of 4 Michelin Pilot Alpine tires. The difference between snow and all-season tires is as great as the difference between summer and all-season tires. I went from being able to spin 2-3 tires on snow to not being able to do so (with TCS off.) 3) Putting on a set of summer tires (I use a set of 325i 8×17" rims and 225/45R17 Michelin Pilot MXM) is the best way to add handling performance on dry roads – significantly better than the standard 205/50R17 all-seasons. 4) The car is *always* in AWD – I’m sure that you know that, although your question implied otherwise. 5) The new models with XDrive are likely to be better (due to the locking center diff) than mine, in the snow. 6) My wife almost bought an X3 (identical mechanicals, more space), but decided to cheap it out with a Toyota Highlander instead. The main deciding factor was that she hated the steering (speed-sensitive). Not sure if it’s now standard on 330xi. BTW, if you want to see flamewars, just ask Audi, bmw and Subaru groups which system is better. The answer is: it doesn’t matter, they’re all good. Floyd (in Seattle)

Response:

Thanks for the in-depth reply and I did know some of the stuff you mentioned but I just wanted to feel better before buying. I didn’t expect quite that much gas mileage as my wife’s BMW 530i gets 23-24 but I expect it is heavier than the 330. Again thanks for the help, Frank

Response:

> Thanks for the in-depth reply and I did know some of the stuff you > mentioned but I just wanted to feel better before buying. I didn’t > expect quite that much gas mileage as my wife’s BMW 530i gets 23-24 but > I expect it is heavier than the 330.

Actually, the 330xi is about the same weight, and generally gets about 1-2mpg less than a similar 530i (mine is a 5 speed). The 330xi has a higher numerical final drive to keep the performance about the same as a 330i. Floyd

Response:

I have an 02 330xi with currently about 53k miles on it. Absolutely wonderful car. Quite fast. Goes well in the snow, never been stuck (knock on wood). Great track car in the rain. Beats the crap out of everything with 2-wheel drive when it’s wet. Great track car in the dry, too….lots of fun. I thought about getting something else from BMW, but there is nothing I could get that would be better than what I already have. If they had a 4-door M3xi I’d jump on it….but they don’t (yet). Buy one, they’re a hoot. What’s the BMW advertisement?……world’s fastest snowplow…..believe it. Tom Allen St. Louis http://www.allencg.com/bmw.htm

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > We have had 4wd drive vehicles for the past 30 years and are now > > considering changing from a suv to an awd as we don’t do any more four > > wheeling and have moved to an area with less snow. > > I am considering buying a 330xi and I would like to hear from owners > > about how they like this vehicle. Does it perform well in awd? Any > > major problems or maintenance headaches? Would you buy another? And > > anything else of interest I would appreciate knowing before I take the > > plunge. > I’m sure that you’ve googled this group for previous responses; quite a few, > and also many about snow vs. all-season vs. summer tires. > I’ve got almost 60K miles on my ‘01 330xi – three winters. I ski (instruct) > about 90 days a year – so I’ve probably had it in more snow/ice than even > someone from Buffalo. Only problems I’ve had with it were covered by > the warranty, and were exclusively non-drive-train issues with radio, > seats, etc. > I’ve only had it stuck once – high-centered on melting compacted snow. > I get 28-30mpg highway, normally around 24.5 city/highway. It uses about > 1 quart oil in 5K miles. It’s quite powerful and fast (not in the league > with > the NSX it replaced!), almost as fast as my wife’s Boxster. Be sure to get > the heated seats. > 1) It comes with all-seasons (mine are Conti Sport Contact), which give > it adequate performance in snow. > 2) Last winter, I put on a set of 4 Michelin Pilot Alpine tires. The > difference > between snow and all-season tires is as great as the difference between > summer and all-season tires. I went from being able to spin 2-3 tires on > snow to not being able to do so (with TCS off.) > 3) Putting on a set of summer tires (I use a set of 325i 8×17" rims and > 225/45R17 Michelin Pilot MXM) is the best way to add handling performance > on dry roads – significantly better than the standard 205/50R17 all-seasons. > 4) The car is *always* in AWD – I’m sure that you know that, although > your question implied otherwise. > 5) The new models with XDrive are likely to be better (due to the locking > center diff) than mine, in the snow. > 6) My wife almost bought an X3 (identical mechanicals, more space), > but decided to cheap it out with a Toyota Highlander instead. The main > deciding factor was that she hated the steering (speed-sensitive). Not > sure if it’s now standard on 330xi. > BTW, if you want to see flamewars, just ask Audi, bmw and Subaru > groups which system is better. The answer is: it doesn’t matter, > they’re all good. > Floyd (in Seattle) > Thanks for the in-depth reply and I did know some of the stuff you > mentioned but I just wanted to feel better before buying. I didn’t > expect quite that much gas mileage as my wife’s BMW 530i gets 23-24 but > I expect it is heavier than the 330. > Again thanks for the help, > Frank

Here’s another Seattle area 330xi owner chiming in. Mine’s a 2002 model year with about 36K miles. No problems at all. I checked the computer and it shows 23.9mpg. I don’t think I’ve ever reset it. For comparison, my 2001 540i 6-speed show 22mpg. The NAV system is useful but is really bad compared to newer systems on Lexus, etc. I haven’t had it in snow very much but I had no problems at all with the little there was even with the original Conti all seasons.

Response:

Frank…. Here are a couple of other thoughts regarding the 330xi….. I drive rather aggressively and have somewhat of a lead foot…my gas mileage is usually around 18 to 20 mpg in normal driving and 24 on long highway trips….but I also got 29 mpg on a less aggressive highway trip. My last car was an SUV and I was used to 10-11 mpg, so 18 is still a major improvement. The AWD on wet roads is outstanding. Don’t let anyone try to convince you that snow tires on a 2wd car will give you similar traction in the snow….not a chance. You’re used to an awd or 4wd car, so you will probably agree 100%…..it’s true on almost any car. But don’t forget it isn’t a 4wd pickup or an Excursion with 4 feet of ground clearance…..in a snow storm you’re going to start dragging ass after 6 or 8 inches accumulate. The performance of the xi is excellent. Not as good as the 330i (2wd), but still excellent. If that extra half second going from 0 to 60 makes a big difference to you, get the 330i. But for me the xi is plenty fast. I even have an automatic which takes away more performance. But compared to my old Ford Expedition (or anything else I’ve ever owned for that matter)…..this thing is a rocket. I, too, have had something with 4wd or awd for the past 30 years which is why I got the xi. I wanted a BMW, didn’t want a SUV and finally decided on the xi…..and am very glad I did. I have had very few maintenance problems. A tough electrical problem at 5,000 miles….turned out to be a crimped spark plug wire….no problems since. I’ve had two torn cv’s on the front wheels that caused grease to splatter around on the wheels. But I think I caused them myself on an autocross day….replaced under warranty. Been through lots of tires….in 53k miles I’m on my 4th set…..track days and aggressive driving eat up tires on this car. But I’m the cause of it, not the car’s fault. If you buy sticky high performance tires, the wear very quickly, but they’re a hoot to drive on. I got all three packages…sport, premium and cold weather….very glad I got all three. Best part of the sport package are the seats….love them. Premium package, great leather, gotta have a moonroof, tilt down right side mirror is great, light sensing rear view mirror is great, rain sensing wipers are wonderful. Since I ended up putting so many miles on this car (it has seen its share of these united states), I wish I had purchased the navigation system. I had no idea that I would take this car where I have, so far away from home, so often. I’ve been totally lost a few times. Never thought I’d ever use the fold down rear seats, but I’m amazed at the number of times they have been very helpful….glad I have them. I like the xenon’s. Very used to them now. When I drive someone else’s car, I can’t stand their headlights, seem very yellow and dim. The car after 53k miles is still very tight….no rattles….no shakes….no noises…..none!….still very quiet when the windows are up…..I commented to a friend just the other day at how this car maintains it’s "solidness" after 2.5 years of ownership and 53,000 miles. They’re built to last. It’s my favorite toy. Tom Allen St. Louis

Response:

2001 330xi Summer performance rubber/winter snows Ottawa, Canada never has nad any problems great drive all year round you’ll never regret it first car that i have purchased at the end of a lease before i liked it so much have had 6 bmw over the last 20 years currently track a ‘90 325i tried other but the drive never compares

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have had 4wd drive vehicles for the past 30 years and are now > considering changing from a suv to an awd as we don’t do any more four > wheeling and have moved to an area with less snow. > I am considering buying a 330xi and I would like to hear from owners > about how they like this vehicle. Does it perform well in awd? Any > major problems or maintenance headaches? Would you buy another? And > anything else of interest I would appreciate knowing before I take the > plunge. > Thanks for any responses, > Frank > Frank…. > Here are a couple of other thoughts regarding the 330xi….. > I drive rather aggressively and have somewhat of a lead foot…my gas > mileage is usually around 18 to 20 mpg in normal driving and 24 on long > highway trips….but I also got 29 mpg on a less aggressive highway trip. > My last car was an SUV and I was used to 10-11 mpg, so 18 is still a major > improvement. > The AWD on wet roads is outstanding. Don’t let anyone try to convince you > that snow tires on a 2wd car will give you similar traction in the > snow….not a chance. You’re used to an awd or 4wd car, so you will > probably agree 100%…..it’s true on almost any car. But don’t forget it > isn’t a 4wd pickup or an Excursion with 4 feet of ground clearance…..in > a snow storm you’re going to start dragging ass after 6 or 8 inches > accumulate. > The performance of the xi is excellent. Not as good as the 330i (2wd), > but still excellent. If that extra half second going from 0 to 60 makes a > big difference to you, get the 330i. But for me the xi is plenty fast. I > even have an automatic which takes away more performance. But compared to > my old Ford Expedition (or anything else I’ve ever owned for that > matter)…..this thing is a rocket. > I, too, have had something with 4wd or awd for the past 30 years which is > why I got the xi. I wanted a BMW, didn’t want a SUV and finally decided > on the xi…..and am very glad I did. > I have had very few maintenance problems. A tough electrical problem at > 5,000 miles….turned out to be a crimped spark plug wire….no problems > since. I’ve had two torn cv’s on the front wheels that caused grease to > splatter around on the wheels. But I think I caused them myself on an > autocross day….replaced under warranty. > Been through lots of tires….in 53k miles I’m on my 4th set…..track > days and aggressive driving eat up tires on this car. But I’m the cause > of it, not the car’s fault. If you buy sticky high performance tires, the > wear very quickly, but they’re a hoot to drive on. > I got all three packages…sport, premium and cold weather….very glad I > got all three. Best part of the sport package are the seats….love them. > Premium package, great leather, gotta have a moonroof, tilt down right > side mirror is great, light sensing rear view mirror is great, rain > sensing wipers are wonderful. Since I ended up putting so many miles on > this car (it has seen its share of these united states), I wish I had > purchased the navigation system. I had no idea that I would take this car > where I have, so far away from home, so often. I’ve been totally lost a > few times. Never thought I’d ever use the fold down rear seats, but I’m > amazed at the number of times they have been very helpful….glad I have > them. > I like the xenon’s. Very used to them now. When I drive someone else’s > car, I can’t stand their headlights, seem very yellow and dim. > The car after 53k miles is still very tight….no rattles….no > shakes….no noises…..none!….still very quiet when the windows are > up…..I commented to a friend just the other day at how this car > maintains it’s "solidness" after 2.5 years of ownership and 53,000 miles. > They’re built to last. > It’s my favorite toy. > Tom Allen > St. Louis

Response:

> 5) The new models with XDrive are likely to be better (due to the locking > center diff) than mine, in the snow.

What new models are you talking about that have XDrive? Just the X3 and X5 or is it the new 3 series too?

Response:

>> 5) The new models with XDrive are likely to be better (due to the > locking > center diff) than mine, in the snow. > What new models are you talking about that have XDrive? Just the X3 and X5 > or is it the new 3 series too?

I may have mis-construed some comments about the 2006 3-series to apply to current models – I can’t find anything that says 2005 models have xDrive. Floyd

Response:

I have a 2005 330xi on order with every available option except for the sport package (didn’t want that because it makes the ride too stiff). Right now, my car is at the final preparation center before the dealer; I’m hoping to get it next week. What sort of sensation do you get when the AWD compensates for a slipping wheel? My understanding is that it applies selective breaking to the slipping wheel to stop its spinning. Is it a pulsing sensation like antilock break action, or is more of smooth breaking? For example, let’s say you are climbing a snow/ice covered hill and start to get some slipping, what does the corrective action feel like? Also are you aware of any situations where dynamic stability control has kicked in? If so, what’s that like? Phil

Response:

>I have a 2005 330xi on order with every available option except for the >sport > package (didn’t want that because it makes the ride too stiff). Right now, > my > car is at the final preparation center before the dealer; I’m hoping to > get it > next week.

BAD decision not to get the sport package: the AWD sport package does not include the sport suspension. All AWD 325/330xi have unique suspensions that ride about 3/4" higher than the non-sport package 3-series. IMO, the sport seats is worth the price. > What sort of sensation do you get when the AWD compensates for a slipping > wheel? My understanding is that it applies selective breaking to the > slipping > wheel to stop its spinning. Is it a pulsing sensation like antilock break > action, or is more of smooth breaking? For example, let’s say you are > climbing > a snow/ice covered hill and start to get some slipping, what does the > corrective action feel like?

It’s mostly pulsing. However, the effect is very smooth. I once decided I wanted to enter a snowy road ahead of a big line of cars. I left DSC/ASC/ADB on, and just hammered the throttle and shifted at the redline. Yeah, there was slipping, yeah there was ADB pulsing various wheels as they slipped, but it was straight ahead acceleration barely slower than on a dry surface. In low-traction conditions, you can feel the car begin to slew as one or more wheels slip, then you hear (and slightly feel) the ADB/DSC pulse one or more wheels (one to stop the slipping and one to correct the yaw). You have to be careful not to lose momentum – that’s what the DSC off button is for. > Also are you aware of any situations where dynamic stability control has > kicked > in? If so, what’s that like?

There’s one particular corner – off-camber downhill right-hander with a road imperfection/drop-off – that I play on all the time. Basically, the DSC pulses the left rear/front right to apply yaw to correct the clockwise rotation induced, and away I go. Floyd

Response:

> BAD decision not to get the sport package: the AWD sport package does not > include the sport suspension. All AWD 325/330xi have unique suspensions > that ride about 3/4" higher than the non-sport package 3-series. IMO, the > sport seats is worth the price.

I test drove cars with and without the sport package. The ride with the sport package was significantly stiffer and less comfortable for normal driving. I didn’t find any significant comfort advantage to the sport seats. > It’s mostly pulsing. However, the effect is very smooth. I once decided I > wanted to enter a snowy road ahead of a big line of cars. I left > DSC/ASC/ADB > on, and just hammered the throttle and shifted at the redline. Yeah, there > was slipping, yeah there was ADB pulsing various wheels as they slipped, > but it was straight ahead acceleration barely slower than on a dry surface.

OK, that’s good to hear. > There’s one particular corner – off-camber downhill right-hander with a road > imperfection/drop-off – that I play on all the time. Basically, the DSC > pulses > the left rear/front right to apply yaw to correct the clockwise rotation > induced, > and away I go.

OK. Excellent. I can hardly wait to get the car and then find some slippery spot. Phil

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have had 4wd drive vehicles for the past 30 years and are now > considering changing from a suv to an awd as we don’t do any more four > wheeling and have moved to an area with less snow. > I am considering buying a 330xi and I would like to hear from owners > about how they like this vehicle. Does it perform well in awd? Any > major problems or maintenance headaches? Would you buy another? And > anything else of interest I would appreciate knowing before I take the > plunge. > Thanks for any responses, > Frank > Frank…. > Here are a couple of other thoughts regarding the 330xi….. > I drive rather aggressively and have somewhat of a lead > foot…my gas mileage is usually around 18 to 20 mpg in > normal driving and 24 on long highway trips….but I also > got 29 mpg on a less aggressive highway trip. My last car > was an SUV and I was used to 10-11 mpg, so 18 is still a > major improvement. > The AWD on wet roads is outstanding. Don’t let anyone try > to convince you that snow tires on a 2wd car will give you > similar traction in the snow….not a chance. You’re used > to an awd or 4wd car, so you will probably agree > 100%…..it’s true on almost any car. But don’t forget it > isn’t a 4wd pickup or an Excursion with 4 feet of ground > clearance…..in a snow storm you’re going to start dragging > ass after 6 or 8 inches accumulate. > The performance of the xi is excellent. Not as good as the > 330i (2wd), but still excellent. If that extra half second > going from 0 to 60 makes a big difference to you, get the > 330i. But for me the xi is plenty fast. I even have an > automatic which takes away more performance. But compared > to my old Ford Expedition (or anything else I’ve ever owned > for that matter)…..this thing is a rocket. > I, too, have had something with 4wd or awd for the past 30 > years which is why I got the xi. I wanted a BMW, didn’t > want a SUV and finally decided on the xi…..and am very > glad I did. > I have had very few maintenance problems. A tough > electrical problem at 5,000 miles….turned out to be a > crimped spark plug wire….no problems since. I’ve had two > torn cv’s on the front wheels that caused grease to splatter > around on the wheels. But I think I caused them myself on > an autocross day….replaced under warranty. > Been through lots of tires….in 53k miles I’m on my 4th > set…..track days and aggressive driving eat up tires on > this car. But I’m the cause of it, not the car’s fault. If > you buy sticky high performance tires, the wear very > quickly, but they’re a hoot to drive on. > I got all three packages…sport, premium and cold > weather….very glad I got all three. Best part of the > sport package are the seats….love them. Premium package, > great leather, gotta have a moonroof, tilt down right side > mirror is great, light sensing rear view mirror is great, > rain sensing wipers are wonderful. Since I ended up putting > so many miles on this car (it has seen its share of these > united states), I wish I had purchased the navigation > system. I had no idea that I would take this car where I > have, so far away from home, so often. I’ve been totally > lost a few times. Never thought I’d ever use the fold down > rear seats, but I’m amazed at the number of times they have > been very helpful….glad I have them. > I like the xenon’s. Very used to them now. When I drive > someone else’s car, I can’t stand their headlights, seem > very yellow and dim. > The car after 53k miles is still very tight….no > rattles….no shakes….no noises…..none!….still very > quiet when the windows are up…..I commented to a friend > just the other day at how this car maintains it’s > "solidness" after 2.5 years of ownership and 53,000 miles. > They’re built to last. > It’s my favorite toy. > Tom Allen > St. Louis

Tom, Thanks to you and the rest for your responses. I was pretty much sold before but now for sure. My wife has a 2003 530i which we both like very much and has been almost trouble free. We have an issue with the driver’s seat memory which sometimes returns to a different position for no reason – after locking, going in a store, coming back and unlocking with the same key. Sure is wierd but we are waiting for the next service to get it fixed. I was somewhat reluctant to buy the 2003 as we had a 1977 530i that we bought new for about $13K and it was bad news – really a piece of junk. We finally traded it in on a Honda Accord and were actually very glad we did. But this one is good and we are very happy with it. Hope we do as well with the 330xi. Thanks again, Frank

Response:

Category Categories: Electric Window Part | No Comments »

1996 Odyssey flasher relay problem?

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ve recently had both my daytime running lights (Canadian vehicle) > and low-beam headlights repaired in quick succession at my local Honda > dealership (both were wiring/relay issues). The lights were all > working and now our family was ready to take the van on a trip to New > York State! When we got about as far from home as we were going > (Ithaca, New York), the turn signals and hazard lights decided to quit > working. I was able to get on the Internet at our hotel that evening > and figure out where the flasher relay was located. The next morning, > I found that by pushing up hard with my fingers on the middle of the > flasher relay, I could get the hazards and turn signals to work. My > question is, is this for sure a problem with the relay itself, or > might it be a problem with the connector or ground wire, etc.? I’m > very suspicious that all of the problems mentioned might be related > (i.e., there is some other underlying electrical problem). Anyone have > an answer for this one?

BJ, there are two identical-sized relays behind your dash. The one with about 13 wires in it’s plug is the DRL relay. With your head resting on the brake pedal, look straight up and you’ll see them side by side. (skip this for now, doesn’t add up to what the schematis shows..) If you’re from Eastern Canada, grounding problems would be a good place to start, but the DRL problems you’ve had are pretty typical of ‘95, ‘96, ‘97 Ody. Have you removed that relay , popped it open to see if the solder joints are melted / pitted? The diagram I have for the turn signals / hazard lights is soooo simple, but you may find corrosion or a bad solder joint where the ‘boys’ were playing around with your signal lever / relay. They may have had the flasher in and out so many times the lugs are spread apart and won’t connect unless you push in hard. Don’t bend the lugs sideways . .squeeze the female lugs shut, the way they came from the factory. Let us know when you get back from your holiday… ‘Curly’

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve recently had both my daytime running lights (Canadian vehicle) > and low-beam headlights repaired in quick succession at my local Honda > dealership (both were wiring/relay issues). The lights were all > working and now our family was ready to take the van on a trip to New > York State! When we got about as far from home as we were going > (Ithaca, New York), the turn signals and hazard lights decided to quit > working. I was able to get on the Internet at our hotel that evening > and figure out where the flasher relay was located. The next morning, > I found that by pushing up hard with my fingers on the middle of the > flasher relay, I could get the hazards and turn signals to work. My > question is, is this for sure a problem with the relay itself, or > might it be a problem with the connector or ground wire, etc.? I’m > very suspicious that all of the problems mentioned might be related > (i.e., there is some other underlying electrical problem). Anyone have > an answer for this one? > BJ, there are two identical-sized relays behind your dash. The one with > about 13 wires in it’s plug is the DRL relay. With your head resting on > the brake pedal, look straight up and you’ll see them side by side. > (skip this for now, doesn’t add up to what the schematis shows..) > If you’re from Eastern Canada, grounding problems would be a good place > to start, but the DRL problems you’ve had are pretty typical of ‘95, > ‘96, ‘97 Ody. Have you removed that relay , popped it open to see if the > solder joints are melted / pitted? The diagram I have for the turn > signals / hazard lights is soooo simple, but you may find corrosion or a > bad solder joint where the ‘boys’ were playing around with your signal > lever / relay. They may have had the flasher in and out so many times > the lugs are spread apart and won’t connect unless you push in hard. > Don’t bend the lugs sideways . .squeeze the female lugs shut, the way > they came from the factory. > Let us know when you get back from your holiday… > ‘Curly’

Curly, thanks for your quick reply. I’ve already paid over $300 (Canadian) for a new DRL relay + labour…they fixed the low-beam problem at no EXTRA charge a week later as part of the job. It’s pretty suspicious that this flasher relay problem has now occurred, so I’m going to make it clear that I don’t plan on paying more money to get it fixed unless they can prove that it’s unrelated to their previous work. I tried to remove the flasher relay myself to take a look at it but it’s not something I’ve done before, and it didn’t seem to want to come out easily. I didn’t want to break off any clips, etc., that hold it in place. How do I remove the flasher relay? I made it home without any turn signals, mainly by avoiding surface streets, getting way in front of other expressway traffic before changing lanes, and occasionally sticking my arm out the window. I don’t recommend this method to others. BJ

Response:

I’ve recently had both my daytime running lights (Canadian vehicle) and low-beam headlights repaired in quick succession at my local Honda dealership (both were wiring/relay issues). The lights were all working and now our family was ready to take the van on a trip to New York State! When we got about as far from home as we were going (Ithaca, New York), the turn signals and hazard lights decided to quit working. I was able to get on the Internet at our hotel that evening and figure out where the flasher relay was located. The next morning, I found that by pushing up hard with my fingers on the middle of the flasher relay, I could get the hazards and turn signals to work. My question is, is this for sure a problem with the relay itself, or might it be a problem with the connector or ground wire, etc.? I’m very suspicious that all of the problems mentioned might be related (i.e., there is some other underlying electrical problem). Anyone have an answer for this one?

Response:

Category Categories: Electric Window Part | No Comments »

Stupid question? Heat between dbl pane glass?

Question:

Hi all, 1. I was wondering if any benefit could be had if you heated between double pane glass( when needed say at night) with a small nichrom wire? Maybe 20 watts? or so? Would it help the r-value any? if so what kind of btu at say 5500 degree days? Or would it be a waste of energy?. What would the effective r value through it? 2. Also wondering say a custom made window with a 4" space sides and bottom black, 1 gallon of water anti freeze mix at the bottom(no air exchanges of course) 2"or so what would be the btu loss through it ? (window say 3 sq feetx4" thick for 1 cubic foot inside?) Looking for formula and ideas Thanks in advance ! Ed

Response:

> Hi all, > 1. I was wondering if any benefit could be had if you heated between double > pane glass( when needed say at night) with a small nichrom wire? Maybe 20 > watts? or so? > Would it help the r-value any? if so what kind of btu at say 5500 degree days? > Or would it be a waste of energy?. What would the effective r value through it?

It would be a waste of energy. The laws of thermodynamic say you want the heat where you actually want to stay warm. The heat generated by the nichrome wire would more quickly be lost to the outside environment than if it were placed fully inside your dwelling. > 2. Also wondering say a custom made window with a 4" space sides and bottom > black, 1 gallon of water anti freeze mix at the bottom(no air exchanges of > course) > 2"or so what would be the btu loss through it ? (window say 3 sq feetx4" thick > for 1 cubic foot inside?) > Looking for formula and ideas > Thanks in advance !

Also not a good idea. A vacuum has zero conductivity. Air has a little more. Liquids have a lot more. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Ed

Response:

>…A vacuum has zero conductivity.

Not really. The radiation conductance is about R1 at 70 F, with ordinary materials. Linearized, Gr = 4sT^3, where s is the Stefan-Boltzman constant and T is the absolute mean temp. For instance, 70 F indoors and 30 F outdoors makes T = 460+50 = 510 R, so Gr = 4×0.1714×10^-8×510^3 = 0.91 Btu/h-F-ft^2. Nick

Response:

>…A vacuum has zero conductivity. > Not really. The radiation conductance is about R1 at 70 F, > with ordinary materials. Linearized, Gr = 4sT^3, where s is > the Stefan-Boltzman constant and T is the absolute mean temp. > For instance, 70 F indoors and 30 F outdoors makes T = 460+50 > = 510 R, so Gr = 4×0.1714×10^-8×510^3 = 0.91 Btu/h-F-ft^2. > Nick

Absolutely true. I was referring to conductivity through thermal diffusion.

Response:

I guess what i’m really looking for is the btu through a window that is heated on its interior. Would’nt it block the interior btu’s through it? While loosing a smaller amount?. One configuration would be with a small (hopefully) electric heater. The other would be passive with black surfaces(4"?) on the bottom and sides with say 1 gallon of water/antifreeze under the bottom black surface. ? If interior temp and inner side of unit is 70f then no btu loss right? Looking forward to the classic btu formulas of this group Thanks in advance!!!!! Ed – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >1. I was wondering if any benefit could be had if you heated between double >pane glass( when needed say at night) with a small nichrom wire? Maybe 20 >watts? or so? >Would it help the r-value any? if so what kind of btu at say 5500 degree >days? >Or would it be a waste of energy?. What would the effective r value through >it? >2. Also wondering say a custom made window with a 4" space sides and bottom >black, 1 gallon of water anti freeze mix at the bottom(no air exchanges of >course) >2"or so what would be the btu loss through it ? (window say 3 sq feetx4" >thick >for 1 cubic foot inside?) >Looking for formula and ideas >Thanks in advance ! >Ed

Response:

> I guess what i’m really looking for is the btu through a window that is heated > on its interior. Would’nt it block the interior btu’s > through it? While loosing a smaller amount?.

Just putting a heater inside the window won’t block the heat loss through the window. It just introduces another source of heat. You would do better to try to make the window less able to let heat flow through it. One method is to add insulation in the form of a thermal drape or insulation panels in the form of shutters. Another method would be to add something that reflects IR light such as aluminum foil. Many thermal drapes combine the two ideas and have an insulating layer and reflective layer(s). Anthony

Response:

But if the inside of the glass is silvered you cut the radiation figure dramatically. I don’t know if there is any practical way to put a partial silvering (or aluminizing) on the inside glass face and remove it when you want to see out more clearly. Sounds something like an internal window shade.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->…A vacuum has zero conductivity. > Not really. The radiation conductance is about R1 at 70 F, > with ordinary materials. Linearized, Gr = 4sT^3, where s is > the Stefan-Boltzman constant and T is the absolute mean temp. > For instance, 70 F indoors and 30 F outdoors makes T = 460+50 > = 510 R, so Gr = 4×0.1714×10^-8×510^3 = 0.91 Btu/h-F-ft^2. > Nick

Response:

If a window (in this case really a clear passive greenhouse) is say 70f and the house temp is 70f then what heat loss? 70F through 70F ? isnt it 0 heat loss/transfer? How about 1"pvc( black) tubing as integral thermal store/black serface/frame itself? Looking for the btus calculations from the interior of the house through the (greenhouse) "window" to the exterior say 5500 hdd? hmmmm anyone? (assuming a square foot of btu collecting surface IN the"window")? Tia Ed – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I guess what i’m really looking for is the btu through a window that is >heated > on its interior. Would’nt it block the interior btu’s > through it? While loosing a smaller amount?. >Just putting a heater inside the window won’t block the heat loss >through the window. It just introduces another source of heat. >You would do better to try to make the window less able to let >heat flow through it. One method is to add insulation in the >form of a thermal drape or insulation panels in the form of >shutters. Another method would be to add something that reflects >IR light such as aluminum foil. Many thermal drapes combine >the two ideas and have an insulating layer and reflective >layer(s). >Anthony

Response:

>2. Also wondering say a custom made window with a 4" space sides and bottom >black, 1 gallon of water anti freeze mix at the bottom(no air exchanges of >course) >2"or so what would be the btu loss through it ? (window say 3 sq feetx4" thick >for 1 cubic foot inside?)

The hippies made "bead walls" during the 70s … using a vaccuum cleaner or somesuch to fill up / remove the space between the glass with styrofoam beads. I’ve never seen one, but they sound kind of fun as long as all the beads will suck out when desired.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->2. Also wondering say a custom made window with a 4" space sides and bottom >black, 1 gallon of water anti freeze mix at the bottom(no air exchanges of >course) >2"or so what would be the btu loss through it ? (window say 3 sq feetx4" >thick >for 1 cubic foot inside?) > The hippies made "bead walls" during the 70s … using a vaccuum cleaner > or somesuch to fill up / remove the space between the glass with > styrofoam beads. I’ve never seen one, but they sound kind of fun as long > as all the beads will suck out when desired.

try zomeworks.com. I think they still have them there

Response:

says… > You would do better to try to make the window less able to let > heat flow through it. One method is to add insulation in the > form of a thermal drape or insulation panels in the form of > shutters. Another method would be to add something that reflects > IR light such as aluminum foil. Many thermal drapes combine > the two ideas and have an insulating layer and reflective > layer(s).

If one is on a low budget, perhaps it would help to just hang a cheap, camping-type "space blanket" over the inside of the regular curtains/drapes with the shiny side facing in(?) — Guide To DIY Living http://www.self-reliance.co.nz (Work in progress)

Response:

BZZZT. Nice start, but the heat lost by radiation is: Q = sigma * A * epsilon (T1^4 - T2^4) The fourth power, not third. And for your example, Q = 0.1714e-8 * A * emissivity * ((460+70)^4 – (460+30)^4) (if one object is completely enclosed in the second, otherwise you must include a modulus to account for the geometry) So for ‘black’ bodies, the radiant heat transfer would be 36.4 BTU/hr-ft^2 You cannot take the delta temperature and add 460 to convert it to Rankine. The difference between 70 F and 30 F is 50 F and is also equal to 50 R. (the ‘+460′ on each cancel out). daestrom

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If a window (in this case really a clear passive greenhouse) is say 70f and > the house temp is 70f then what heat loss? > 70F through 70F ? isnt it 0 heat loss/transfer? > How about 1"pvc( black) tubing as integral thermal store/black serface/frame > itself? > Looking for the btus calculations from the interior of the house through the > (greenhouse) "window" to the exterior say 5500 hdd? hmmmm anyone? > (assuming a square foot of btu collecting surface IN the"window")?

Well, you have part of it right. If the space between the two pieces of glass is at the same temperature as the inside, there will not be any temperature difference across the inside pane, so the heat loss from the room through that pane will be zero. But, you will have raised the temperature drop across the outside pane. So, it will take quite a bit of energy from your heater to maintain the temperature in the space between the panes. More than you will save across the inside pane. The energy will just have to come from your ‘heater’ between the panes instead of from the room. Now, if the energy used to heat between the panes is cheaper/free (such as sunshine on some dark webbing or sun clothe), than what you use to heat the home, you win. If you pay more for the energy used between the panes than what you pay for general heating (say, grid electric vs. NG), then you lose. Does this help? daestrom

Response:

>> The radiation conductance is about R1 at 70 F, with ordinary materials. > Linearized, Gr = 4sT^3, where s is the Stefan-Boltzman constant and T > is the absolute mean temp. For instance, 70 F indoors and 30 F outdoors > makes T = 460+50 = 510 R, so Gr = 4×0.1714×10^-8×510^3 = 0.91 Btu/h-F-ft^2. >BZZZT. Nice start, but the heat lost by radiation is: >Q = sigma * A * epsilon (T1^4 - T2^4) >The fourth power, not third.

Agreed. >And for your example, >Q = 0.1714e-8 * A * emissivity * ((460+70)^4 – (460+30)^4) >(if one object is completely enclosed in the second, otherwise you must >include a modulus to account for the geometry) >So for ‘black’ bodies, the radiant heat transfer would be 36.4 BTU/hr-ft^2

Would that be different from 0.91(70-30) = 36.4 Btu/h-ft^2? You might read more carefully. Nick

Response:

> I guess what i’m really looking for is the btu through a window that is heated > on its interior. Would’nt it block the interior btu’s > through it?

yes, if the window gap is the same temp as the room, there will be no heat flow across the interior pane of glass. > While loosing a smaller amount?.

Since the window gap is now at a higher temp than before, the heat loss to outside will obviously be greater. Regards, NT

Response:

Yup that helps, So, no loss on one side of the thicker window, but loss on the cold side, How much water,thermal store to have this window/sunspace keep just itself warm till the next sunny day (free) solar charge? If it can keep itself heated and let solar gain through it(cuase then frame surfaces collect the heat not a screen) then could you add the gain through it + the btu loss prevented to say the window gains both ? If a square foot stops say 100 btus of its own isolated doings then is its R value = R 100? Nice window. Tia Ed – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If a window (in this case really a clear passive greenhouse) is say 70f >and > the house temp is 70f then what heat loss? > 70F through 70F ? isnt it 0 heat loss/transfer? > How about 1"pvc( black) tubing as integral thermal store/black >serface/frame > itself? > Looking for the btus calculations from the interior of the house through >the > (greenhouse) "window" to the exterior say 5500 hdd? hmmmm anyone? > (assuming a square foot of btu collecting surface IN the"window")? >Well, you have part of it right. If the space between the two pieces of >glass is at the same temperature as the inside, there will not be any >temperature difference across the inside pane, so the heat loss from the >room through that pane will be zero. But, you will have raised the >temperature drop across the outside pane. So, it will take quite a bit of >energy from your heater to maintain the temperature in the space between the >panes. More than you will save across the inside pane. The energy will >just have to come from your ‘heater’ between the panes instead of from the >room. >Now, if the energy used to heat between the panes is cheaper/free (such as >sunshine on some dark webbing or sun clothe), than what you use to heat the >home, you win. If you pay more for the energy used between the panes than >what you pay for general heating (say, grid electric vs. NG), then you lose. >Does this help? >daestrom

Response:

> Now, if the energy used to heat between the panes is cheaper/free (such as > sunshine on some dark webbing or sun clothe), than what you use to heat the > home, you win.

If you let that heat shine straight into the room like normal you’d lose less of it. So no win. Regards, NT

Response:

> Hi all, > 1. I was wondering if any benefit could be had if you heated between double > pane glass( when needed say at night) with a small nichrom wire? Maybe 20 > watts? or so?

Waste of energy, heat would go outside. > Would it help the r-value any?

I would think it would actually harm the R-value, as metal conducts heat quite well. I’ve heard they put argon gas in double pane windows and wonder what would happen if you had some type of gas in them that would glow when electricically charged? Kind of interesting lighting I guess. Wonder if it would prevent someone from seeing through it when charged, could be an interesting marketing gimmick. Jamie

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > 1. I was wondering if any benefit could be had if you heated between double > pane glass( when needed say at night) with a small nichrom wire? Maybe 20 > watts? or so? > Waste of energy, heat would go outside. > Would it help the r-value any? > I would think it would actually harm the R-value, as metal conducts heat > quite well. > I’ve heard they put argon gas in double pane windows and wonder what > would happen if you had some type of gas in them that would glow when > electricically charged? Kind of interesting lighting I guess. > Wonder if it would prevent someone from seeing through it when charged, > could be an interesting marketing gimmick.

Argon glows bright green when ionized. Just look (from a safe distance) at a MIG welder at work.

Response:

Category Categories: Electric Window Part | No Comments »

Radio pre amplifier

Question:

> Why do you think that is? My Acura CL has a rear window antenna and I am in > the Los Anegles area. Many times I can get San Diego and Santa Barbara area > FM stations. What about audio frequency response? Some folks here > commented about the poor sub woofer performance.

My 1996 328 convertible has a black flexible antenna that is about 15" long mounted on the passenger side rear fender (obviously the older soft top with plastic rear window cannot use rear window antenna.) I am one that was not satisfied with the amount of base response, although the midrange and treble sound great. The 10 speaker HK setup has 4 tweeters (each door), and 6 lower frequency speakers (each door and the kick panels). The largest speaker is between 5 and 6 inch diameter. There is no way to get really good low frequency bass (I play electric bass, and used to service church organs – I want a clean sound down to below 30 or at least 40Hz) from such small speakers – even the B&W speakers in my home system, which have 6-1/2" "woofers" don’t go down that low. So – I added a subwoofer (car and home, although the home has a 15"). A lot of people go for a large trunk mounted subwoofer (I had a 15" sub in the full size van that I had), but the BMW trunk is acoustically isolated from the passenger compartment. The largest space I found for an install allowed mounting an 8" speaker. I chose the square subwoofer made by Kicker, since the surface area is similar to that of a 10" round speaker. This has resulted in a well balanced system with good response as set up by use of a sine wave audio test CD. Also, I don’t want just a loud popping noise for bass, I want something that sounds like a good bass guitar through a Fender amp into the dual 15" speaker cabinet – smooth sounding. My other vehicle is a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, it also had 5 to 6" speakers. I added a subwoofer in it (well I have two – the 15" when I don’t want to carry a lot of stuff, and a 10" smaller cabinet for when I need the room for other things). The 330 series speaker system may have been changed. I know that there is a separate subwoofer in the Z3 (and presumably the Z4), and some of the 5 and 7 series have subs. They may well have added a sub in the 330, I’m not sure. Jim

Response:

> Worth mentioning are loses and interference – signal from the aerial is > amplified and it’s level increased hundred of times > As is the interference since it’s a wideband device.

Not *that* interference – all modern RF amps have some sort of front end filter. Idea is to pick up low level aerial signal, amplify it and increase it’s level – high level signal over low impendance won’t pick up any other radio signals that may be generated by car electronics etc. > – it is easy to route it into a receiver which can be positioned > anywhere in the vehicle, length of the coax is not a factor any more. > A better solution would involve mounting the tuner close to the aerial, > and controlling it remotely – you can already via the steering wheel for > most functions.

Can be done, but it’s more complicated. Hybrid amplifier module is small, cheap, does not require power supply lines (it’s fed via aerial cable with RF coil). > The actual FM RF performance on my E39 is rather worse than my other car > with a much older radio but an ordinary telescopic aerial – and more so on > AM. The only thing to be said for screen aerials are they’re vandal proof.

E60 is not much better on FM, but AM (not that I listen any but tried as a comparison) is way better. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> — > *Always borrow money from pessimists – they don’t expect it back * > RIP Acorn

Response:

I have read in several posts here about the BMW HK radio having a pre amplifier in the antenna line. Why does it need one? Is there a problem with the inherent design that it needs it? Also some posts about the sub woofer having less than great performance. My current Acura Cl has no such problem. I am considering a 330 CI and these questions have me wondering. Thanks. S

Response:

> I have read in several posts here about the BMW HK radio having a pre > amplifier in the antenna line. Why does it need one?

All radios that use the rear screen heater element have an RF amp – it’s not the best of aerials. But the BMW system uses diversity reception – it selects the better of IIRC two different aerials. — *Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm * RIP Acorn

Response:

> I have read in several posts here about the BMW HK radio having a pre > amplifier in the antenna line. Why does it need one? > All radios that use the rear screen heater element have an RF amp – it’s > not the best of aerials. But the BMW system uses diversity reception – it > selects the better of IIRC two different aerials. > — > *Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm * > RIP Acorn

Worth mentioning are loses and interference – signal from the aerial is amplified and it’s level increased hundred of times – it is easy to route it into a receiver which can be positioned anywhere in the vehicle, length of the coax is not a factor any more. Alex

Response:

> Worth mentioning are loses and interference – signal from the aerial is > amplified and it’s level increased hundred of times

As is the interference since it’s a wideband device. > – it is easy to route it into a receiver which can be positioned > anywhere in the vehicle, length of the coax is not a factor any more.

A better solution would involve mounting the tuner close to the aerial, and controlling it remotely – you can already via the steering wheel for most functions. The actual FM RF performance on my E39 is rather worse than my other car with a much older radio but an ordinary telescopic aerial – and more so on AM. The only thing to be said for screen aerials are they’re vandal proof. — *Always borrow money from pessimists – they don’t expect it back * RIP Acorn

Response:

Why do you think that is? My Acura CL has a rear window antenna and I am in the Los Anegles area. Many times I can get San Diego and Santa Barbara area FM stations. What about audio frequency response? Some folks here commented about the poor sub woofer performance. S

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Worth mentioning are loses and interference – signal from the aerial is > amplified and it’s level increased hundred of times > As is the interference since it’s a wideband device. > – it is easy to route it into a receiver which can be positioned > anywhere in the vehicle, length of the coax is not a factor any more. > A better solution would involve mounting the tuner close to the aerial, > and controlling it remotely – you can already via the steering wheel for > most functions. > The actual FM RF performance on my E39 is rather worse than my other car > with a much older radio but an ordinary telescopic aerial – and more so on > AM. The only thing to be said for screen aerials are they’re vandal proof. > — > *Always borrow money from pessimists – they don’t expect it back * > RIP Acorn

Response:

Category Categories: Electric Window Part | No Comments »

VIN WBABN53431JU34444

Question:

Hi all Long time lurker, 1st time poster, here. I have a ‘91325 convertible (103K mi) in great mechanical condition (although the roof needs some restitching) which I bought from my father (i.e., 1.5 owners). For ME, a convertible is NOT suitable for a tropical climate (too hot). You guys have solve a myriad of problems for me (thank you, Fred and others), such as leaking taillights, etc. I’m going to look at a car tomorrow (VIN above) that the skeptic in me says is ‘too good to be true’: 2001 330i coupe, 37,000 mi, all options, $20,000. Carfax says no problems; I will verify the VIN when I see the car. My other ‘option’ might be to restore the cars’ iinterior and to buy a hardtop roof. Any suggestions where/how to acquire one and how much? Your input, if any, would be invaluable to me in making a decision (as I’ve learned alot from reading your posts). BTW, IF I buy the newer car, anyone interested in the ‘91? Well maintained and excellent mechanicals but needs some interior work and could do with a paint job (faded but not peeling), one noticable (on inspection) ding, and aforementioned roof problem. Al Ritchie

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all > Long time lurker, 1st time poster, here. I have a ‘91325 convertible (103K > mi) in great mechanical condition (although the roof needs some restitching) > which I bought from my father (i.e., 1.5 owners). For ME, a convertible is > NOT suitable for a tropical climate (too hot). You guys have solve a myriad > of problems for me (thank you, Fred and others), such as leaking taillights, > etc. > I’m going to look at a car tomorrow (VIN above) that the skeptic in me says > is ‘too good to be true’: 2001 330i coupe, 37,000 mi, all options, $20,000. > Carfax says no problems; I will verify the VIN when I see the car. > My other ‘option’ might be to restore the cars’ iinterior and to buy a > hardtop roof. Any suggestions where/how to acquire one and how much? > Your input, if any, would be invaluable to me in making a decision (as I’ve > learned alot from reading your posts). > BTW, IF I buy the newer car, anyone interested in the ‘91? Well maintained > and excellent mechanicals but needs some interior work and could do with a > paint job (faded but not peeling), one noticable (on inspection) ding, and > aforementioned roof problem. > Al Ritchie

I have a 96 328 convertible, I looked for a year and half on eBay auctions for the matching hardtop. (the earlier 325 also has a hardtop, but the 94-99 E36 is a different hardtop). I wanted one in a color that at least didn’t conflict, and close enough so that I could drive my BMW to the location and pick it up, to save several hunderd on shipping. BTW, if you add a hardtop, you will have to go to a BMW dealer or otherwise locate the mounting kit for the hardtop, which is several parts that install in the chassis to hold the back part of the hardtop down to the body, and to provide electrical connections for the dome lights and heated rear window. Another very nice accessory is either a garage mounted lift kit to remove the top, or at least a dolly to put the top on when you take it off the car. One more thing – if you plan to leave the hardtop on for a prolonged period, tape a couple of thin cloth towels to the top so that the cover the plastic rear window of the convertible top. Otherwise, the window will deteriorate either cracking or getting a white stripe a couple of inches that you can’t see through. You also want a large cloth bag or at least a couple of sheets to put over the hardtop while it is stored. I do like the hardtop. The rear window is considerably larger than the one on the soft top. There is less wind noise. However, there is a bit of creaking noise when one goes over bumps, which comes from the front part of the top sliding slightly on the upper windshield frame. I live in southeast Virginia, and usually put the top on all through the winter months, then remove it for the summer. In your case, you might want to do the opposite. I do understand, mid summer here is too warm and humid to put the top down. My garage isn’t high enough to mount a lift device, and also has too much other stuff in it to be able to park the car inside anyhow. This necessitates a minimum of 2 fairly strong people, preferably 3 (1 at the front, the other 2 on each side at the rear) in order to remove or replace the hardtop. I got a 3" long scratch on the rear deck lid when one person wasn’t able to hold the top. It is made of aluminum, with a glass rear window, and is large and heavy enough to be a bit of a pain to handle. HTH, Jim

Response:

> Hi all > I’m going to look at a car tomorrow (VIN above) that the skeptic in me says > is ‘too good to be true’: 2001 330i coupe, 37,000 mi, all options, $20,000. > Carfax says no problems; I will verify the VIN when I see the car.

Al, If that deal *is* real, I would say go for it and sell off the older convertible. Even if it isn’t, you might want to do some shopping for a hardtop for the future. Convertibles demand a premium, in terms of both price and also trade-offs (noisier, heavier, less visibility, etc.) so if you aren’t going to benefiit from putting the top down much, it would make sense to sell it off to someone who will and get a nice hardtop coupe or sedan that better suits your particular needs. -Fred W

Response:

I am curious whatever happened with VIN WBABN53431JU34444 (the 2001 330ci for $20k)? Did you see the car?? Thanks.

Response:

Whatever happened with this car (2001 330ci for $20k)? Did you see it? The seller says it’s still available. Was it a scam?

Response:

Category Categories: Electric Window Part | No Comments »

Cloudy Headlight Glass?

Question:

I have a 1999 528i and the glass that covers the headlights is very cloudy, mostly from what looks like dirt that somehow made its way inside the headlight, or just the normal aging process of glass. Has anyone had the same problem, and can they be removed and cleaned without a lot of effort? If not, can they be replaced for a minimal cost? Thanks

Response:

> I have a 1999 528i and the glass that covers the headlights is very > cloudy, mostly from what looks like dirt that somehow made its way > inside the headlight, or just the normal aging process of glass. Has > anyone had the same problem, and can they be removed and cleaned > without a lot of effort? If not, can they be replaced for a minimal > cost? > Thanks

1999? Are you sure that’s glass and not a plastic / lexan lens? The plastic types can be polished. http://www.properautocare.com/polplasheadl.html

Response:

> I have a 1999 528i and the glass that covers the headlights is very cloudy, > mostly from what looks like dirt that somehow made its way inside the > headlight, or just the normal aging process of glass. Has anyone had the > same problem, and can they be removed and cleaned without a lot of effort? > If not, can they be replaced for a minimal cost? > Thanks

I removed the entire assembly, removed the glass lenses and wiped down the inside of the headlight assembly to get rid of a dirty film that had build up. After polishing the exterior I still could see many, many small pits but the cloudiness was gone. ( I bought my 97 5′er last year.) I applied X-Pel headlight protection vinyl covers. The 3M adhesive on the back of the vinyl film (the material is 40 mils thick) acted like optical cement. After following the directions (including making up an alcohol/water mix) and allowing time for the application to cure (dry) I noticed the little pits were not visible, even with the headlights on. Added bonus. SC 00 Z3 97 528i

Response:

thanks for the info. has anyone priced out replacing these altogether? I’m curios as to whether it’s worth cleaning them or just replacing them completely. thanks

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1999 528i and the glass that covers the headlights is very > cloudy, > mostly from what looks like dirt that somehow made its way inside the > headlight, or just the normal aging process of glass. Has anyone had the > same problem, and can they be removed and cleaned without a lot of effort? > If not, can they be replaced for a minimal cost? > Thanks > I removed the entire assembly, removed the glass lenses and wiped down the > inside of the headlight assembly to get rid of a dirty film that had build > up. After polishing the exterior I still could see many, many small pits > but the cloudiness was gone. ( I bought my 97 5′er last year.) I applied > X-Pel headlight protection vinyl covers. The 3M adhesive on the back of the > vinyl film (the material is 40 mils thick) acted like optical cement. After > following the directions (including making up an alcohol/water mix) and > allowing time for the application to cure (dry) I noticed the little pits > were not visible, even with the headlights on. Added bonus. > SC > 00 Z3 > 97 528i

Response:

Do a search on the net for prices or go to a main dealer.. It must take days to replace milk and bread in your household, having to ask others where and how first.. lol

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> thanks for the info. has anyone priced out replacing these altogether? I’m > curios as to whether it’s worth cleaning them or just replacing them > completely. thanks > > I have a 1999 528i and the glass that covers the headlights is very > cloudy, > > mostly from what looks like dirt that somehow made its way inside the > > headlight, or just the normal aging process of glass. Has anyone had > the > > same problem, and can they be removed and cleaned without a lot of > effort? > > If not, can they be replaced for a minimal cost? > > Thanks > I removed the entire assembly, removed the glass lenses and wiped down the > inside of the headlight assembly to get rid of a dirty film that had build > up. After polishing the exterior I still could see many, many small pits > but the cloudiness was gone. ( I bought my 97 5′er last year.) I applied > X-Pel headlight protection vinyl covers. The 3M adhesive on the back of > the > vinyl film (the material is 40 mils thick) acted like optical cement. > After > following the directions (including making up an alcohol/water mix) and > allowing time for the application to cure (dry) I noticed the little pits > were not visible, even with the headlights on. Added bonus. > SC > 00 Z3 > 97 528i

Response:

> thanks for the info. has anyone priced out replacing these altogether? I’m > curios as to whether it’s worth cleaning them or just replacing them > completely. thanks

Snip Yes, when I bought my 528i from a dealer, one of the conditions of the sale was he repair one of the headlights as the adjustment mechanism was broken causing the light to move about when driving. He priced a new replacement at over $300 ea. and I agreed to a used replacement. Some aftermarket places sell replacements at a lessor cost, but its still considerable outlay vs polishing pads on an electric drill. I used Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Polish #10 and Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Cleaner #17 (I had these as part of a rear plastic window care kit for my Z3 convertable top). Here’s an example of headlight polishing tips: http://www.properautocare.com/polplasheadl.html http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article19.html http://www.allpar.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=33832 http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/detailing/forum.php?postid=35388… SC 00 Z3 97 528i

Response:

Category Categories: Electric Window Part | No Comments »

Where is the cheapest place

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I don’t think you can get a new window regulator anywhere but the > manufacturer of the vehicle. > nospam > The initial cost may be higher than a salvage yard, but Autozone does have > that amazing lifetime warranty. > Not affiliated – just a satisfied customer with a ‘94 Astro that’s been > used > as a newspaper delivery vehicle all of its life (as well as cross country > to > dog shows, etc.) – oh yeah, I forgot. It’s now up to 251,000 miles. > Mark Sparge > > to buy GM Parts? I need a electric window regulator for a 1991 Chevy > > pickup. > > Thanks

here’s a link for one. 29.95 http://store.yahoo.com/dpstore/window-regulators-chevrolet-window-reg…

Response:

> The initial cost may be higher than a salvage yard, but Autozone does have > that amazing lifetime warranty. > Not affiliated – just a satisfied customer with a ‘94 Astro that’s been used > as a newspaper delivery vehicle all of its life (as well as cross country to > dog shows, etc.) – oh yeah, I forgot. It’s now up to 251,000 miles. > Mark Sparge

Auto Zone, and parts house of the like, are pleauge. 10 reasons not to shop at those places: #1. The kid working behind the counter tells you the part you need is "Not Availible" even thou there are 10 in stock. Because he/she can not use a paper catalog. #2. You like your parts made in America. #3. You might actually want some advice. #4. You just bought the same part from them last month, only to have them tell you it is a "Dealer or Junk Yard only Item". #5. Hearing them say "It’s a Dealer or Junk Yard only item" gets you pissed off. Because the dealer stopped selling it 3 years ago, all the used ones are broke, and you know someone makes them. #6. You get sick of them giving you the wrong parts 8 out of 10 times. #7. At their 24 hour stores, the computers go down at 3 am every night. After hearing "sorry our computer is down" 50 times you want to open your own parts house right across from every autozone. #8. They have tried to push gasket sealer on you for the last time. #9. They never have enough people to asnwer their phones and help customers. #10. Why should they carry parts for your car, after all it’s old. I really do have a problem with places like Auto Zone. Every thing from the Idiots they hire, to the horid advice they give, to cheep tools and parts they push on you. A good example is I went in to get a set of rear springs for a Late model Buick. Someone had cut the springs, and I was returning it to Stock for a used car dealer. I Asked about springs, and was told the car was "too new" This was the fall of 2003. The car was 6 years old. Then one of their bright empolyees, wering a parts specialist tag, came up and dared to suggest… That I use spring spacers/spring jacks. Telling me that did wonders for her car. I went to a well known locally owned parts house, and got the springs there. In from the warehouse in less then an hour. When I told them of what an Auto Zone empolyee had suggested, we all had a goo laugh. Another time I was at Auto Zone I went in to get a gasket. Knew the Fel-Pro part number, and what it looked like. I give the Fel-Pro number to the manager, who looks at me cross-eyed. Then makes me go thru the whole what is your car BS. After all of that he goes, looks at the number on the shelf, and just grabs a gasket out of the bin. As he hands it to me, he calls out "next". I turn to walk away, and remembered where I was. I looked down thru the clear celophane package and see a gasket for a jeep, not a Chevy 2.8 V6, but a AMC/Jeep 4.0L. I inform him that it is wrong, has the wrong part number, and doesn’t even work on what I was repairing. It took 5 minutes to get him to look it up again. Then he walks back to the same bin, grabs one at random again and hands it to me. I was watching, he didn’t even look to see if the part number on the package matched the part number on the bin, or the shelf. Then their is the fact that people at Auto Zone have to push gasket sealer on you. You can be there buying Fel-Pro Perma-Dry gaskets and they will argue with you that you have to use gasket sealer. Even with my Commerical Discounts I aviod Auto Zone and the like brand parts houses. I would perfer to lose a little money, and buy the majority of new parts at real Parts Houses. Sure the lighting is usually not so good, the prices a bit higher, and the floors aint so clean. Some of them still allow you to smoke in them. But when you really need to speak to a pro, or want good service, those are the places to go. Charles I remember when a chevy dealer in town had a parts department that stayed open till midnight Monday thru Thursday.

Response:

> I don’t think you can get a new window regulator anywhere but the > manufacturer of the vehicle. > nospam

Depends on the vehical really. Some vehicals you can get after market replacement parts for, some you can’t when it comes to stuff like window regulators. 73 to 87 C/K and 88 to 91 R/V trucks you can get made in tiawan window regulators, both manual, and power, for less then $30. My self, I would rather get a decent used regulator then by a tiawan made part. Atleast I know the used one will fit right. Charles

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I don’t think you can get a new window regulator anywhere but the > manufacturer of the vehicle. > nospam > > The initial cost may be higher than a salvage yard, but Autozone does > have > > that amazing lifetime warranty. > > Not affiliated – just a satisfied customer with a ‘94 Astro that’s been > used > > as a newspaper delivery vehicle all of its life (as well as cross > country > to > > dog shows, etc.) – oh yeah, I forgot. It’s now up to 251,000 miles. > > Mark Sparge > > > to buy GM Parts? I need a electric window regulator for a 1991 Chevy > > > pickup. > > > Thanks > here’s a link for one. 29.95

http://store.yahoo.com/dpstore/window-regulators-chevrolet-window-reg… He needs one for electric windows, but your right they do have a manual regulator. nospam

Response:

to buy GM Parts? I need a electric window regulator for a 1991 Chevy pickup. Thanks

Response:

Salvage yard

> to buy GM Parts? I need a electric window regulator for a 1991 Chevy > pickup. > Thanks

—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

I buy a lot of the higher priced GM stuff I need here http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/. They usually are a lot less that your local GM sources. nospam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> to buy GM Parts? I need a electric window regulator for a 1991 Chevy > pickup. > Thanks

Response:

The initial cost may be higher than a salvage yard, but Autozone does have that amazing lifetime warranty. Not affiliated – just a satisfied customer with a ‘94 Astro that’s been used as a newspaper delivery vehicle all of its life (as well as cross country to dog shows, etc.) – oh yeah, I forgot. It’s now up to 251,000 miles. Mark Sparge

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> to buy GM Parts? I need a electric window regulator for a 1991 Chevy > pickup. > Thanks

Response:

I don’t think you can get a new window regulator anywhere but the manufacturer of the vehicle. nospam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The initial cost may be higher than a salvage yard, but Autozone does have > that amazing lifetime warranty. > Not affiliated – just a satisfied customer with a ‘94 Astro that’s been used > as a newspaper delivery vehicle all of its life (as well as cross country to > dog shows, etc.) – oh yeah, I forgot. It’s now up to 251,000 miles. > Mark Sparge > to buy GM Parts? I need a electric window regulator for a 1991 Chevy > pickup. > Thanks

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Category Categories: Electric Window Part | No Comments »

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