Question:

> [...] > I do wish that BMW had equipped the Z3 with an integrated flip-up hard > boot for the convertible top, like the ones in the early Corvettes: > http://www.vintagecorvettes.com/57.html

Sometimes I wish I had that kind of trunk space for my Z3! > Aside from minor niggles with the convertible top design, I couldn’t be > happier with my Impala Brown 2000 Z3 2.5L.  It’s the roadster I’ve always > wanted, but with handling and safety features (DSC, ABS, side air bags) > that none of the classic roadsters possess.

I feel the same way about my ‘97 2.8.  There are a lot of older cars out there that would be a lot of fun, but I probably wouldn’t want to take them on a long trip.  Even though my Z3 has ~124K miles, I still wouldn’t hesitate to take it on a 1000 mile round trip to the beach. -=- Tom

Response:

> If you really want to cut down on the wind buffeting you around you can > try driving with the windows up some, or of course the top up, but > personally, I just drive with everything down (in good weather) and revel > in the open-ness!!

I agree, Fred.  I traded my ‘97 Z3 2.8 on an ‘03 Z4 3.0 and while the performance, improved top and added luggage space is great, I do miss the openness of the Z3.  The Z3’s cabin reminded me of a TR2 I briefly owned long ago – only with functioning (non-Lucas) electrics! Tom

Response:

> Mid 99 change mostly dealt with shape of the rear fenders, and trunk > lid and rear tail lights.  The later cars rear fenders are "humped" > shoulders. Brings to mind a football player with pads.

IMO, the redesigned Z3 rear quarters draw design cues from the legendary AC Cobra roadsters: http://www.xs4all.nl/~luukb/cobra02.jpg The pronounced, feminine "waist", just aft of the doors on the Cobra, is subtly captured in the redesigned Z3 body styling. In general, the Z3 draws many design cues from the classic Jaguar XKE roadsters. Note the subtle hood bulge, fender flares, rear quarter shapes in these photos: http://www.autoweek.com/images/classifieds/1711/4?3656720856589196927 http://www.autoweek.com/images/classifieds/1711/1?3567486724233548349 I do wish that BMW had equipped the Z3 with an integrated flip-up hard boot for the convertible top, like the ones in the early Corvettes: http://www.vintagecorvettes.com/57.html Notice how seamlessly the flip-up hard boot integrates with the chrome-trimmed seat surrounds. This is a very elegant design. Also note how the exhaust ports are integrated into the rear fenders.  My father has a Vette exactly like this one.  IMO, it’s one of the most beautiful roadsters ever made. Aside from minor niggles with the convertible top design, I couldn’t be happier with my Impala Brown 2000 Z3 2.5L.  It’s the roadster I’ve always wanted, but with handling and safety features (DSC, ABS, side air bags) that none of the classic roadsters possess. B – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Wind deflector makes a HUGE difference. >I’ve been reading various reviews, specifications for the 2.8L model in >different publications (online & in print) and there seems to be some >confusion with regard to the age (and UK Reg letter) of the very last >2.8L. >Also, "A face-lift in April ‘99 brought better insulation for the hood as >well as some minor cosmetic changes" was mentioned…can anyone shed any >light on this cosmetic change etc..? >Finally, does a Wind Deflector make THAT MUCH difference to the enjoyment >of >this car as some have suggested that it does (in a good way)? >Cheers.

Response:

> I’ve been reading various reviews, specifications for the 2.8L model in > different publications (online & in print) and there seems to be some > confusion with regard to the age (and UK Reg letter) of the very last > 2.8L. > Also, "A face-lift in April ‘99 brought better insulation for the hood as > well as some minor cosmetic changes" was mentioned…can anyone shed any > light on this cosmetic change etc..? > Finally, does a Wind Deflector make THAT MUCH difference to the enjoyment > of this car as some have suggested that it does (in a good way)?

I own this exact car, and no, in my opinion it does not make a *huge* difference.  It makes a small amount of difference as to how much back draft you get, which my wife seems to appreciate more than I do, but it is not that big of a deal to me. If you really want to cut down on the wind buffeting you around you can try driving with the windows up some, or of course the top up, but personally, I just drive with everything down (in good weather) and revel in the open-ness!! -Fred W ‘97 Z3 2.8 ‘95 325i ‘94 540iA

Response:

Mid 99 change mostly dealt with shape of the rear fenders, and trunk lid and rear tail lights.  The later cars rear fenders are "humped" shoulders. Brings to mind a football player with pads. Wind deflector makes a HUGE difference. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I’ve been reading various reviews, specifications for the 2.8L model in >different publications (online & in print) and there seems to be some >confusion with regard to the age (and UK Reg letter) of the very last 2.8L. >Also, "A face-lift in April ‘99 brought better insulation for the hood as >well as some minor cosmetic changes" was mentioned…can anyone shed any >light on this cosmetic change etc..? >Finally, does a Wind Deflector make THAT MUCH difference to the enjoyment of >this car as some have suggested that it does (in a good way)? >Cheers.

Response:

> I’ve been reading various reviews, specifications for the 2.8L model in > different publications (online & in print) and there seems to be some > confusion with regard to the age (and UK Reg letter) of the very last 2.8L. > Also, "A face-lift in April ‘99 brought better insulation for the hood as > well as some minor cosmetic changes" was mentioned…can anyone shed any > light on this cosmetic change etc..? > Finally, does a Wind Deflector make THAT MUCH difference to the enjoyment of > this car as some have suggested that it does (in a good way)?

From my limited experience with open top vehicles, the wind deflector shoulud make a huge difference. The airflow is over the passenger compartment because of the rake of the windshield, but the bubble collapses just behind the passneger compartment, and the relative low air pressure behind the windshield acts like a vacuum and draws air against the back of one’s head. People with short hair, and a hat, probably wouldn’t notice or care, but people with long hair will be constantly brushing their hair out of their face if you don’t have the deflector, or they will want to tie their hair into a pony tail and wear a hat. If you enjoy smoking a cigar while driving, the deflector will be a very nice touch. You will find the heater is more effective as well.

Response:

I’ve been reading various reviews, specifications for the 2.8L model in different publications (online & in print) and there seems to be some confusion with regard to the age (and UK Reg letter) of the very last 2.8L. Also, "A face-lift in April ‘99 brought better insulation for the hood as well as some minor cosmetic changes" was mentioned…can anyone shed any light on this cosmetic change etc..? Finally, does a Wind Deflector make THAT MUCH difference to the enjoyment of this car as some have suggested that it does (in a good way)? Cheers.

Response:

Question:

found this on the news wires.. in a way it’s funny, and in a way sad that simple things can cause colissal inconvenience…. If I were to have come upon the trash can, I would have probably located and removed the item vs shutting down the airport…. If you’re going to blow something up, normally you would not want the bomb discovered until it detonates…… bombs usually don’t draw attention to themselves…. they just go BOOMB and do their damage…. granted the vibrator could be used as an attention getter followed by an explosive to hurt the curious….possible, but unlikely +++ A scare triggered by a vibrating sex toy shut down a major Australian regional airport for almost an hour Monday, police said. The vibrating object was discovered Monday morning inside a garbage can at the terminal cafeteria at Mackay Airport in Queensland state, a police spokeswoman said. Cafeteria manager Lynne Bryant said her staff had been cleaning tables when they noticed a strange humming noise coming from the garbage can. advertisement "It was rather disconcerting when the rubbish bin started humming furiously," Bryant said. "We called security and next minute everybody was being evacuated while they checked it out." The police spokeswoman said the terminal was evacuated immediately. Passengers who had arrived on a recent flight, check-in staff, cafeteria employees and hire car personnel were all forced to leave. "Another two flights were expected to land at that stage but alternate arrangements were made for the passengers to collect their luggage away from the terminal," the spokeswoman said on the usual condition of anonymity. She said the emergency alert was canceled after 45 minutes when the package was identified as an adult sex toy. Bryant said in retrospect, the humming sounded exactly like a vibrator, but it was better to be safe then sorry. —  + www.analon.com [UNIX/X-Windows & CDE] 888-5-ANALON …Chemistry, Computer systems, software & networks that WORK! …..Send ASCII TEXT mail/attchmnts ONLY!!** I use UNIX & LINUX!!

Response:

> found this on the news wires.. in a way it’s funny, and in a way sad > that simple things can cause colissal inconvenience…. > A scare triggered by a vibrating sex toy shut down a major Australian > regional airport for almost an hour Monday, police said.

Mackay doesn’t really qualify as a "major" airport. > Bryant said in retrospect, the humming sounded exactly like a vibrator, > but it was better to be safe then sorry.

There was an "Airline" episode where a "vibrator" started to do its stuff in a piece of luggage that was in the luggage office. They didn’t evacuate the airport and the staff immediatly knew it was a vibrator. Turns out that when they opened it, it was an electric toothbrush. And anyone who has seen movies with bombs knows that bombs either have a "click click" sound, or a "beep" every second with a bigger beep just as it is about to detonate.

Response:

this is not unique to "minor" airports, this sort of nonsense happens everywhere lets get real….. someone wanting to cause harm or destruction does not want their device discovered……  this is not the first time a vibrator or sex toy caused delay of  flights – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> found this on the news wires.. in a way it’s funny, and in a way sad > that simple things can cause colissal inconvenience…. > A scare triggered by a vibrating sex toy shut down a major Australian > regional airport for almost an hour Monday, police said. > Mackay doesn’t really qualify as a "major" airport. > Bryant said in retrospect, the humming sounded exactly like a vibrator, > but it was better to be safe then sorry. > There was an "Airline" episode where a "vibrator" started to do its stuff in a > piece of luggage that was in the luggage office. They didn’t evacuate the > airport and the staff immediatly knew it was a vibrator. Turns out that when > they opened it, it was an electric toothbrush. > And anyone who has seen movies with bombs knows that bombs either have a > "click click" sound, or a "beep" every second with a bigger beep just as it is > about to detonate.

– …Chemistry, Computer systems, software & networks that WORK! …..Send ASCII TEXT mail/attchmnts ONLY!!** I use UNIX & LINUX!!

Response:

Question:

> Hi, > This car is great to drive but recently it has just experienced a major > problem with the drivers window.  When opening it, there is a loud noise > like the glass is breaking (a loud metal noise).  But the motor is still > operational. > I have therefore just left the window half open and tried to see if the > glass is loose and I can move it out of the socket in the left frame.  Is > this a design problem or do I need to take it to the dealer and pay a > fortune ? > Any help much appreciated

I had the same problem on my 318i E36 model. But over time it just stopped doing that, when I spoke to the dealer they said some times water goes into the motor and makes the noise till all of it has dried up. I dont belive them though!

Response:

Hi, This car is great to drive but recently it has just experienced a major problem with the drivers window.  When opening it, there is a loud noise like the glass is breaking (a loud metal noise).  But the motor is still operational. I have therefore just left the window half open and tried to see if the glass is loose and I can move it out of the socket in the left frame.  Is this a design problem or do I need to take it to the dealer and pay a fortune ? Any help much appreciated

Response:

Question:

I have a couple of mid 90’s BMW 3 series whose window weatherstripping is binding and squealing a bit.  What’s the right product for lubricating these? I’m pretty sure any petroleum-based lube or silicone is going to smear on the glass.  Is graphite appropriate, or is it harder than the glass?  What else is there? I’d rather not replace the weatherstripping since it’s OK otherwise.  Worst case, does anyone know where I can get replacement 3 series weatherstripping for a good price?     Randy — Randy Crawford   http://www.ruf.rice.edu/~rand   rand AT rice DOT edu

Response:

It sounds like you need a tube of gummi-pflege: http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_9.htm Note, there’s supposedly a nationwide "shortage" of this stuff at BMW dealers (or so they say). Get down to your nearest dealer today….

Response:

At work, we were told to use radiator antifreeze to lubricate any rubber weatherstripping.

> I have a couple of mid 90’s BMW 3 series whose window weatherstripping is > binding and squealing a bit.  What’s the right product for lubricating these? > I’m pretty sure any petroleum-based lube or silicone is going to smear on the > glass.  Is graphite appropriate, or is it harder than the glass?  What else is > there? > I’d rather not replace the weatherstripping since it’s OK otherwise. Worst > case, does anyone know where I can get replacement 3 series

weatherstripping for – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> a good price? >     Randy > — > Randy Crawford   http://www.ruf.rice.edu/~rand   rand AT rice DOT edu

Response:

Gummi-pfleg is BMW’s recommend product, but almost any spray silicone will do the job. Roll the window down and spray it into the weather striping on the front and back of the door not the rubber seal . Run the window up and down a few times and it should fix the problem.

> I have a couple of mid 90’s BMW 3 series whose window weatherstripping is > binding and squealing a bit.  What’s the right product for lubricating these? > I’m pretty sure any petroleum-based lube or silicone is going to smear on the > glass.  Is graphite appropriate, or is it harder than the glass?  What else is > there? > I’d rather not replace the weatherstripping since it’s OK otherwise. Worst > case, does anyone know where I can get replacement 3 series

weatherstripping for > a good price? >     Randy > — > Randy Crawford   http://www.ruf.rice.edu/~rand   rand AT rice DOT edu is

BMW’s

Response:

I used silicone dielectric grease in the window channels only.  They slide like new, now.  Oh, I tested this on Fords, YMMV. PoD

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Gummi-pfleg is BMW’s recommend product, but almost any spray silicone will > do the job. Roll the window down and spray it into the weather striping on > the front and back of the door not the rubber seal . Run the window up and > down a few times and it should fix the problem. > I have a couple of mid 90’s BMW 3 series whose window weatherstripping is > binding and squealing a bit.  What’s the right product for lubricating > these? > I’m pretty sure any petroleum-based lube or silicone is going to smear on > the > glass.  Is graphite appropriate, or is it harder than the glass?  What > else is > there? > I’d rather not replace the weatherstripping since it’s OK otherwise. > Worst > case, does anyone know where I can get replacement 3 series > weatherstripping for > a good price? >     Randy > — > Randy Crawford   http://www.ruf.rice.edu/~rand   rand AT rice DOT edu is > BMW’s

Response:

Question:

>The Horn Works fine.

My guess is still the clockspring.

Response:

> >The Horn Works fine. > My guess is still the clockspring.

Mine too.  I’m not familiar with the minivans, but on most Chrysler vehicles, there are at least two separate circuits (pairs of wires) in the clockspring. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

recall?? check with your local dealer it might be covered – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

possible clockspring unit in the steering wheel. some are covered by a recall. check with chrysler.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> recall?? check with your local dealer it might be covered > My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

You were right it was the F%$*&$$$ Clock Spring.  What the heck is a clockspring anyways?  I would expect for $200 it is pretty nice little gizmo.  And no it was not under the recall – that was only for up to 1998 models (I see how well they fixed it though …). Now I just need to figure out what the loud noise is when I first lower the drivers window. Karl

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

The clockspring allows steering wheel mounted controls to maintain their electrical connection while turning the steering wheel.  The clockspring is around $80, but the labor is probably about 1.5 hours.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You were right it was the F%$*&$$$ Clock Spring.  What the heck is a > clockspring anyways?  I would expect for $200 it is pretty nice little > gizmo.  And no it was not under the recall – that was only for up to 1998 > models (I see how well they fixed it though …). > Now I just need to figure out what the loud noise is when I first lower the > drivers window. > Karl > My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

> You were right it was the F%$*&$$$ Clock Spring.  What the heck is a > clockspring anyways?

It’s the device that allows the steering wheel to rotate through its full travel while maintaining constant and *reliable* integrity of the power, ground and signal wires for all electrical devices contained within the steering wheel: The horn switches, the cruise control switches, the airbag.

Response:

My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any ideas? Karl

Response:

>My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise >control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and >re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any >ideas?

Does your horn work? Sounds like your clockspring on which there may be a recall. I say may as 2000 model year may not. You can check with your dealer or go to "www. chrysler.com" or "www.dodge.com", click the "For Owners" on the menu, then follow directions by adding your VIN. from that you will learn which recalls have not been performed on your vehicle. RP

Response:

The Horn Works fine.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise >control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and >re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any >ideas? > Does your horn work? Sounds like your clockspring on which there may be a > recall. I say may as 2000 model year may not. You can check with your dealer or > go to "www. chrysler.com" or "www.dodge.com", click the "For Owners" on the > menu, then follow directions by adding your VIN. from that you will learn which > recalls have not been performed on your vehicle. > RP

Response:

My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any ideas? Karl

Response:

>My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise >control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and >re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any >ideas?

Does your horn work? Sounds like your clockspring on which there may be a recall. I say may as 2000 model year may not. You can check with your dealer or go to "www. chrysler.com" or "www.dodge.com", click the "For Owners" on the menu, then follow directions by adding your VIN. from that you will learn which recalls have not been performed on your vehicle. RP

Response:

The Horn Works fine.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise >control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and >re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any >ideas? > Does your horn work? Sounds like your clockspring on which there may be a > recall. I say may as 2000 model year may not. You can check with your dealer or > go to "www. chrysler.com" or "www.dodge.com", click the "For Owners" on the > menu, then follow directions by adding your VIN. from that you will learn which > recalls have not been performed on your vehicle. > RP

Response:

>The Horn Works fine.

My guess is still the clockspring.

Response:

> >The Horn Works fine. > My guess is still the clockspring.

Mine too.  I’m not familiar with the minivans, but on most Chrysler vehicles, there are at least two separate circuits (pairs of wires) in the clockspring. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

recall?? check with your local dealer it might be covered – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

possible clockspring unit in the steering wheel. some are covered by a recall. check with chrysler.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> recall?? check with your local dealer it might be covered > My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

You were right it was the F%$*&$$$ Clock Spring.  What the heck is a clockspring anyways?  I would expect for $200 it is pretty nice little gizmo.  And no it was not under the recall – that was only for up to 1998 models (I see how well they fixed it though …). Now I just need to figure out what the loud noise is when I first lower the drivers window. Karl

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

The clockspring allows steering wheel mounted controls to maintain their electrical connection while turning the steering wheel.  The clockspring is around $80, but the labor is probably about 1.5 hours.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You were right it was the F%$*&$$$ Clock Spring.  What the heck is a > clockspring anyways?  I would expect for $200 it is pretty nice little > gizmo.  And no it was not under the recall – that was only for up to 1998 > models (I see how well they fixed it though …). > Now I just need to figure out what the loud noise is when I first lower the > drivers window. > Karl > My Air bag Warning light is on on my 2000 Grand Caravan and the cruise > control is not working.  I checked all the fuses, disconnected and > re-connected the battery.  Everything looks ok, the car runs fine, any > ideas? > Karl

Response:

> You were right it was the F%$*&$$$ Clock Spring.  What the heck is a > clockspring anyways?

It’s the device that allows the steering wheel to rotate through its full travel while maintaining constant and *reliable* integrity of the power, ground and signal wires for all electrical devices contained within the steering wheel: The horn switches, the cruise control switches, the airbag.

Response:

Question:

> I’m not sure I would want to resell it. It’s a 95 M reg, 316i, 123,000 > miles on it with quite a bit of service history, though not complete.

Why then take it to a main dealer? Isn’t there a specialist nearby? They’re often just as good (or better) but much cheaper – no expensive reception etc to pay for. —      RIP Acorn  

Response:

> I’m not sure I would want to resell it. It’s a 95 M reg, 316i, 123,000 > miles on it with quite a bit of service history, though not complete. > Why then take it to a main dealer? Isn’t there a specialist nearby? > They’re often just as good (or better) but much cheaper – no expensive > reception etc to pay for.

I am taking it to a BMW dealer because where I live there aren’t many (if any) BMW specialists who work from little garages etc, at least not that I know of. Also I want the job done 100% correctly because I want to keep the vehicle until it is no longer viable to keep on the road. Its a lovely car and if I can get another 3 or 4 years and 200,000 miles out of it, then why not even if it is costing me a little bit in servicing / minor repairs etc. Geordie

Response:

> I am taking it to a BMW dealer because where I live there aren’t many > (if any) BMW specialists who work from little garages etc, at least not > that I know of.

My local specialist has workshops bigger than my nearest main dealer.;-) > Also I want the job done 100% correctly because I want > to keep the vehicle until it is no longer viable to keep on the road.

If only using a main dealer guaranteed a 100% correct job. > Its a lovely car and if I can get another 3 or 4 years and 200,000 miles > out of it, then why not even if it is costing me a little bit in > servicing / minor repairs etc.

Good principle, maintaining a car properly. And all cars, new or old, need servicing. — *The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth.      RIP Acorn  

Response:

When I lived in the UK, I drove BMW’s. and I always took them back to the dealer for servicing.. Sytner Warwick were always above board, and conversations with other people convinced me that I was paying no more overall to keep my cars in top condition than others were taking their cars to non-BMW garages.. the dealership is now owned by Damon Hill, I understand.. Frank Sytner is a multi-millionaire and drives around in Ferrrari’s and other really expensive cars.. there are those who would not help him along by going to other garages, but I was every bit as proud of my immaculately maintained BM’s as Frank was of his steeds.. my three BM’s were an M5, M635csi and 318i.. good luck in whatever you decide..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m not sure I would want to resell it. It’s a 95 M reg, 316i, 123,000 miles > on it with quite a bit of service history, though not complete. The car > seems in good enough condition, I have had it for about 7 months now and the > only problem I have had so far was the wheel bearing on the back had to be > changed. Also, anyone have any idea what sort of cost I will be looking at > to have the window seal on the passenger door and the two motors in the > electric mirrors replaced? They aren’t in the best of nick. > Still, its a lovely car and one that I wouldn’t mind keeping and running > until it dies a death one day, though hopefully not in the near future! > Geordie > BMW service history is worth a great deal when it comes to reselling.. get > it done.. Inspection II covers just about everything.. > > I am getting my 95 316i an inspection two at a BMW dealer next week. > What > do > > they do during the inspection, and what level of service do they give > the > > car? I am in the UK. > > Also, I am going to be charged

Question:

I have a 2001 Chrysler 300M with 45,000 miles on it. I just replaced a steering pinion gear for $650.00. Has anybody else had a problem with this? It started out with a lot of freeplay in the wheel when going down the road.

Response:

Have owned a 300M since they reappeared in 1999 Model – now have 50,000 miles and no such problem.  Only problem was the electric window which I fixed myself. And a transmission problem early on which Chrysler fixed.  Steering pinion gear should last much much longer –

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2001 Chrysler 300M with 45,000 miles on it. I just replaced a steering > pinion gear for $650.00. Has anybody else had a problem with this? It started > out with a lot of freeplay in the wheel when going down the road.

Response:

No.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2001 Chrysler 300M with 45,000 miles on it. I just replaced a steering > pinion gear for $650.00. Has anybody else had a problem with this? It started > out with a lot of freeplay in the wheel when going down the road.

Response:

i have done 4 in the last 6 months – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 2001 Chrysler 300M with 45,000 miles on it. I just replaced a steering > pinion gear for $650.00. Has anybody else had a problem with this? It started > out with a lot of freeplay in the wheel when going down the road.

Response:

> i have done 4 in the last 6 months > I just replaced a steering pinion gear for $650.00

Is gear failure related to how much wheel-turning is done when the car isn’t moving?  Say, lots of parallel parking or close-quarter parking-lot parking?

Response:

hell i don’t know,hell don’t care as long as they keep paying the bill – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i have done 4 in the last 6 months > > I just replaced a steering pinion gear for $650.00 > Is gear failure related to how much wheel-turning is done when the car > isn’t moving?  Say, lots of parallel parking or close-quarter > parking-lot parking?

Response:

> I have a 2001 Chrysler 300M with 45,000 miles on it. I just replaced a steering > pinion gear for $650.00. Has anybody else had a problem with this? It started > out with a lot of freeplay in the wheel when going down the road.

You might want to check at the 300M ezBoard.  There have been some threads by people that had to replace the rack and pinion (one recent thread – within the last 3 months – I believe).  Unfortunately all ezBoard search engines suck really bad, so you might be best to start a new thread – maybe someone can answer you directly or point you to a recent appropriate thread.  I think that you’ll find that this particular problem is not unheard of, but is not rampant.  Some people have problems with the inner tie rod bushings (connect the tie rods to the rack) wearing out that can cause similar problems – I’d certainly rule that out before replacing the rack (though it sounds like you’ve already done it). Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

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I have a 2001 Chrysler 300M with 45,000 miles on it. I just replaced a steering pinion gear for $650.00. Has anybody else had a problem with this? It started out with a lot of freeplay in the wheel when going down the road.

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Have owned a 300M since they reappeared in 1999 Model – now have 50,000 miles and no such problem.  Only problem was the electric window which I fixed myself. And a transmission problem early on which Chrysler fixed.  Steering pinion gear should last much much longer –

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2001 Chrysler 300M with 45,000 miles on it. I just replaced a steering > pinion gear for $650.00. Has anybody else had a problem with this? It started > out with a lot of freeplay in the wheel when going down the road.

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No.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2001 Chrysler 300M with 45,000 miles on it. I just replaced a steering > pinion gear for $650.00. Has anybody else had a problem with this? It started > out with a lot of freeplay in the wheel when going down the road.

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i have done 4 in the last 6 months – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 2001 Chrysler 300M with 45,000 miles on it. I just replaced a steering > pinion gear for $650.00. Has anybody else had a problem with this? It started > out with a lot of freeplay in the wheel when going down the road.

Response:

> i have done 4 in the last 6 months > I just replaced a steering pinion gear for $650.00

Is gear failure related to how much wheel-turning is done when the car isn’t moving?  Say, lots of parallel parking or close-quarter parking-lot parking?

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hell i don’t know,hell don’t care as long as they keep paying the bill – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i have done 4 in the last 6 months > > I just replaced a steering pinion gear for $650.00 > Is gear failure related to how much wheel-turning is done when the car > isn’t moving?  Say, lots of parallel parking or close-quarter > parking-lot parking?

Response:

> I have a 2001 Chrysler 300M with 45,000 miles on it. I just replaced a steering > pinion gear for $650.00. Has anybody else had a problem with this? It started > out with a lot of freeplay in the wheel when going down the road.

You might want to check at the 300M ezBoard.  There have been some threads by people that had to replace the rack and pinion (one recent thread – within the last 3 months – I believe).  Unfortunately all ezBoard search engines suck really bad, so you might be best to start a new thread – maybe someone can answer you directly or point you to a recent appropriate thread.  I think that you’ll find that this particular problem is not unheard of, but is not rampant.  Some people have problems with the inner tie rod bushings (connect the tie rods to the rack) wearing out that can cause similar problems – I’d certainly rule that out before replacing the rack (though it sounds like you’ve already done it). Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

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Question:

HELP! We just got back from a Christmas vacation and were almost driven out of our minds with a very loud wind whistle at speeds over 50,  particularly with head or side winds blowing – which we encountered all the way to our destination! We could not listen to the radio or CDs because of the noise. We have a 2002 Honda Odyssey EX purchased in March 2002. The problem has always been with this vehicle (our 2000 Odyssey did not have the problem!) The whistle (read loud NOISE) is a flute-like "Whoooooooooooo" at what we estimate to be a pitch of about "G" above "Middle C" appearing to come from the driver’s pillar between the driver’s window and the windshield. As I said, it really gets going at speeds over 50 with a head or side wind. The only way we could get to stop was to open the driver’s window about 2". Not too good in cold weather. I have tried duct tape over almost all possible cracks and crevasses along the door opening, side-view mirror, and under the hood on that side of the car – all to no avail. Has anyone had a similar problem? Were you able to fix it? I’m sure the local Honda dealer would have a field day with this problem! I’ll try to stay away from them if at all possible! Jim W

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>We have a 2002 Honda Odyssey EX purchased in March 2002. The problem >>has always been with this vehicle (our 2000 Odyssey did not have the >>problem!) >>The whistle (read loud NOISE) is a flute-like "Whoooooooooooo" at what >>we estimate to be a pitch of about "G" above "Middle C" appearing to >>come from the driver’s pillar between the driver’s window and the >>windshield. >>As I said, it really gets going at speeds over 50 with a head or side >>wind. The only way we could get to stop was to open the driver’s >>window about 2". Not too good in cold weather. > the rubber moulding around the windshield is known for this. put >masking tape over it and see if it cures it. if it does get some trim >adhesive, cut the inner lip off and glue it down. >  good idea not taking it to the dealer, the don’t like dealing with >those, it’s always a sticky pain in the ass. >                Chip > Chip, > Today is about 85 here in Hendersonville, NC! Pretty warm for the 3rd > of July.

You’ve discovered the secret to time travel?  ;)

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> We have a 2002 Honda Odyssey EX purchased in March 2002. The problem > has always been with this vehicle (our 2000 Odyssey did not have the > problem!) > The whistle (read loud NOISE) is a flute-like "Whoooooooooooo" at what > we estimate to be a pitch of about "G" above "Middle C" appearing to > come from the driver’s pillar between the driver’s window and the > windshield. > As I said, it really gets going at speeds over 50 with a head or side > wind. The only way we could get to stop was to open the driver’s > window about 2". Not too good in cold weather.

  the rubber moulding around the windshield is known for this. put masking tape over it and see if it cures it. if it does get some trim adhesive, cut the inner lip off and glue it down.    good idea not taking it to the dealer, the don’t like dealing with those, it’s always a sticky pain in the ass.                  Chip

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have a 2002 Honda Odyssey EX purchased in March 2002. The problem > has always been with this vehicle (our 2000 Odyssey did not have the > problem!) > The whistle (read loud NOISE) is a flute-like "Whoooooooooooo" at what > we estimate to be a pitch of about "G" above "Middle C" appearing to > come from the driver’s pillar between the driver’s window and the > windshield. > As I said, it really gets going at speeds over 50 with a head or side > wind. The only way we could get to stop was to open the driver’s > window about 2". Not too good in cold weather. >  the rubber moulding around the windshield is known for this. put >masking tape over it and see if it cures it. if it does get some trim >adhesive, cut the inner lip off and glue it down. >   good idea not taking it to the dealer, the don’t like dealing with >those, it’s always a sticky pain in the ass. >                 Chip

Chip, Today is about 85 here in Hendersonville, NC! Pretty warm for the 3rd of July. Anyway, my wife said why don’t you fire up the leaf blower and play wind-tunnel with the car. She sat inside and I hefted the (electric) blower hrer and there around the offending area. I was just about to give up when I while I was blowing at the side of the driver’s pillar, I saw the rubber moulding start to flutter and my wife started to make frantic hand signals. I had foud something, but the main culprit was about 6" higher up. When I moved the air stream up, we found the "G" above "Middle C" Whooooooooo. Now that I see the location I also see what you mean about cutting off the inner lip. It would be Very difficult to try to "glue" the edge of strip down and get the inner flap in place at the same time. Did you just lift the outter edge of the strip and reach in with x-acto knife and cut off the inner flap?  Let me know the details if you would. I very much appreciate your answering my call for HELP! Yo did good! Happy New Year from two NOW very happy Odyssey owners!!!! Jim & Mage

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> HELP! We just got back from a Christmas vacation and were almost > driven out of our minds with a very loud wind whistle at speeds over > 50,  particularly with head or side winds blowing – which we > encountered all the way to our destination! We could not listen to the > radio or CDs because of the noise. > We have a 2002 Honda Odyssey EX purchased in March 2002. The problem > has always been with this vehicle (our 2000 Odyssey did not have the > problem!) > The whistle (read loud NOISE) is a flute-like "Whoooooooooooo" at what > we estimate to be a pitch of about "G" above "Middle C" appearing to > come from the driver’s pillar between the driver’s window and the > windshield. > As I said, it really gets going at speeds over 50 with a head or side > wind. The only way we could get to stop was to open the driver’s > window about 2". Not too good in cold weather. > I have tried duct tape over almost all possible cracks and crevasses > along the door opening, side-view mirror, and under the hood on that > side of the car – all to no avail. > Has anyone had a similar problem? Were you able to fix it? >http://www.odyclub.com

Thanks for the heads up on the Odyssey Club Web site! Chip’s suggestion did the trick. Happy New Year! Jim

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Question:

Zack and the family visited a photographer yesterday. They have the photos on a CD. Here are a few, not in this e-mail, but in the next. I am sending this first as a warning: the next e-mail is 3.3 meg, and will probably take a while to bring in. It will be worth it, though, I promise. Love, Chuck

Response:

> Zack and the family visited a photographer yesterday. They have the photos > on a CD. Here are a few, not in this e-mail, but in the next. I am sending > this first as a warning: the next e-mail is 3.3 meg, and will probably take > a while to bring in. It will be worth it, though, I promise. > Love, > Chuck

Who’s ….Zack? dw

Response:

Disregard. He’s my grandson. Had the wrong window open. Freep

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Zack and the family visited a photographer yesterday. They have the photos > on a CD. Here are a few, not in this e-mail, but in the next. I am sending > this first as a warning: the next e-mail is 3.3 meg, and will probably take > a while to bring in. It will be worth it, though, I promise. > Who’s ….Zack? > dw

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> Disregard. He’s my grandson. Had the wrong window open.

Glad to place a name with a handle, though Mike

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yeah… ironically, that’s not my real name, either. It’s what my great-aunt-in-law calls me, for reasons that aren’t that interesting. Anyway, Freep

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Disregard. He’s my grandson. Had the wrong window open. > Glad to place a name with a handle, though > Mike

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > yeah… ironically, that’s not my real name, either. It’s what my > great-aunt-in-law calls me, for reasons that aren’t that interesting. > Anyway, > Freep >>Disregard. He’s my grandson. Had the wrong window open. >Glad to place a name with a handle, though >Mike

So, …is Zack playin’ guitar yet? ;^) dw "All children are born artists, most folks just grow out of it." – Diz

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Funny you should ask. Although he is only 2, and 9 months, he has had a guitar for a year now. He was so fascinated by my playing that his folks got him a toy, but functional, electric last Christmas. He loves it. You can be sure, when he’s old enough, I’ll be getting him one of those mini Strats. Freep

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> yeah… ironically, that’s not my real name, either. It’s what my > great-aunt-in-law calls me, for reasons that aren’t that interesting. > Anyway, > Freep >>>Disregard. He’s my grandson. Had the wrong window open. >>Glad to place a name with a handle, though >>Mike > So, …is Zack playin’ guitar yet? > ;^) > dw > "All children are born artists, most folks just grow out of it." – Diz

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Question:

Hi, Just like to hear about people’s experience in using the factory (honda) car alarm/security vs. after market systems (eg. alpine, clifford, etc.)?? I hv a 2003 model.. What are the pro’s and con’s of using honda/factory vs. aftermarket? cheers. w./vancouver-bc

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> Hi, > Just like to hear about people’s experience in using the factory (honda) car > alarm/security vs. after market systems (eg. alpine, clifford, etc.)?? > I hv a 2003 model.. What are the pro’s and con’s of using honda/factory vs. > aftermarket? > cheers. > w./vancouver-bc

Car is a US made Accord Aerodeck (Wagon?) 1995-6;  and I’m in the UK so … After some years of total reliability, my aftermarket alarm has started misbehaving (false alarms after say 20 minutes, not too bad, or in the middle of the night, awful!) and at least I can get it looked at without incurring the high overheads of the local Honda dealership.  Obtaining a new key/RC wasn’t financially painful, either.  However it’s fairly simple and while integrated with the door locks, it doesn’t automatically close the windows or electric roof as some models offer. — M Stewart Milton Keynes, UK www.megalith.freeserve.co.uk/oddimage.htm

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Have tried Alpine, works reliably. Have tried Viper, works unreliably.(IMO) Aftermarket alarms, like stereos, have more options, more features, lower prices, more selections, and always at the cutting edge of technology. They offer silent mode, etc. The annoying part on some factory alarms is the use of car horns instead of an alarm speaker. For instance, a quick beep from a car horn locks or unlocks car doors or sets the alarm. I just don’t get it. Some may disagree but it’s just not normal. I have boxful of rejected or broken Vipers, Diablo, Bulldog, Alarmcode (sp?) etc lying around. They’re bad memory except for some. Rick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Just like to hear about people’s experience in using the factory (honda) car > alarm/security vs. after market systems (eg. alpine, clifford, etc.)?? > I hv a 2003 model.. What are the pro’s and con’s of using honda/factory vs. > aftermarket? > cheers. > w./vancouver-bc

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> Hi, > Just like to hear about people’s experience in using the factory (honda) car > alarm/security vs. after market systems (eg. alpine, clifford, etc.)?? > I hv a 2003 model.. What are the pro’s and con’s of using honda/factory vs. > aftermarket?

I put an alarm in my truck.  I got it at Sam’s Club for $60 USD, it was an AudioVox model.  I installed it myself and got $65 off of my auto insurance premium – not too bad of a deal.

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